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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/10/2008 12:12:57 AM   
mad web tv scientist


 

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deleted mistake

< Message edited by mad web tv scientist -- 4/10/2008 12:19:39 AM >

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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/10/2008 1:00:22 AM   
derek2005


 

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I was thinking about changing the tail and vertical stab on my J-3. The elevator especially just seems to give up if I do a hard dive. I wonder if making a built up balsa horizontal and vertical stab would help. I have plenty of building experience and I think I could make the stabs a bit more sturdy but I don't know if the weight difference would be too much. I actually thought of sort of scratch building a copy of this cub by disecting my crashed fuse into foam disks and creating a balsa representation by recreating these disks and using stringers and some sheeting to finish the fuse. I think I would keep the foam wing since it is so easy to fix, but I would build the tail section out of balsa.

Waddayathink?


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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/10/2008 5:00:39 AM   
mad web tv scientist


 

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With your determination and demonstrated capabilities I have no doubt about your ability to create a viable aft fuselage and empennage structure that can perform up to your expectations.

I have reinforced the rudder/vertical stabilizer and the horizontal stab/elevator with carbon fiber tow and a six pound test "diamond shaped" Berkley Fireline fishing line bracing system that is very much like full scale. This system ties the horizontal and vertical stab together and should provide all the strength I should ever need. 1/4 ounce of carbon fiber reinforced balsa structure was added to the inside of the motor cowling and this brought the CG up to the minimum recommended stability point.

For the benefit of beginning modelers my objective with the Cub is to keep modifications to a minimum that can be useful for improved performance. Besides that, I really like the looks of this little bird and don't want to change its appearance significantly.

Looking forward to learn what you end up doing.

madwebtvscientist

____________________________________________
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Modeling's rendezvous with destiny will surely be unstoppable when something greater than the narcissistic pleasure of an esoteric chosen few is adopted in modeling.

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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/10/2008 6:19:23 AM   
HEMICUDA


 

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Hello out there,
Just maidened my Flyzone cub today (first time flyer) It went like this: Crash- fix prop shaft, crash - glue nose back together,
crash - glue rear stabilinzer, crash - glue main wing back together and fix shaft again and, Crash - fix shaft again and reglue
rear stabilizer. First crash was my fault - ASSUMED I charged the battery all the way ... NOT!!! The motor shut off the minute
the plane left my hand. Duh! After that the plane didn't hold up to my inexperince. I had the same problem as stated earlier
in this thread, the metal "clip" that joins the 2 halves of elevator seperated and down she came after running the circuit twice.
This bird is also nose heavy. It couldn't rog because the ballfield needed dragged so hand launched. There was very little
wind and she just wouldn't stay in the air so I called it a day. Once I learn on this PIG I'll buy the replacement parts and
make it pretty again, the it's on to the ELECTRISTAR that I bought before the cub and decided I better learn on something
else 1st. Oh, I simm on the FMS. And there is no CLub near me and the one in the next county over lost there field and
said I have to be an AMA member and their member before they would help. Whew, Any suggestions???

(in reply to mad web tv scientist)
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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/10/2008 12:29:18 PM   
derek2005


 

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Hemicuda,

I had a similar experience when I first flew this plane. The first two times I tried flying it, I crashed pretty bad. The first time, I had to fix both sides of the wing, a cracked fuse, a broken prop, bend shaft, shattered cowling. I just kept fixing and thinking about what I did wrong. My biggest problem was using too much elevator too soon. This plane in stock form does not have the power to pull out of problems. Once I learned to control my climb rate and make sure I was up to speed, I found this to be a very easy plane to fly. The CG was not correct out of the box on mine, so please check that. It can make all the difference in the world. I usually hand launch as well. Make sure your battery is charged well, and do not toss at too much of an angle. Just barely above parallel is enough. With a sturdy toss, it will get up to speed and ready to climb in about 15 feel. Just keep the elevator level until it starts to pull up a bit on its own. If it starts to descend, just add very small elevator imputs. If you put it in a stall at this elevation, you will crash. I try to stay off of the rudder [once in the air (if ROG)] until I have decent altitude. The rudder has a big affect on the orientation of the wings. If a wing gets too low and you do not have speed or altitute, you will crash.

Flight tips:

1. Check CG, battery power, control linkages, and control movements.
2. Perform a range check 100' away with the antenna down. Make sure to do this with the motor on as well.
3. Hand launch:
Always into the wind. This plane does not like cross wind or down wind takeoffs.
Power up and make sure you feel the thrust pretty good
Give it an almost level toss and toss it pretty good.
Do not overdo any rudder or elevator imputs at this altitude: you will crash
Use the ailerons to keep it level
Once the plane is flying on its own power, start to add elevator and it will climb.
4. Do not try to climb quickly. A gentle ascent is best.
5. Gain a good amount of altitude before trying too much.
6. Once up and running, get a feel for stall speed and practice approaches.
7. Do not try to land if you are uncomfortable. Go around again.
8. Same rules about rudder apply during landing. Try to use the ailerons to keep it level. Do not drop a wing.
9. Do not give up. You will be rewarded with a fun plane to fly.

I was very frustrated after my first few attempts, but I couldn't wipe the smile off my face on my first successful flight. Then I crashed a few more times mostly due to using too much elevator on takeoff and structure failures due to previous crashes. Now I have a very beat up wing, new tail section and fuse, but the plane flies well and I really enjoy it. I have become confident enough to do some aerobatics at good altitude and I can land it just about anywhere I need to. I just started flying in January this year.

You will be fine too. Just keep trying.

(in reply to HEMICUDA)
       Post #: 55

RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/10/2008 10:04:25 PM   
mad web tv scientist


 

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HEMI, wow! What a story! You realize, of course, that no normal human being could possibly handle such trauma and still keep fighting.

Now that we know that you are fatally hooked and you WILL become a successful pilot as long as there is any strength at all left in your control thumbs, let us reason together and see if the collective wisdom of all of us Cub enthusiasts can be mutually beneficial.

derek may be right about using ailerons instead of rudder when flying near stall speed. My idea came from information about WWII carrier landings where ailerons are out on the ends of the wings as well as with light planes dealing with P-Factor on take off. The recommendations in these cases are to use rudder rather than ailerons to level the wings. But we have "strip ailerons" on our model Cubs that may be a whole different situation. Anyway, derek has more experience with the Cub than me and knows how to make it work for him. We both agree about hand launching and being sure to allow sufficient speed to build up on ROG take offs before easing back on the elevator.

Light larger diameter wheels could help your ROG situation as discussed earlier. You may have to add weight (modeling clay works great for this) to the tail, nose, or a wing tip to get the plane to fly right. Since you are obviously a committed modeler you might seriously consider 7.4 volt LiPo batteries weighing around only two (2) ounces that can help provide a very useful weight savings and obvious flying performance advantage as well as less "hard landing" (?) damage.

Hopefully, more Piper pilots will join in and share their ideas with us new Piper people.

madwebtvscientist

____________________________________________
Modeling Promoting Blog:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=blog&memid=266748


Modeling's rendezvous with destiny will surely be unstoppable when something greater than the narcissistic pleasure of an esoteric chosen few is adopted in modeling.

(in reply to HEMICUDA)
       Post #: 56

RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/11/2008 2:18:39 AM   
derek2005


 

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I definately am no expert on flying or cubs, but for me, staying off of the rudder as much as possible once barely in the air has reduced the number of crashes I have experienced. The rudder yaw? if that is the right term, seem significant with this plane. The ailerons do not have much authority, and therefore, do not get you into trouble. I may be off base on using as little rudder as possible at low altitude, but it works for me with this plane. On my mini-pulse, I can use the rudder more as the plane does not lean as much. Once a wing drops, you are in trouble if you do not have speed and altitude.

Just my personal experience, not to be taken as fact.

Happy flying.

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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/11/2008 5:18:22 AM   
HEMICUDA


 

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Thanks you guys, good info is always music to my ears. I don't think i even used the rudder and definitely didn't use too much elevator
as it rarely went up. Maybe i didn't launch hard enough but I definitely did throw up too much. I did range check to 50 paces and made sureall controls were correctly moving. I have much patience but my wife doesn't. I have 3 sets of batts for the cub and the electristar waiting in the wings has 2 sets (4) so I have close to $600 in these 2 planes so it's fly or die trying! Other than ordering xtra props and maybe a new motor if I need it I'm pretty tapped out until i get better.

I actually learned a little basics this winter when a got a XPV for XMAS. It was only a 2 ch and not much learning curve. After much glue, tape and toothpicks( yes, I said toothpicks!) and a penny taped in a sweet spot on the right wing I made the Wright Bros. proud.
I could even ROG as it came with wheels. I saw several vids on you tube on these XPV's and I was doing alot better that most of them.
So I figured with more controls offered on the above models it would be easier than a 2 ch with more/less thrust for up and down and 2 motors for skid/steer for left and right. I was wrong... but I'm goin to keep at it.

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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/11/2008 5:20:10 AM   
HEMICUDA


 

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Correction.. that is supposed to be I didn't throw it at too high of an angle.

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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/12/2008 11:11:07 PM   
derek2005


 

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Make the wind and snow stop. It is April for goodness sake. I want to fly! AAAAArrrrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhhhh!

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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/15/2008 6:28:04 AM   
Talent5



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Hey All fellow Cubers,
Just bought my first Cub from Tower Hobbies and read all the inputs from everyone. Just like to know the best set-up for the J-3. I am a seasoned beginner and I have a few months for glow trainers under my belt before the winter. Meaning I have bought and fly 4 glow trainers. All are still flying, except my first RIP. So any input you have is greatly appreciated. I currently have a E-Flite Power 10 Brushless Outrunner 1100KV, E-Flite 40 amp sensorless brushless ESC, and E-Flite 3S 11.1V 2100mAh Li-Po battery (20C {42Amp} Maximum Continuous Discharge) would this be a good set-up for the Cub? Hate to say it but it''s from my E-Flite Brio which is in the garage in ICU. Brothers of Flight, I share scars of your failed flights & success like if they are my own. Please help me get this sweet bird in the air.

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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/18/2008 1:12:18 AM   
derek2005


 

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Talent 5,

You shouldn't have any probles flying this with your experience. I don't know a lot about electric motors as of yet. The power 10 might be a bit much for this, but I am not sure. I have thought about taking my PNP 450 out of my mini pulse and putting it in the J-3. Maybe others can give you some advice on motor choice. Earlier in this thread there is a discussion about motor choice, but I think that gentleman used a tower pro motor.

If you fly stock, you will find the J-3 to have a lack of power, so do not try to climb too fast. In stock form, this plane is great for lazin' around the field. Some people think it comes in a bit fast. It was my first plane, so I don't know about that. I felt fine coming it.

Let us know if you have any other specific questions.

(in reply to Talent5)
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RE: Hobbico FlyZone® Piper J-3 Cub RTF - 4/18/2008 3:23:10 AM   
mad web tv scientist


 

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Talent, great to see you having fun with the Cub.

Most of the successful Cub flyers on this thread seem to have been flying in "nice dense cool air." I found that in 40 degree weather that my significantly lighter Lipo batteries allow the Cub to fly at about the same speed and climb at about the same rate as my modified simi symmetrical airfoil wing Accipiter Badius motor powered gliders that I use to train new pilots. However, in 70 degree weather the J-3