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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 3/20/2009 9:05 PM   
maybelater29


 

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ORIGINAL: DarkHorse

If they are not to worn then a washer will do for quite a while but eventually they get so sloppy the straight line steering becomes difficult (after prolonged bashing in dirty streets etc.). Then you really need to replace the arms and balls (3 per arm). Not sure if it's economic to get nickel balls, might as well get a Pro kit and get lots of hop ups in one purchase (15mm longer).

I managed to scavenge enough to change all the arms and balls on my Hummer basher this week (from last year's action damage) but I have a pretty large amount of spares and bits to draw on.


I have an extra M18MT kit that I only used the MT body post from so far, I have all the spares I need. I see where you are coming from about the pro kit I just don't know if I'd bash it like I do my M18MT. I'm looking at $37 for all the nickle pivot balls are they worth it or will they wear the arms out faster?

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 3/21/2009 5:48 PM   
Mini_Me



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quote:

ORIGINAL: maybelater29


quote:

ORIGINAL: DarkHorse

If they are not to worn then a washer will do for quite a while but eventually they get so sloppy the straight line steering becomes difficult (after prolonged bashing in dirty streets etc.). Then you really need to replace the arms and balls (3 per arm). Not sure if it's economic to get nickel balls, might as well get a Pro kit and get lots of hop ups in one purchase (15mm longer).

I managed to scavenge enough to change all the arms and balls on my Hummer basher this week (from last year's action damage) but I have a pretty large amount of spares and bits to draw on.


I have an extra M18MT kit that I only used the MT body post from so far, I have all the spares I need. I see where you are coming from about the pro kit I just don't know if I'd bash it like I do my M18MT. I'm looking at $37 for all the nickle pivot balls are they worth it or will they wear the arms out faster?



It depends on how much dust your run in and how often you clean your suspension with canned air or a air compressor. the flipside is having your suspension lock up or the arm pop off because the ball wore down.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 3/21/2009 6:30 PM   
maybelater29


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Mini_Me


quote:

ORIGINAL: maybelater29


quote:

ORIGINAL: DarkHorse

If they are not to worn then a washer will do for quite a while but eventually they get so sloppy the straight line steering becomes difficult (after prolonged bashing in dirty streets etc.). Then you really need to replace the arms and balls (3 per arm). Not sure if it's economic to get nickel balls, might as well get a Pro kit and get lots of hop ups in one purchase (15mm longer).

I managed to scavenge enough to change all the arms and balls on my Hummer basher this week (from last year's action damage) but I have a pretty large amount of spares and bits to draw on.


I have an extra M18MT kit that I only used the MT body post from so far, I have all the spares I need. I see where you are coming from about the pro kit I just don't know if I'd bash it like I do my M18MT. I'm looking at $37 for all the nickle pivot balls are they worth it or will they wear the arms out faster?



It depends on how much dust your run in and how often you clean your suspension with canned air or a air compressor. the flipside is having your suspension lock up or the arm pop off because the ball wore down.



I run in a lot of dirt and dust...this is my most bashed truck....I tear down and clean once a month or so, depends on how much I run it...I might just order some upgrades...outside of Pivot balls I can't think of anything(I have alum. CVDs) and just build the other kit...throw a castaway stock radio and a brushed motor in the old one for when my nephew is here and wants to play with my truck...Also are alum shocks worrth the price?

< Message edited by maybelater29 -- 3/22/2009 2:10 AM >

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 4/19/2009 1:11 PM   
DarkHorse



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Status: online 		Found a couple of recent youtube vids (modified setups) messing about:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvtusAJRU2s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEvkHTApdng

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnCg1MQ62sk

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 5/11/2009 7:18 PM   
maybelater29


 

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Status: offline 		I replaced all my pivot balls with the Ni ones and things are good....the only problem I'm having is now I'm breaking rear linkages like crazy, all in the same spot, right on the loop that connects to the rear hub. I'm using 20wt shock oil with the stock springs and am jumping it 6-7 feet up...could I be bottoming out so hard they are snapping, if so should I put on the black NT springs I have or use a thicker oil?

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 5/31/2009 6:04 PM   
DarkHorse



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Status: online 		Just to let ya know... that after a year or so I managed to snap the 2mm shaft on a Himax 2025 5400Kv motor whilst torque flipping upright (a mentioned in this post). Between me and a friend we have broken 3 Himax inrunner motor shafts because the 2025s come with a 'D' shaped 2mm pinion seat, a weak point that seems to fracture under high loads (100% throttle 100% break cycles with tight diffs). I guess that it does high light the relative strength of the rest of the drive train with ali CVDs (universal jointed axel drive shafts).

< Message edited by DarkHorse -- 5/31/2009 6:05 PM >

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/18/2009 7:38 AM   
filzemail


 

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Status: offline 		Hi
Since you have some real time experience with the 1/18th xray, I have a question about the front end of my m18t pro. For some reason it locks up in a right turn position and must be picked up and the left wheel forced in the right direction. This only happens after a sound hit on the right front wheel. This locking up in a right turn position really peeves me. How can this be stopped? If you can help it will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
Phil


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/18/2009 8:20 AM   
DarkHorse



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Status: online 		Yes it happens from time to time on impacts.

Either add a spacer to lengthen the stopper from the hub suspension block
or remove the stopper to prevent it from jamming on the lower suspension arm.

The reason the stoppers are used is to stop the front wheels from turning to a high angle
and reduce CVD (UJ drive shafts) from powering at steep angles which could damage them.
Expect the stopper are less important for the m18t Pro steel CVDs, where as the original
stock plastic CVDs probably wouldn't have bee happy for long, hence the stoppers were useful.

I've ran without the stopper posts and not noticed any ill effects on the Pro
but I have broken plenty of the weaker cheap blue Atomic CVDs.

EDIT: Just checked one of my Pro's and they don't have any stoppers fitted
but still jam on full lock occasionally in a front impact, a quick reverse/forward
and or wiggle the steering normally sorts it out.

< Message edited by DarkHorse -- 7/18/2009 10:31 AM >

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/20/2009 10:40 AM   
alex.guzun


 

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Status: offline 		guys, what metal cvd can i use with m18mt?
i know of high quality original xray parts, but 4 cvd will cost me too much, and i do bushing, no pro racing.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/20/2009 5:27 PM   
DarkHorse



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Status: online 		Xray Ali $30 (for 2)

Copies Ali $10.5 (for 2), get 6, on fronts the copies can break up eventually.

< Message edited by DarkHorse -- 7/20/2009 5:28 PM >

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/20/2009 8:21 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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Status: offline 		those mentioned atomics are out off stock
i heard about braking these, cos the blue part is made of weak alu
those you mentioned are of steel, hope they will be in stock soon



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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/21/2009 6:15 PM   
pete2222


 

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Status: offline 		the atomic ones are strange - One of mine broke after less than 1 hour with the stock motor and battery, whereas the others have lasted really well. Therefore if you can find the atomic ones anywhere, I would buy what you need and more, so if one if you do get a duff one you'll be ok. Still cheaper than the xrays ones.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/21/2009 7:43 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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Status: offline 		atomic (and probably 3racing) CVD are discontinued
what about xray's cvd, do i need more than 4 per car, do they tend to broke as well?

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/23/2009 3:09 AM   
filzemail


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Darkhorse,
Thanks for the tip. I have not been able to try it yet, but as soon as I get another esc. for it I will be mobile. I had changed all my stuff back on my Vendetta ST. I got the m18t pro with lots of good stuff, like aluminum threaded shocks and steel cvd type outdrives. It also came with axle adapters for touring rims that also stretches out the track. I had limited use before stripping the spur gear. I disliked the steering lock-up problem. The truck handled really well on our home track(11 - 12 second laptimes) with punishing jumps and hard unforgiving obsticles like trees and fences. Good times. Will keep you posted. Thanks again.
Phil


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/28/2009 10:25 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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Status: offline 		Guys,
if i'll 'convert' my m18mt to m18t, do i really need to use anti-roll stuff? I do not racing, like pro.. just fun and bushing.
I think there were some diy antirolls.

Thanks

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/30/2009 6:29 PM   
pete2222


 

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Status: offline 		no you don't need them. I chop and change between m18t and mt and I have never bothered with the roll bar, although I do have some of the stiffer black springs which are good.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 7/31/2009 9:18 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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Status: offline 		one more question, anyone tried to run shocks with harder springs + some internal spring and all without oil?
what springs can be used, except from xray?

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 8/1/2009 12:13 AM   
pete2222


 

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Status: offline 		Can anyone advise on a good budget 2s lipo that will fit and work well with the m18mt?

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 8/1/2009 10:37 AM   
alex.guzun


 

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Status: offline 		try this - http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7310
will fit m18mt battery bay, just measure it

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 8/7/2009 7:55 PM   
filzemail


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Darkhorse,
I finally got a chance to try your solution for my wheel lock-up problem. It worked great. Now I can drive the thing after any collisions and using another bit of advice, putting washers on the suspension arms , they are no longer popping off. This truck works really great . I am using a brushless set-up and now it flys. The fun factor just trippled. Thanks again.


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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 8/8/2009 7:27 PM   
pete2222


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Everyone
I have a quesiton about the X ray micro server. I took mine apart, and now whenever I switch the power on, the servo slams full to one side and the steering doesn't work.
Can anyone advise whether I have assembled it wrong ( I don't think I have as far as I can tell). Or have a damaged the circuit.
Thanks for your help. If it's bust - what's a good cheap replacement.
Thanks

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 8/9/2009 8:58 AM   
DarkHorse



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Status: online 		Nice one filzemail . I haven't had much truck time for a while now but will still hang on to what I have. Last month I had an long version E-flite 4200Kv 68g motor magnetic core break apart and is now trash, back on the little Mamba 5400Kv which works but cooks (probably previously heat damaged already).


> quesiton about the X ray micro servo...
Does sound like it's assembled the gears wrong, they use a potentiometer arrangement to seek desired heading. The 'pot' isn't being driven on your assembly.
The stock Xray m18t metal geared servo's are pretty tough if water is avoided. I belive they are HS-M81 MG rebadged (HS-M82 MG metal geared are newer), cheap and tough enough replacements . There are reports of centering problems on the HS-8x and I had one go bad after a year of use, guess that could happen at anytime though.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 8/9/2009 9:29 AM   
pete2222


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks Darkhorse,
I am going to try to re assemble the servo one more time, and If it doesn't work, I'll buy the one you suggest.

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 8/9/2009 7:27 PM   
alex.guzun


 

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Status: offline 		DarkHorse, what spur/pinion do you run?
My brushless motor gets very hot, too

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RE: Xray M18T and M18MT RTRs! - 8/9/2009 8:26 PM   
DarkHorse



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Status: online 		Depends on what the intended driving and surface is going to be. My M18MT (Hummer) basher is running a small Mamba 5400Kv motor on 3s 11.1v lipo 54T/9T, either 8T low speed to 12T for smoother road speed (way faster than the large wheels with higher centre of gravity and battered loose suspension/steering can handle, 25mph to may be 35mph max) plastic or metal pinion. Then drop down if the weather is warmer or take breaks and avoid too much hard braking. The Mamba's I've had all cook because I gear them to high on 3s and they are only really a cheap n cheerful option. They are probably not that efficient inrunners, when they get hot (+80ºC can temp, may be hot cup of tea like) I think the magnetic core starts to degrade it's strength and the Kv goes up slightly but becoming less efficient as the heat output increases and so on until the motor is always pretty hot after less and less action. Only tried similar quality/types of inrunner and the longer the can the better the peak power seems, not really useful power in my truck given it's size, weight and poor condition .

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