RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build  
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RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/12/2008 3:37:16 AM   
allanflowers



Posts: 890
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I can well remember taking the right lower wing of my VK Camel with me all around the house, looking for the nail polish remover. That was almost exactly two years ago.
Not too bad, I thought it had been more recent.
Tomorrow is a day away from building. I will attend the Hemet, CA Scale Masters Qualifier instead to generate humility.

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 201

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/16/2008 12:02:57 AM   
camdyson



Posts: 828
Joined: 7/20/2005
From: Bairnsdale, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Allan,

Here''s the dash shots - hope the front-on one is some help.

Cam


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(in reply to allanflowers)
       Post #: 202

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/16/2008 2:15:24 AM   
allanflowers



Posts: 890
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Thank you VERY much. I will be able to use the dials from these photos in my mockup.

I have been working a little but not so much to show for it. The ailerons are farther along now.
Since the struts are next, I made some little clevises to use there. Too time consuming but nice little parts.



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< Message edited by allanflowers -- 4/16/2008 2:22:32 AM >

(in reply to camdyson)
       Post #: 203

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/17/2008 1:40:02 AM   
allanflowers



Posts: 890
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		The interplane struts are now done, except for stain and finish. I used up all those little clevises from the last post and the little acid etched brass fittings provided in the kit are really great to work with.
Since I am doing dual flying wires at both front and rear locations, I needed dual thingies for them to attach to, at the upper wing struts. Fortunately, the brass etched sheet serves for their Snipe too, so there were some extra fittings I could easily cut/modify and use.
This will complete all the major assemblies but there is so much other stuff to do. I figure I am half done now.


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(in reply to allanflowers)
       Post #: 204

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/17/2008 2:26:26 AM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5173
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: allanflowers
Since the struts are next, I made some little clevises to use there. Too time consuming but nice little parts.


I feel somehow responsible. Seriously, they look great! Are you going to be making a full set of them for all the wires? What is the size for the bolt and what are you threading them into?

BTW, I see from the posting dates that you've have about 4 months of fun so far!

< Message edited by abufletcher -- 4/17/2008 2:27:58 AM >

(in reply to allanflowers)
       Post #: 205

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/17/2008 3:23:13 AM   
allanflowers



Posts: 890
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		They are made of 3/32" and 1/8" brass tube with a 1-72 x 3/8" stainless steel sockethead bolt, locked by the brass 1-72 jam nut. The 3/32 tubing is threaded with a tap before soldering. The clevis pin is a 0-80 x 1/8" buttonhead bolt bought from the same place I got my taps, etc. Buttonhead are SO easy to use, compared to regular bolts and they look more scale than socketheads.
The trick was to solder the two tubes together all the way to the clevis end or when you cut the slot with a Dremel cutoff wheel and try to thread the pin hole, the tubes separate. So I had to make the inner tube extend out both ends of the outer (1/8" tube and solder it from the clevis end - which was then cut off even before drilling and slotting.
They are very time consuming to make compared to the dummy ones, which don't need threading or soldering. I was going to use these on the tail bracing but that would mean making 16 more clevises so I will probably go the dummy clevis route like your Snipe.
For the wing rigging, I will be cutting up those little Aeronaut turnbuckles to make left and right hand thread clevises. No safety wire, no pins
That will take a couple of days in itself.

< Message edited by allanflowers -- 4/17/2008 3:27:07 AM >

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 206

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/18/2008 1:43:16 AM   
allanflowers



Posts: 890
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I puttied the slots and stained the struts to match the other wood on the plane.

Then it was on to converting the Aeronaut turnbuckles into clevises, both right and left hand thread. Since I had to sacrifice some turnbuckles to make left hand nuts, I ended up with 14 left handed clevises and 20 right handers and all but two of the left handers have working jam nuts. This will take care of all my rigging, inter-wing aileron connectors and the bulk of the tail bracing.
These clevises are slightly bigger (12mm) than the ones I made for the landing gear and wing-strut diagonals (10mm), some of which are in the photo in the middle. On the other hand, they will have to do some real work as part of the wing rigging.
The clevis pins are 0-80x1/8" buttonhead bolts and should work well although I will have to get good at titebonding these tiny little bolts.


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(in reply to allanflowers)
       Post #: 207

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/22/2008 3:38:46 AM   
allanflowers



Posts: 890
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I've been making rigging for the last couple of days. It is all on now and working fairly well. With the wings on, I also dry-installed the ailerons, made the linkages, etc.
I will have pix soon. The ailerons seem to work real well although for some reason, the upper cable gets a tad tighter when I give full left aileron. Full right and centered are fine. My hinges keep slipping out so it is hard to tune accurately at this stage.

(in reply to allanflowers)
       Post #: 208

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/22/2008 8:05:21 PM   
allanflowers



Posts: 890
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		The first assembly is a real experience. A simple thing like attaching the landing gear to the fuse and the wing center to the cabanes can hold some surprises. In my case, the landing gear had been installed before so no surprises with it.
The cabanes were tougher because the grooves in the hardwood channel needed made shallower to make assemble easier and allow tightening the plates. The rear screws in each plate are inaccessible due to the wood struts and have to be put on before placing the cabane unit into the wing center grooves. I also had to angle the plates and angle the drilled holes, to make the screws easier to apply.



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(in reply to allanflowers)
       Post #: 209

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/22/2008 8:07:55 PM   
allanflowers



Posts: 890
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Here's more shots of the first major assembly.


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(in reply to allanflowers)
       Post #: 210

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/22/2008 8:19:47 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5173
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: online 		Definitely a milestone in any build! Congratuations on a job very well done! Now you can get on with the "other half" of the work!

BTW, can I get you to take a shot of the wing servo installation?

< Message edited by abufletcher -- 4/22/2008 8:21:20 PM >

(in reply to allanflowers)
       Post #: 211

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/23/2008 6:09:15 PM   
CTDavies



Posts: 266
Joined: 9/1/2003
From: Weeze, GERMANY
Status: offline 		Great pictures of an outstanding model. I'm really impressed.

_____________________________

"there is no Dark Side of the Moon really,
as a matter of fact it's all dark"

(in reply to allanflowers)
       Post #: 212

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/24/2008 3:33:23 AM   
allanflowers



Posts: 890
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Abu and Chris. I am enjoying this build.
Abu, here are some close-ups of the aileron installation. These are JR digital mini servos. The basic plate is 1/16" (1.5mm) plywood with a 1/16" tongue at the back which goes into a groove cut into the rear hardwood cross piece. This way, you only need screws at the front corners. It is important to watch the grain on the little hardwood blocks into which the servo screws go, to avoid splitting.
My linkage has a Sullivan clevis (with a 2-56 stainless bolt silver soldered to a 2-56 rod, threaded on the back end. I have a small plastic clevis there and will dye it black.
I also have a new "toy"...


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(in reply to CTDavies)
       Post #: 213

RE: CD Scaledesigns Pup build - 4/24/2008 12:36:15 PM   
abufletcher