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Joined: 2/21/2007 From: East Haddam, CT, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: BobHH
Nic, you forgot to mention that one must make engine and flying noises when you pre-assemble the model this way. It will insure the model will fly properly!!!!!
Posts: 898
Joined: 2/21/2007 From: East Haddam, CT, USA Status: offline
Last night I did a bit more work. While the top sheeting is off, it is a good time to plan your pushrods. Because the Perigee rudder hinge line does not extend straight, I purchased an offset control horn. That will bring the pushrod connection in line with the hinge. The upper exit is for that. SInce the elevators are quite large, they will not need a lot of throw, and I got long controls horns for them. I will be using split elevator pushrods, so an exit on each side.
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Joined: 2/21/2007 From: East Haddam, CT, USA Status: offline
And my final work of the night - sheeting in place, another T-pin forest to hold the curves, and I have stuck the whole mess inside the paint booth to exhaust the fumes. I actually like the smell of Ambroid, but the wifey, well, you know...............
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Nic, looks great! Now just break out the sanding chair and the ice tea!!! And theres a LOT of sanding to do on the fuselage.
Nic, my wife does not like the smell of Ambroid or dope either. I think it smells great! Kind of makes you think of the good old days!! Monokote stinks!!!!
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Joined: 2/21/2007 From: East Haddam, CT, USA Status: offline
So tonight (so far) I have mixed some 20-min epoxy and sealed the tank compartment, and put a thin line against all the bulkheads. No biggie. Also, last night my son & I replaced his connecting rod. Here's a shot of the damaged one. The lower joint was shredded.
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Joined: 2/21/2007 From: East Haddam, CT, USA Status: offline
I must say, I am impressed with the balsa selection that William (PassTime) did with this short kit. The 1/4 stock for the nose and hatch is really lightweight stuff, better than I got by selecting from 3 hobby shops for the top sheeting. So here's how the real front stacks up, with my ply ring on top. The next shot is the kit top hatch, a base layer marked "hatch 2", cut out, and a top layer, which is 2 pieces, both marked "hatch 1"
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Joined: 2/21/2007 From: East Haddam, CT, USA Status: offline
TIP & TECHNIQUE TIME
Most of you probably have your own method of aligning the spinner with the nose, but here's how I do it. First, there's the basic pieces. Spinnner, nose ring, and engine, mounted in it's final place.
Next, I cut a few scraps of spacer. This time I'm using 3/32, in case I need thrust adjustments. I used to use 1/16 when I was sure of the engine. Then, you super glue the spacers to the ply ring, and then to the spinner backplate. Don't worry, you will cut them off and sand down later.
The final photo shows the assembly mounted onto the engine. Now you just build backwards. But that's for tomorrow.
< Message edited by WEDJ -- 12/22/2007 2:59:14 PM >
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Joined: 2/21/2007 From: East Haddam, CT, USA Status: offline
WHY I HATE COWLINGS
Some people seem to cut their wood just so, squared and flat, and there's their cowl, all nice and straight.
The Perigee tapers drastically toward the nose, so nothing is square. I think the photos are self-explainatory, I'm going to need lots of little pieces. Oh, it will look fine when finished, but a lot of sandpaper and putty are in order.
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Joined: 2/21/2007 From: East Haddam, CT, USA Status: offline
So today the wife went shopping, and I stayed home - Oh, gee, what to do? What's this? 60-grit sandpaper! Oh, joy.
Really got excited to see the sexy lines emerge. Did a lot on the cowling, too, but it has a ways to go. Also Fiberglassed the wing center section, and brought out the spackle. It does a great job of filling irregularities.
< Message edited by WEDJ -- 12/23/2007 12:44:18 PM >
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RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 
