skywarrior
Posts: 96
Joined: 3/8/2002
From: TWICKENHAM, , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline
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Alan,
I decided to change the colour scheme as I like a "Hi Viz" scheme to all my models since we tend to fly on hazy or grey days here in UK and my eyes are doing well but not the young ones I was born with.
I started by wet and drying ( 400/600 very wet ) to remove only the decals from the booms. The original clear coat is so hard it would take forever to remove it back to the glass cloth surface by this method anyway. This removed the decals and gave a key to the surface for the colour, I then did the same to the fuselage.
I then sprayed a light coat of "Mipa" (or equivalent) self etching primer to the glass surface to give the colour a surface to key to .
This was semi transparent and therefore a small weight gain.
I use "Basecoat colour" for most of my models by "Mipa". This system allows you to use the basecoat colour with "Mipa" two pack thinners (thinned to a spray consistency) which evaporates almost immediately and is lighter than two pack and much easier to spray on curved surfaces of fuselages etc. (for the likes of my kind) without droops and runs. However it is inherent that you will eventually seal the everything in two pack clear coat lacquer, decal's and all. This can be either matt, semi matt, or glossy which I have discovered you can polish with a 3m polishing compound after wet and drying (very wet) with 2000 grit paper. Then spray the clear coat and leave for two days minimum on a hot day or four days at least in our UK winter. This assumes you don't have anything but Mother Natures outdoors for this sort of thing.
I stripped the wings and glassed them with acrylic resin (NOT epoxy resin as this brings my face out in a mild rash so I don't use it unless necessary). Having glassed the surface I brushed "Mipa" primer filler thickly all over the surface. ( you are going to remove 90% of it hopefully) I then flatted it down wet from 400 to 800 to 1500... using a guide coat of aerosol sprayed matt black and a 3m rubber sanding block . Do this towards the end of the process when you feel you are getting to a stage of having removed most filler but not in danger of sanding the glass cloth. This sanding block and guide coat is IMPERATIVE to see where the highs and lows are and without it you are shooting in the dark. This technique is used by car finishers and it is surprising with a little time how effective it works. You may have to fill the very low spots (indicated by the black spray paint still remaining) with acrylic "Mipa " filler as needed but again the thing is to remove as much as possible before hitting the glass cloth and leaving a smooth surface. I then floated on a light almost semi transparent coat of primer filler (NOT etch primer as this is on glass cloth) for the base colour coat to sit on. Spray on the basecoat and mask the relative areas and apply decals. Lightly finish with 2000 very wet.
Now spray on the clear coat laqueur and when really hardened (see above) flat off with 200 paper very wet.
A 3M polishing sponge with 3M polishing compound on an electric drill a few days later and the whole thing becomes worthwhile.
It took me 2 1/2 weeks to do the Elan to my mediocre standard so beware its not a thing to do for next weekend !!
I suspect I added 400 grams to the whole thing, who knows I am not going to weigh it, all I know is I had weight on my mind when doing it, so what is done is done.
That's it really, its my way and I am not a car sprayer or finisher, its my method which works for me. I am very happy to accept helpful tips and I am sure the professionals will have many different opinions.
Alan this is a very nice plane and I liked flying it and given my flying skills that means nice and easy. I like easy at my time of life !
Regards
David
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Jets >> RE: Elan Has Arrived! 
RE: Elan Has Arrived! - 
you cant tell the lens is overlapped from a foot away, while I understand what your trying to achieve, perhaps a bit anal as you said.
