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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pylon Universe - RC Pylon Racing >> Q-500 Racing >> RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE
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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/28/2008 8:33:00 PM   
Randy Etken



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Those clear bottle wings should be special, like a two brown bagger.

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/28/2008 9:24:02 PM   
vicman



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I didn't know Peru was in NC


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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/28/2008 9:48:34 PM   
daven



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Were just lucky the still survived the earthquake last fall.

Something you see on every other porch in NC Vicman.

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/28/2008 10:36:40 PM   
vicman



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That qualifies for the full scale version to be sure!


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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 12:23:50 AM   
Bill Vargas



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Hey Dave, with that HUGE pile of wood in the background,,, how many Quickees do you plan on making this year?


BV

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 12:46:08 AM   
PylonDave



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Here is my latest project. A preditor wing with a scratch fuse patterned after the hurrikane fuse. no tabs though.Trying to decide whether to glass or just cover the fuse. since the wing is covered i will probably cover the fuse too. the Vtail is from an old crash plane.
This will be Q500 # 5 in the stable.


Dave , what are you useing to glass the fuses . PU or epoxy??

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 5:01:21 AM   
daven



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Stable is filling up Dave, thats the problem with these things. You have a few decent races, and its like rabbits multiplying in the basement.

If I am taking my time, I prefer glassing with 3/4 oz glass and laminating resin (my choice is EZ Lam 60). The ONLY problem with this, is it takes about 24 hours to dry. In my snail process, I only do one side at a time, so its 4 days to do a quickie. When I am rushed, like this past weekend, I will use Z-Poxy finishing resin which takes about 3 hours to dry in the cold up here. Even if I keep the garage at 70, it takes 2 1/2 - 3 hours to get to a stage I feel comfortable sanding off.

Thats not my pile of wood Bill, that is to fire the Stil in the picture. The taxes and prices of alcohol in South America persuade many of the locals to brew their own.

A couple more layers of glass tonight, the first batch should be ready for paint this weekend. After these 4, I'm only planning on building 2 more this winter. If that doesn't make it through 2008, time to learn a new hobby

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 7:32:55 PM   
PylonDave



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have any of you used Water Based poly urethane for laying fiberglass cloth??? Does it work well as far a saving weight and does it fill the weave as well as epoxy? how about the sanding part??

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 7:37:53 PM   
daven



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I used that technique for a while Dave and at first I thought it was great. Then I had a couple pieces of wood warp due to the water part of wbp. Then I was told you need to seal the surface first, then lightly sand, and then you were good to go. Did that, it goes on easy, but doesn't fill the weave as well as either laminating or finishing resin so you end up with at least two coats and that isn't always enough. Sands fine, but I have gone back to epoxy. I think it is harder and stronger than wbp.

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 10:25:16 PM   
PylonDave



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when you say laminating resin , is that epoxy based?? like the west system??

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 10:34:43 PM   
daven



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Yes, it is a very slow drying epoxy that I use to lay up parts.

Takes about 24 hours to dry so you can sand.

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 11:07:33 PM   
PylonDave



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so you can't use a faster hardener???

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 11:22:53 PM   
fizzwater2


 

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Wonder if there's a little blue pill you can mix in with it..

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/29/2008 11:51:29 PM   
DonStegall


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: PylonDave

so you can't use a faster hardener???


Most of the laminating epoxies that have a long pot life also have a long cure time. The thin film working time is often significantly longer than the pot life in the laminating epoxies. This means that the cure is extended. This is very useful when doing large complex lay-ups as you can batch only the amount you need for the portion (or layer) you are working on.

I haven't used it because I use laminating epoxy and a "hot-box" to speed the cure (when desired), but Zap Adhesives Z-Poxy Finishing Resin is supposed to work well for the application you are talking about. With its pot life to cure time ratio, I doubt if you can mix batches, so you need to be able to do the work in the allotted 20-30 minutes.

I use the WEST SYSTEM products extensively. Not because they are the best, but because I can have four different hardeners for different purposes, and the pump system is economical. Plus West Marine stores stock the 105 resin and the 205 and 206 hardeners. So I can buy it locally in a pinch. 105/206 is what I use the most. But for complex fuselage lay-ups and vacuum bagged parts I use 105/209 for the 50 minute pot life and 2-4 hour thin film working time.

There are epoxy systems that let you mix hardeners. WEST is not one of them. System Three Resins does, and I believe MGS does as well.

If you want learn about epoxy, go to http://www.systemthree.com and read the "Epoxy Book". You can learn an immense amount of information about epoxy that will serve you well for years.

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/30/2008 12:50:05 AM   
PylonDave



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Thanks Don,
I have used the west system and Z poxy. I was just wondering how the laminating resins are different.

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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE - 1/30/2008 1:43:59 AM