RE: Vailly FW 190 Build  
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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/5/2007 9:56:30 PM   
wulf190



Posts: 1092
Joined: 3/31/2002
From: chicago, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Andrew, for the flaps you can try using robart hinge points as one might normally use, but instead of using hinge blocks on the flaps to glue them in, cut some lengths of square brass tubing that your hinge points will slide into. Mount these square pieces of tubing onto the flat surface of the flap base using epoxy, hysol, etc...then you can glue the hinge points into the square brass tubes using something like gorilla glue or epoxy....low profile, and sturdy....has worked for me on 3 FW's now.

Mike

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/5/2007 10:11:15 PM   
Ironmanx43



Posts: 396
Joined: 8/30/2005
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Thanx Mike - that sounds like an excellent solution


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Andrew

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/6/2007 3:25:28 AM   
Ironmanx43



Posts: 396
Joined: 8/30/2005
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Well the retracts are in and I must say they look great, albeit a tight fit. I'm going to have to add some balse on the bottom of some ribs in order for the bottom sheeting to clear some of the mounting screws. Here are some pics: Oh and one more thing Vailly's wheels rock.

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< Message edited by Ironmanx43 -- 12/6/2007 3:34:10 AM >

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Andrew

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/6/2007 12:26:12 PM   
Ironmanx43



Posts: 396
Joined: 8/30/2005
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		For thoughs looking for some good detail real pics of the FW 190, here is a website which I am going to be using quite qa bit for reference.

http://ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/10/detail_fw190a8.htm#links

If anyone has other sites to look at, please feel free to post them.

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Andrew

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/6/2007 2:32:41 PM   
larry@coyotenet


 

Posts: 196
Joined: 2/25/2003
From: pueblo, CO, USA
Status: offline 		That's the way I am going to do it also. Sounds like it will work well in a tight spot. Other alternative might be to use the Robart hinge pockets which allow you to remove the surfaces with a set screw. They work well also.

Larry

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/6/2007 6:38:23 PM   
SNAKE STUKA



Posts: 174
Joined: 2/5/2003
From: Hialeah, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the link Andrew.The pictures are a great reference.

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/7/2007 1:21:34 AM   
Ironmanx43



Posts: 396
Joined: 8/30/2005
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Wow - its really coming along now. I finished the flaps tonite and here is what I did. Ifirst created the hinges as suggested above and then laid them into the LE of the flaps . Here are the pics. Next is to sheet the bottom.

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/7/2007 1:23:17 AM   
Ironmanx43



Posts: 396
Joined: 8/30/2005
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		THe Hinges are glued onto the flaps but the flaps are not glued into the wing yet. I'll save that till after painting. One final pic.

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/8/2007 3:24:47 PM   
Ironmanx43



Posts: 396
Joined: 8/30/2005
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		I was wondering , this morning, what anyone's thougtsw were regarding the flap hinges. Specifically, does anyone think I should extend a rib from the end of the brass square tube to the flap TE for athsetic purposes?

< Message edited by Ironmanx43 -- 12/8/2007 4:06:06 PM >

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Andrew

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/8/2007 9:24:06 PM   
wulf190



Posts: 1092
Joined: 3/31/2002
From: chicago, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Hey, glad to see that worked for you too Andrew. I didn't extend anything beyond the tube. It's not so noticeable when mounted, primed etc...but, you may desire to put the scalloped type cover on the upside of the flaps. I've seen the flaps both ways, with ribs, and also with that covering piece over the top. I'm sure you probably have reference of what I speak of, but if you need a pic of my flaps, lmk..have them both ways.

M.

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/8/2007 10:17:36 PM   
Ironmanx43



Posts: 396
Joined: 8/30/2005
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Wulf (M) I would love to see a pic of your flaps.. Pics tell 1000 words and I'm sure others wathing this thread would also appreciate it.

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Andrew

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/8/2007 10:27:49 PM   
Ironmanx43



Posts: 396
Joined: 8/30/2005
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Ok back to today's progress. I've started to sheet the bottom and cutting out the servo hatches. the pics follow. On another note, I've decided to put the tail feather control linkages internally. A pic follows that I found from another thread originating from the Great UK. Of course, now I'm going to have to reopen the fin and then resheet it. But such is life.

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RE: Vailly FW 190 Build - 12/9/2007 3:42:49 PM   
Ironmanx43



Posts: 396
Joined: 8/30/2005
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Ok - The bottom 1/2 half of the sheeting (center chord to TE) is now complete with the servo bays cut out. Next comes the top 1/2 of the bottom sheeting. This half will temporarily cover the retract bays. For me, this is probably the toughest part of the build because I need to remove only the sheeting portions covering the retracts and construct the retract leg covers (or whatever they are called). I like to employ a technique I affectionately call precise quesstimization. Here is what I plan to do.

First I am goinng to make a tracing of the covers from the plans and note the location of 4 to 5 points on the retracts. Then I am going to knock in two (2) "T" pins. One to the root rib at the center of the bottom of the wing. The other at the center of the bottom wing somewhere towards where the edge of the bottom wing meets the LE. Attach strings to the "T" pins and use them to measure the distances to the same 4 to 5 points on the retracts. 2 sets of measurements must be used so you can triangulate. Jot down those distances.

The next step is to sheet the top half of the bottom wing. DO NOT REMOVE THE "T" PINS! Then using the recorded measurements, mark the 4 to 5 points on the sheeting. THis should give precise locations so I can now place the tracing over the sheeting making sure that the point locations line up, draw connecting lines and trace the outline of the cover on the sheeting.

Now, create the covers using some heavy fiberglass cloth and resin using then standard method. Trace the cover outline from the previously traced outline on the sheeting before removing the covers from the wing. (If you can still see it). Double check that tracing with the "T" pin string measurments. Remove and cut the covers. Cut out the sheeting from the wing.

At this point I may make a landing for the covers for when the retracts go up. Anyway, put the covers on the retracts and test.

This is a long process. WISH ME LUCK!

< Message edited by Ironmanx43 -- 12/9/2007 3:56:56 PM >

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