BTerry

My Feedback: (8)

Tim,

Bob will certainly take care of you. However you shouldn't expect this to be warranty work.

Luckily the parts are relatively inexpensive.

Another option would be to have Ralph Cunningham take a look, but you probably still need a new case front and possibly rear half.

Brett

nedyob

My Feedback: (67)

Hi Bob,
I have the old style of motor mount (not the stand off type) What size socket head screws are used with the old stye mount, and how long are the newer stand offs that come with the new DL 50's
Also how can I tell what version on DL50 engine do I have, mine came with my plane.
Thanks for the info.
NEDYOB

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

2"

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

The original alum. extruded mount came with 5mm screws, blind nuts, and flange nuts (for rear of front flanges).
The original mount is prone to stress fractures on the short flange/tabs. I would strongly encourage you to replace them with standoffs.
My newest standoffs from DL are 2.5" long, both ends tapped for 5mm.

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

Oops. it's indeed 2-1/2". I needed 2-1/4" for my EF Extra 300.

I have a brand new muffler. PM me if you need one and I'll ship it to you for the shipping price only.

NUTNDUN

I was able to talk my wife into taking a short video of my tuning job on the yak. I wanted to see what ya's thought. Seems like it is good and it seems to me to have great instant transition. It is idling right around 1600 and it peaked at 6870 on the 22 x 8 TBM prop.



I dunno how to imbed the youtube video in the post so here is the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxJwjYvFtVY

NUTNDUN

I apologize for the crappy quality which got even worse once it was on youtube. Just wanted to get an idea of what everyone thought if it seems like it is tuned fairly decent.

krproton

Yea, you're right about the warranty. What was I thinking? The problem (bent crank or case) is obviously due to the crash.

Who's Ralph Cunningham? From Happy Days? (Sorry )

elderair

My Feedback: (29)

A cross between Ralph Malph and Ritchie Cunningham. RC Ignitions founder and engine repair guru to be more exact. I have read lots of post from RCI but have never used his service which from what I have read is very extensive.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

So it's been awhile since I was able to get out with the Yak / DL 50. Today reminded me why I love this engine. It does what it is supposed to do. Flew the snot outta that Yak (and yep, that is a MESSY proposition -) First flip restarts after a break between flights. Saaaweeettt.

The J'Tec Pitts (standard) is also doing very well. Nothing is leaking or has loosened, and it really has a very good tone to it. Definitely more "muffled" than stock, but if there is any power difference at all, it is nearly impossible to tell.

Some think this is an inferior engine....well, I guess there is a change someone could feel that way justifiably, but my experience has just reinforced what a great value these are.

Good times in summertime.

elderair

My Feedback: (29)

Bob, I will be in Norman at the USPS (NCED) training facility for a month of school starting Oct. 14th and might have to bring a plane or two with me to fly. What is typical weather that time of year and does your club allow ama guests on weekends. It looks like it is only about 55 miles from Norman to El Reno. I then have another 6 week class starting sometime in January. Probably not too comfortable flying that time of year?
Kent

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Kent - email me.

nedyob

My Feedback: (67)

Hello Bob,
How much would set of DL50 Stand off cost.??

NEDYOB

NUTNDUN

I couldn't get rid of the burbling. I am almost down to one turn out on the low needle and at 1 1/2 on the high and it is still burbling to beat the band. It does seem to be getting better and on the last flight it had instant transition just burbled like crap on any throttle setting less then 3/4. It may be the yak's last flight, it is stuck up in a tree about 50' high towards the end of the field. I was getting ready to come in for a landing and I was on the downline and banked and started coming around and thought for sure I was well far enough away from the trees and next thing you know it disappeared. Looks like it is in great shape though. The prop is still intact and the right wing was torn at the very tip. I have no idea how I am going to get it down. We are going to lowes and get a bunch of pvc pipe and maybe make a cradle for the top and a 10' ladder and try to lower it down LOL

NUTNDUN

We tried almost everything and couldn't get it. There is a branch stuck in the right wing and the tree just won't give it up. I am going back tomorrow with my bow and some rocks and some 30lb fishing line and some rope. She is coming out one way or another. It is just a little to high for me to be able to throw rocks over the tree limb. Local electrical contractor wants almost 300 bucks to come out with a boom truck but I'm not paying that much. I just want my stuff out of it and start a new one. I would still like to know why I was having the burbling issues.

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

Nothing. I'll ship them to you for shipping cost only. Mine are catching dust at the moment. Mail me martin _at_ ismiami _com

krproton

Well I talked to Bob at DL USA today.

He was really nice and took plenty of time to talk to me. Mostly I just listened.

He said the crankshaft on these things is pretty "bullet proof," and while it is possible the crank is bent, it is unlikely. But it is more possible that the case is tweaked, but even more probably just the bearing was damaged in my crash. So, I took what we felt was a small chance and I ordered just bearings and a new case (and a gasket set for putting it all back together). We have a puller at work that should work (hopefully), so I'll do the rebuild my self. Should be a pretty simple re build, so that's the tact I'm taking for now. We felt that because the engine ran well and seemed to be smooth, the crank was probably okay.

I'll post when I run the engine again.

Tim

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

That's good to see, Tim.... glad he visited with you and confirmed the crankcase suspicions....be sure to post back (and maybe even a "how to" picture set of the repair here?) and let us know.

krproton

Hey, good idea (pics).

Will do.

Tim

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Maybe even a "procedure" (since that's what you do?).... I know even though I never WANT to know it, we probably all SHOULD know how to do it.... whatchathink?

krproton

Hi Bob.

Well, here's my "procedure." [sm=wink_smile.gif]

Start with a clean work area. Have a few paper towels on hand and get the outside of the engine reasonably clean.

Remove the cylinder bolts. Carefully slide off the cylinder. On mine, the gasket let go nicely and could probably be re used, but I'm not going to and most experts would probably tell you not to.

Next, remove the bolts holding the cases together. Note that the case bolts are longer than the cylinder bolts (note to self). On mine, they "cracked" apart withoug much effort.

That's as far as I can get for now. I need a deep-well socket wrench for the prop hub nut. Anybody know what size? Looks like 1/2" or 13mm. Looks like the same size as the spark plug, but my plug socket isn't quite deep enough. Hope I can get one at the hardware store.

The piston, cylinder and ring look great. Considerable carbon on top of the piston, but not alarming. Combustion chamber is pretty clean. Still see the cross-hatch marks in the cylinder.

Ring is nice and loose.

Everything else spic-and-span.

Hope to borrow a puller from work tomorrow and remove the hub.

Parts should be on the way.

Oh yea, there is no gasket between the case halves, but there appears to be some sort of sealer - nothing heavy like RTV or gasket goop, just some light, clear film. Anybody know what that would be?

elderair

My Feedback: (29)

I don't know what they used but I would use Hondabond or similar anerobic sealant purchased from your local motorcycle shop used in case assembly when no gasket is used. Also , a piston stop tool that threads in to the spark plug hole would be handy. I have one for glow engines and I have one for RCJ8 size spark plugs but don't have one for the CM 6 threads on these engines. I guess I might be making or buying one of those.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Tim you are correct in the size of the socket. I checked on one of my DL's and either would work. The 1/2" fits best and the 13mm is just slightly loose. Both were 3/8" drive deep sockets.
Doug

shawn45

My Feedback: (77)

Hey Tim,

I think if you heat your casing in oven about 280 degree, 10 min. bearings would pop right out.

Good luck

nedyob

My Feedback: (67)

MSTAM1971,
Sent you a e-mail re: the stand off's
NEDYOB