RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs!   
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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/3/2008 5:42 AM   
BrazosRC


 

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How much slower can you make it with the gear ratios? I don't really want a crawler, but I would like my truck to be able to go about the speed of the CR-01 (faster than a crawler) and to climb stuff similarly... Seems like this should be possible with the M18MT or the LST-2?

Guess I should look at the Mini-Crawler... I had not really considered it...

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/3/2008 9:38 AM   
patatchim


 

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You can make the m18mt slow. Use a high pinion mixed with a high turn brushed motor or a low kv brushless motor. It will have plenty of torque. But it will get stuck on alot of things, high grass and it will be difficult to drive it.
What I know about the lst2 or mini baja compared to a m18mt:
- it´s bigger , really a monster truck -> higher ground clearance
- it´s slower
- heavier
- It has some problems, but all of them have.
If you like roaming around in all kind of terrains, I would definitely advise the mini lst2 / baja.
But for crawling ? Hum dunno it doesn´t have a suspension for climbing things... it can but not like a crawler.


Another Crawler to consider is the axial ax-10 rtr version. It comes with a pionion and spur gear set for faster speeds.

Not really crawlers, but from what I read on your post, all of these seem to fit in, a little faster than a crawler and with "almost same" climbing capability:

- HPI Wheely King, very nice monster truck, can be a rock crawler.
- Tamiya launch box, a lot of people like it.
- Tamiya Ford F350 High-Lift , expensive, great looks, good for roaming, i´ve saw some crawling with it.
- TAMIYA TXT-1, don´t really have an opinion about it, but it may interest you.

I hope this post it helps you to choose something!

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/5/2008 5:10 PM   
turtleis


 

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I own both a M18MT and a Mini LST2, so I'll list some personal observations. I don't race nor run my cars on nice tracks. I run them on forest service roads, logging roads, hiking trails, and wooded areas. To me, fast just means crash into trees harder, tumble down cliffs sooner, or stuck in 2 feet tall brush deeper.

First of all, the MLST2 is much bigger than the M18MT, and heavier. They don't look to be the same scale at all. Being bigger, though, means better ground clearance, so that's actually a good thing for me. The suspension also seems to be softer (but probably is just because the vehicle is much heavier), so it conforms to the deep ruts, small boulders, and big branches better. The steering servos are a joke. I'm tired of replacing the gears in it so I'm in the process of switching them to something better. I ruined a spur gear but I think that's because I forgot to adjust the slipper clutch. I bought the Losi viscous diff set but haven't installed it. Otherwise it's been durable. It's a great machine to bash with. It's not terribly fast. At first it feels like you're driving a giant SUV or van, but then you discover it's actually surprising easy to drive, and it does go where you point it.

The M18MT is light, so for me that means it gets tossed around a lot more by the boulders and branches. The ground clearance isn't as good so it skips over obstacles instead. Good thing the bottom is nice and flat though. It's also a bit faster than the MLST2 (I'm running the stock 370 motor, ESC, pinion, etc). Running on the trails, where as the MLST2 looks like it's running Baja, the M18MT looks like a hydroplane without the rooster tail, skipping over the top of everything. The suspension is also stiffer, relatively. If I lift a tire on the M18MT, it'll lift another tire first; where as the MLST2 will almost full flex the suspension first. The M18MT has good quality, and is much easier to work on. MLST2 feels very cluttered.

I actually like them both, but for different reasons. For my terrain, the MLST2 works slightly better. The M18MT has much better handling, but only when it can get all 4 tires on the ground. Currently I'm considering either a Axial A10 Scorpion ARTR or a Losi Mini Rock Crawler to complement the M18MT. They will be much slower and totally different though, so it really depends on your situation.

My 2 cents...


< Message edited by turtleis -- 9/5/2008 5:47 PM >


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/5/2008 6:54 PM   
DarkHorse



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good balanced info, thanks for posting .

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/5/2008 9:39 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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Some photos (more and bigger photos) of making the led lights:




Also got some bumper sets from TBRBasher (yes, you should get new screws), and i need to made a new LED holder (anyone has a milling machine, i can make some 3d)




And new ball-bearings from ABEC35


And i have one question, does someone has rear turnbuckle set?
How did you solve this problem?



< Message edited by alex.guzun -- 9/5/2008 9:43 PM >


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/5/2008 10:35 PM   
DarkHorse



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Very nice bearings

> How did you solve this problem?
That arm bolts to the under side of the rear diff box (hub block under side also) not the top side.

< Message edited by DarkHorse -- 9/5/2008 10:36 PM >


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/5/2008 10:55 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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i'm a idiot sure.. it's too late here, i need to sleep

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/6/2008 6:23 AM   
DarkHorse



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No worries.
The parts design have a lot of symmetry and can swap parts as the diffs are the same front and back which is handy cause if parts get a bit punished then they can be swapped with their better condition counterpart. I can often get confused when looking at the hub suspension blocks and upper arm that appear a distinct left and right but can be interchangeable if inverted .

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/6/2008 3:50 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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Guys, please.. where can i find all those screws need for m18mt but not from xray.
There is a http://www.fastener-express.com/ but they don't have 2.2 screws

i lost my micro servo saver screw and it seams to be m2.2, can't find any at home. Only m2 or m2.5 (ISO)

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/7/2008 4:23 AM   
patatchim


 

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@alex.guzun what are you using for driving the leds?

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/9/2008 10:14 AM   
alex.guzun


 

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Here is a LED Driver


Result - 2 parallel LEDs.
It is connected to 3rd empty ch in rx, 5V is enough.



More here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=921477#post10513035

< Message edited by alex.guzun -- 9/9/2008 11:21 AM >


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/9/2008 6:25 PM   
DarkHorse



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Yes the LEDs look pretty cool.

You can also run them in line on the 5v BEC rail with a resistor.
I bought some for my micro heli's but they are no longer available on line.
went something like this: http://www.rc-cam.com/led_info.htm

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/9/2008 7:05 PM   
patatchim


 

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@Darkhorse yes, if plan to connect the leds to the radio receiver or from the esc, than yes you can remove the voltage regulator, since your voltage already comes at 5v or 6v.
This is more useful if you plan to connect directly to a battery.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/9/2008 8:54 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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yes, this is universal gizmo. And later this will integrate voltage cut-off circuit (as i wrote on RCG) and could be connected directly to battery. Nice (my opinion) for evening-after-work bushing - no light stop the car and change the battery.If you have 5V all the time it's easy, just add resistor to make ~15mA (for LEDs used by me) and you are happy, but what if your rx has no aditional socket, or something else (i'm gonna use 4th socket for heat sink fan)... this 1$ gizmo is worth every cent.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/13/2008 10:43 AM   
alex.guzun


 

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I have found a local store that has any screw, if not it could be ordered.
Anyone is interesting in some kind of Emergency Screw Pack for M18MT(T) (or any other screw set)?
How many and what screws you'd imagine that could pack contain?

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/13/2008 10:23 PM   
pete2222


 

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darkhorse, is that your youtube vid where the M18MT is rolled back each time over after it lands on it's back. Can you or anyone else tell me how to do this?

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/14/2008 12:01 AM   
DarkHorse



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yes, it's a dead handy move if your as lazy as me . There's a downloadable WMV version in the Just sharing - M18T - best 1/18 car I've ever bought!!! thread.
With the large M18MT wheels and tire diameter with 3s brushless geared for about 20 to 25mph, at full throttle there is enough momentum in all 4 wheels to throw the truck upright if you can apply plenty of brake to transfer the rotational energy in the wheels to the body of the truck. Also it is very easy to hit forward-brake-reverse-forward reliably and quickly with the stock pistol grip Tx.

A few things to consider though:
With the Mamba25 ESC I set the brake strength to 50%, on that setup that translates to about sharp stop from full speed which may endo over the front on some street surfaces but generally under control.
Running tight enough diffs front and rear so that the car wheelies on demand (using Thrax grip tires, not the slippery hard stock Chevrons) and diffs tight enough to give the momentum transfer to the body. Diffs to loose and uprighting is more difficult, too tight and you risk breaking a motor shaft (a friend did that but could just have been bad luck).
Close pinion mesh, sometimes the chassis can flex allowing the pinion to skip at these very high load demands.
Also a little easier to perform with a taller body like the Hummer to more easily role over or a stiff antenna tube could help.


To upright an m18t with lower body height and smaller wheels, it is possible with the aid of the antenna tube to use a fair amount of forward throttle just as the tires start to balloon and steer left to right such that the wheel/tire momentum tips the truck on to 2 wheels, then with the correct diff drag/tightness, enough rotational energy is transferred across the diff to the wheels touching the road (upside down on it's roof). Then the truck starts to move backwards, picks up enough speed on 2 wheels, at just the right time, opposite lock the steering and sometimes flip the truck upright (on street surfaces) .

Or if it's your mate who's truck is on it's roof and it's the first day out with a new paint job... get the m18t up behind bumper to bumper and ease in the throttle to pick up speed, creating that lovely Cccrrrrshssshhh noise of freshly painted lexan scuffing down on concrete LOL... as if I would?...

< Message edited by DarkHorse -- 9/14/2008 12:03 AM >


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/14/2008 10:13 AM   
pete2222


 

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Thanks darkhorse, i will try this with my stock motor and se what happens.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/14/2008 4:50 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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Servo screw is M2.3, but for future replacement i remade alu part to accept standard M2.5 metric machine screw


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/25/2008 2:44 AM   
fisheydude


 

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Hey guys, long time no see. My truck has been acting a little funny. It has been since I put the traxxas plugs on my nimh batts and esc. Using the hyperion eos0606i charger, the battery can only be charged at a very low amp (used to do it at 1.2 amps, now only .5 amps). It shows the batt takes the charge but the truck won't go. The steering is still strong. -What connectors do you guys use? Can these small batts and escs handle the high current connectors?- I changed the motor and still the same results. I finally have lipos coming, hopefully friday. Could I have burned up something in the speed control when I soldered the plug on the esc? I guess if it still doesn't work with the lipo, that will mean the esc is toast. If so, brushless here we come!

alex.guzun: Where do you buy your stuff? The bearings in specific. I'm tired of having to clean mine out so much. They get dirty like the ones in your pic above. I need to get those with the rubber cover thing, as you have done! How big of a difference is there in the abec 1, abec 5, and so on? Which would be best for dirty off road driving?

< Message edited by fisheydude -- 9/25/2008 2:58 AM >


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/25/2008 8:27 AM   
alex.guzun


 

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I bought it from Ebay (http://stores.ebay.com/WalawalaStore) or you can buy it from their e-shop (http://www.abec35.com/shop/)
Best place for all ball bearings you need, and absolutely fantastic support.
For m18mt there is ABEC 3 only (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ABEC_scale), as far as i know

Alex

< Message edited by alex.guzun -- 9/25/2008 8:35 AM >


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/26/2008 10:46 PM   
fisheydude


 

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Will it make a difference if the lipo wire is thicker than the esc wire? Not sure the gauges. I'm charging my new lipo now. Yipee, I hope it works. Well may-be not, if it doesn't, that will be an excuse to get a brushless system.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/27/2008 9:13 AM   
DarkHorse



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The thicker the wires the more current (Amps) can be carried through the wires before the wires get hot (wasting power as heat).

Are you trying to run a 2S pack on stock electronics? It will work fine but you need a low voltage detector to indicate 3v per cell under load (time to recharge) unless you have a 3rd party ESC with a LVC feature programmed or you will damage the lipo packs.

3S will probably blow the stock 5v BEC regulator in the stock ESC as it tries to regulate ~12v to 5v (by the old fashioned heat dissipation method).

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 9/27/2008 2:41 PM   
fisheydude


 

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It is only a 2s pack. I have a lvc I need to install. I am going to make it in a harness so it is not permanent. I can't remember the name of it.

MALE CON.-lvc-FEMALE CON.

That way it can be run in between the batt and esc. It is the stock esc and a losi insane brushed motor. I want to try the reedy motor I have if I can make it work. I have had problems finding screws to mount it.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 10/3/2008 7:34 PM   
madweazl


 

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Does the inline battery adapter still allow you to run the included stick pack?

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