Right smack in the middle of the canopy opening. I made a simple shelf and servo mounts with 1/4 x 3/8 basswood and some light ply scrap. Make sure you leave clearance to get to the wing bolts. I'm now hot gluing the wing bolts into the wings and using wing nuts ont he inside on most of my two piece wing planes. No tools and quick and easy.
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Mike (Salmon) Pilkenton, Chief Slab Designer Ohio Model Planes, Team OMP Captain
Posts: 50
Joined: 2/16/2006 From: East Wenatchee,
WA, USA Status: offline
Thats a good idea on the wing bolts It was a pain on the fusion arf to get the wings bolted togeather for me The fusion died last weekend did a wall and the wings folded it was a slow speed wall into a hover and the none engine side wing folded tore the wing tube right threw the wing panel lost a formeco lithium battery in the process oh well on to the hybrid when ever I finish it.
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/10/2004 From: Daytona,
FL, USA Status: offline
Built my Edge a little different. Put an 805 in the center and ran an arrow shaft for my Rudder. Not a hard 3-D flyer so this works for me. Have 645's and a DA 50. This is by far my favorite plane. It will do anything you ask. Lands slower than I can walk. Liked the flames on the OMP Web site so much I had to have one.
All hand cut monokote. We used templates made of poster board. Draw your design and cut them out. Then use a sharp #11 blade and cut the covering out using the templates.
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Mike (Salmon) Pilkenton, Chief Slab Designer Ohio Model Planes, Team OMP Captain
I made a mistake by using one of the 4 48" long hardwood wingspars to cut a piece for my stabilisor whereas I should have used the shorter length stick for it. Should I now join the two half sticks I have? Will this joint be strong enough to form the wing spar? The problem is in Europe I do not find inch sized hardwood sticks and I guess just sending one over from the US is not very doable either?
Paul, you really do not want to splice wing spars but it is doable as long as you double up the spare at teh joint and use a good epoxy. Put the splice as far outboard as you can and splics using an angled splice. Better to get a new spare. If you have a table saw then cut your own from larger stock if you can find some good basswood or spruce.
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Mike (Salmon) Pilkenton, Chief Slab Designer Ohio Model Planes, Team OMP Captain
thanks I will try to find a solution for the spar.
I am about to order my servos from Servocity. They offer HS 5955TG, 5998TG and 5995TG all at the same price. Is there any reason why not to take the highest torque servo 5995TG which also is the fastests? As they are all sold at same price I would just take 5 of these, 2 for ailerons, 2 for elevators and Z1 for rudder. Good choice ?
The 5995 is a robot servo and rated at 7.4 volts. It is really the same as the 5955 but with different voltage input. Do not use for airplanes. Use the 5955TGs. One for each surface will be fine.
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Mike (Salmon) Pilkenton, Chief Slab Designer Ohio Model Planes, Team OMP Captain
I made the same mistake whit the spar, so I saw both ends of the spar under an angle of 45° drill a hole of 2mm through both ends perpendicular, then put a piece off 2mm carbon rod in, glue all together whit epoxy.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Profile and Fun Flying Planes >> OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum >> HYBRID EDGE RUDDER SERVO 
HYBRID EDGE RUDDER SERVO - 
RE: HYBRID EDGE RUDDER SERVO - 
Thanks for sharing the pics with us.
