Webra carb info

Webra carb info (Full Version)

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Zpat -> Webra carb info (3/25/2003 6:34:01 AM)
This carb was mounted on a Webra 40. The box states it is a WEBE HIPER 40 - HIGH PERFORMANCE 40 - TN CARBURATOR W/MUFFLER. The engine was bought new. The carb never seem to seat fully in the crankcase but at the time I just overlooked it completely. After mounting the engine in a plane I found it was very tempermental as far as fuel setting and decided it was just a new engine and needed some break in. I'm the kind of guy that breaks them in while flying. The engine ran great at high RPM but I throttle quite a bit practicing 3D flight. It was very sensitive in the transition period, which means it quit a lot as I throttled up. After destroying a second plane from this transition problem I then replaced the carb with one out a Magnum 36 that grenaded on me. I also installed a muffler plug in it just to slow it down. From that point forward the transition improved greatly and it still has plenty of power. The O-ring in this Magnum carb gave up and I'm having problems again. I've posted a picture of the carb that came with this engine and was wondering if anyone knows what it is and what all the screws are for. Screws are numbered.

MrMotor -> Webra TN Carb (3/25/2003 7:49:08 AM)
The screws are as follows #1 Idle stop screw #2 is a screw to keep the steel barrel from falling out of the carb. #3 is the low speed needle and finally #4 is the high (main) needle. The TN carb has been replaced by the TN II carb. The low needle will affect the high needle more than the high will affect the low needle.

Zpat -> Webra carb info (3/25/2003 7:21:06 PM)
MrMotor, Thanks for the reply. I was wondering if you had any experience in carb set up with one of these engine carb combos. I always had transition trouble with this set up and was wondering if I could fine tune it out. Any suggestions?

DerFly -> Webra carb info (3/26/2003 2:51:22 AM)
Be aware that the #2 screw is not just a barrel retainer but also influences the throttle lateral movement. This lateral movement has aprofound effect on the transition qualities. Screwing it in will give an effectively richer midrange/out-leaner. You will have to reset the idle mixture at any change of screw #2.

MrMotor -> Webra Carb (3/26/2003 4:32:48 AM)
Turning screw 2 out will only make it loose and it will fall out from vibration. DerFly is correct in that besides holding in the barrel it keys the in and out movement of the barrel as it rotates. That movement is NOT adjustable and screw 2 needs to be tight. After much running the end of the screw will wear from vibration and removing the shim from under the head will allow the screw to turn in another 1/4 turn to a less worn spot.

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