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RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/1/2008 8:49:32 PM   
WEDJ



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Joined: 2/21/2007
From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: aerowoof

Hi,
I built one of the originals back in 72 and this sure brings back memmories.would like to do it again,did the plans come with the short kit?Since these are sold in lots of 3 is anyone else interested in buying one?


Yes, plans come with the short kit. I bought 3, sold 1 to Free Bird, and Dean Pappas has spoken for theother one. At the kit price, 3 is not really that much.

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       Post #: 151

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/3/2008 6:38:49 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
Joined: 2/21/2007
From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		I haven't posted in a couple of days because, well, there's not much left to do. Finish sanding with 320 grit, but you won't really see a difference in the photos.

I'm waiting for the LHS to get delivery of my covering material. Hopefully I will pick it up this w/e.

Sig Koverall for the wings (dyed yellow), Super Coverite for the body. Klass Kote epoxy paint. Original color scheme.

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       Post #: 152

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/4/2008 12:46:27 AM   
rainedave



Posts: 4962
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: offline 		What type of dye are you using? Will Rit work on polyester? I've been using Koverall for the last couple of years and love it.

David

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       Post #: 153

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/4/2008 1:07:00 AM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
Joined: 2/21/2007
From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		I'm hoping Rit will work. Otherwise I'm SOL, I think. Test patch is definitely in order, along with photos and conclusions. Stay tuned........

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       Post #: 154

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/4/2008 6:27:46 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
Joined: 2/21/2007
From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		Been reading up on dyes - Polyester itself does not dye. They described it as trying to dye a plastic bag. However, Koverall is polyester-BASED, so maybe it will work. I am also worried that the boiling water of the dye may shrink the fabric.

Plan B is to lightly spray yellow enamel on the inside part of the cloth.

Plan C is to paint the panels solid yellow.

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       Post #: 155

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/5/2008 9:04:22 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
Joined: 2/21/2007
From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		Went to the LHS today, because this came in! Great Planes 10 3/4 bubble canopy. Wouldn't look right without it.

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       Post #: 156

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/5/2008 9:08:03 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
Joined: 2/21/2007
From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		Well, it seems super coverite is discontinued. Koverall is problematic. So this morning I did a little internet surfing, and now have a NEW plan "A"

Wing - Solartex Vintage yellow. Iron-on fabric, semi-transparent (like silk, they say), and can be painted.
www.solarfilm.co.uk/solartex.html

Body - see below. Since I used to use Polyester & glass on the .60 PPs, this should be a stroll down memory lane, without the smell.

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< Message edited by WEDJ -- 1/7/2008 6:59:37 PM >

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       Post #: 157

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/6/2008 3:59:37 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
Joined: 2/21/2007
From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		OK, played with the glass cloth last night on the hatch, the first coat seems to be what I expected. This morning I put a second coat on, we'll see how it sets up.

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       Post #: 158

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/6/2008 4:15:43 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
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From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		Now it's time to get serious with the body. I cut a piece of cloth 42x9, it should do 1/2 the body. Lay it over the fuse, and start to paint the poly right through it. Do about a foot at a time, starting in the middle. The idea is to just stick the cloth to the wood, not do any filling. Use paper towels to blot up the excess. You want only enough to stick, the glass fibers should be very visible.

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< Message edited by WEDJ -- 1/7/2008 1:02:19 AM >

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       Post #: 159

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/6/2008 4:19:11 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
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From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		Don't worry about getting the cloth into every corner and crevace, like around the stab. If some wood is exposed, it will still be sealed by the poly, and primer and paint. This is unlike Monokote, where you have to cover every bit of wood. Besides, around the stab there will be epoxolite fillets later.

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       Post #: 160

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/6/2008 9:29:16 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
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From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		OK, now I'm ready to glass the left side. First, I lay and smooth the raw glass cloth. Notice it's not too smooth, that's not a problem, as you will see.

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       Post #: 161

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/6/2008 9:32:14 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
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From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		Next, I start in the middle with a patch of poly. You can see the 2 inch disposable brush. After brushing the poly on, I get as much as possible off with the paper towel.

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       Post #: 162

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/6/2008 9:34:49 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
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From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		Working towards the rear, but only on the sides now. Top and bottom will come later. Look close, you can see I missed the very rear lower fuse by about 1/8 inch. Like I said before, that's not a problem with this method.

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       Post #: 163

RE: PassTime Perigee Build thread - 1/6/2008 9:37:27 PM   
WEDJ



Posts: 875
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From: East Haddam, CT, USA
Status: offline 		Working up to the nose, all is nice and smooth. The glass cloth just clings to the surface, and can wrap around some pretty complex shapes, like this nose. If you do get a wrinkle that won't pull out, just slice and overlap it. Later on during the sanding process, that will disappear.

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       Post #: 164