Posts: 351
Joined: 10/31/2005 From: , NJ, USA Status: offline
Finally got some time and did some work. Here are some pics. I cut out the front template a bit big.
Should the firewall be 1/4" ply or thinner? I also wanna put some around the sides. The bottom and the sides feel strong but not the top. 1/16" should be fine?
I plan on using velcro staps for the fuel tank and the holes on the bottom will be great for that. I have seen that done on the larger gas planes
Bring on the tips...
< Message edited by nitrobeast -- 11/20/2007 2:22:05 AM >
Posts: 2273
Joined: 4/26/2006 From: , NC, USA Status: offline
Well as you have seen there are different opinions. RCManniac sudjests 1/4 ply I recomend something between 1/8 and 1/4 such as 3/16. Ultimately the choice is yours. My basis is of weight savings plus acheiving adequate strength. As far as sheeting the front in ply... I would try to make it strong without adding any more weight than I absolutely have to. Even balsa sheeting adds torsional rigidity and can be sealed with a mixture of epoxy and alcohol like putting a varnish on furniture. This will also serve to fuel proof the wood. Triangle stock in the 90 degree corners around the firewall would be a recomendation as well. When you install the fuel tank I am guessing you intend to wrap it in foam and use your vecro straps to hold it in place? That would be perfect.
It is difficult to see in your pictures exactly what angle you have cut the front off at if any at all. I was just wondering if you were planning some right and down thrust into the fire wall. Also for your measurement of how much you cut off, did you take into account the distance the engine will be away from the firewall after it is installed on an engine mount?
< Message edited by Mr67Stang -- 11/20/2007 2:56:46 AM >
Posts: 571
Joined: 11/3/2003 From: muskegon,
MI, USA Status: offline
What you have done so far looks good......however, I would recommend a 6 ounce tank...instead of the 8oz you have pictured, for a couple reasons...... #1. Weight factor
#2. If you still plan on the 32 for power.....6 ounces will give you about 12 minutes flying time ....thats plenty!!
#3. A 6oz is a lot easier to take in and out....if you have to....
Posts: 351
Joined: 10/31/2005 From: , NJ, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Mr67Stang
Well as you have seen there are different opinions. RCManniac sudjests 1/4 ply I recomend something between 1/8 and 1/4 such as 3/16. Ultimately the choice is yours. My basis is of weight savings plus acheiving adequate strength. As far as sheeting the front in ply... I would try to make it strong without adding any more weight than I absolutely have to. Even balsa sheeting adds torsional rigidity and can be sealed with a mixture of epoxy and alcohol like putting a varnish on furniture. This will also serve to fuel proof the wood. Triangle stock in the 90 degree corners around the firewall would be a recomendation as well. When you install the fuel tank I am guessing you intend to wrap it in foam and use your vecro straps to hold it in place? That would be perfect.
It is difficult to see in your pictures exactly what angle you have cut the front off at if any at all. I was just wondering if you were planning some right and down thrust into the fire wall. Also for your measurement of how much you cut off, did you take into account the distance the engine will be away from the firewall after it is installed on an engine mount?
Yes i will use foam around the tank. I will try and post a pic later to show the thrust. Yes i took into account the engine mount distance too.
Posts: 351
Joined: 10/31/2005 From: , NJ, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: RC MANIAC119
What you have done so far looks good......however, I would recommend a 6 ounce tank...instead of the 8oz you have pictured, for a couple reasons...... #1. Weight factor
#2. If you still plan on the 32 for power.....6 ounces will give you about 12 minutes flying time ....thats plenty!!
#3. A 6oz is a lot easier to take in and out....if you have to....
Keep the pics coming.........looking good!
The 8oz tank has no problem going in and out but, I will look into a 6oz Hopefully I will get over to the hobby store and get the balsa and ply i need and get some more done today.
I used 1/32 ply on the box walls.
< Message edited by nitrobeast -- 11/23/2007 4:06:57 PM >
Posts: 351
Joined: 10/31/2005 From: , NJ, USA Status: offline
Hey guys
I think i ran into an issue but im not sure. With the engine mounted it doesnt look like it centered. My numbers tell me it is but my eyes tell me something else. Should the engine be a little to the left if looking at the prop? Could it be because of the right thrust causing it? I'll post a pic soon.
well did you build the thrust into the firewall or did ou use washers? if you used washers then you can remove or add them. if you built it in. maybe you can still add washers now? not sure these guys will help more.
Posts: 351
Joined: 10/31/2005 From: , NJ, USA Status: offline
THink i figured it out. I guess i was getting tired yesterday. I could of pulled it back a little more but I think its OK. LMK if you see anything before i glue the firewall in. I made the firewall out of 1/4 ply.
< Message edited by nitrobeast -- 11/23/2007 4:07:50 PM >
did you push the cowl way back or si the motor way foward? if its the motor you mave have issues with it being nose heavy. you wanna try and keep the back of the prop pretty close to the front of the cowl. good luck on the maiden!
Posts: 571
Joined: 11/3/2003 From: muskegon,
MI, USA Status: offline
From the pictures, it looks like you have about 3 degrees of offset...Thats a good thing!!! I would go ahead and lock everything in place.
When you finally maiden this animal.....fly straight and level, and then pull straight up. If the bird follows a straight line....leave the engine alone. If it goes up...more to right...add a couple washers behind the rear mounting bolts only on the engine...if it goes up to the left.add washers to the front mounting bolts!!!
Don't worry about being nose heavy at this point.until you have it trimmed out.
Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Crash & Rebuild >> RE: convert from electric to nitro 
RE: convert from electric to nitro - 
