nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size

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nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 11/30/2007 3:28:05 AM

Major_Smackdown

Posts: 35
Joined: 2/24/2005
From: Portland, OR, USA
Status: offline

first be aware that the instructions are pretty sparse and don't hit on key info sometimes, and in some cases is just wrong. Also I've seen some people say the STINKY is the same as the Double Trouble - how did you come to that conclusion - the Double Trouble is a 70" bird and the Stinky is a 57" bird. Another common occurance - people are so eager to answer and add to forums that they don't necessarily care to be correct at all. Here are some my thoughts while assembling.

1. you will all say this is a stupid mistake you'd never make but don't be so sure - put the dang rudder halves joiner wire in before you glue in the horizontal sabilizer. I was and felt like a real idiot by missing that. the instructions show the stab being glued in - then they show in a future step the wire being there magically - ha - I screwed that up and it cost me some grief.

2. the rudder and elevator control picture is wrong - use the lower control rod for the rudder and the upper one for the elevator - you'll still need a tiny bit of wire bending to get nice clean straight shot to the control horns. I mistakingly looked at the pictures instead of thinking it through and put the rudder horn on twice.

3. the clear piece of plastic with the ridge down the middle is their notion of landing gear strap for the gear doors (I didn't use it and can't further comment on it - just a fyi)

4. there was a lot of wood in my wing roots that were hiding air gaps in their lamination - I wouldn't be surprised if my plane explodes mid air - oh well. try getting some more epoxy or glue in those areas - at least the wings are held together by a joiner tube so that's not so critical.

5. By far the most time spent for me was the retracts:

the included retracts are pretty lame (but cheap) - and these were my first retracts so I had some learning to do. I used a hitec 75 retract servo - it's a little large for the space - I might have been better off with a standard servo - and would try that if I built another rather than screwing with the hole - but the retract servo is slow at least and that's a nice touch. Robart has some mechanical retracts that use a 2-56 threaded rod that screws into their actuating mechanism so you don't have to deal with clevises and such in a tight space. I'd use them next time around. the included ones have a lot of play that I could see would likely start some resonance on landing and get the plane wiggling and possibly aid in the extraction of the retracts from the wings. I inserted a piece of double sided tape and thin plastic in a strategic spot to try to eliminate that play - haven't had a landing yet so I can't say how well that'll work. I sort of expect to replace the retracts eventually - or build a new plane someday armed with what I learned on this one. At least if you use the retracts included - you can get some bolt on axles making life easier than attempting to bend the retract wire - I got mine from Great Planes. the interior of the wing needed a little sanding and rounding to try to assure nothing could get hung up as the retracts were actuating - be sure it'll work at any attitude etc - and you can't get it to fail on the ground at least. I didn't try to make Z bends - I used quick connects on the servo for the retract linkages. I'm not sure how the best way of installing the wheel wells would be - so I cut some vinyl circles and taped them on - anticipating getting back into the wing someday to tinker with the retracts - but hopefully not. I used some foam pads in the wheel wells to keep the wheels from vibrating or wiggling when retracted.

6. to make hardware life a little easier I switched to 2-56 rods inside the plane - I like quality hardware - just makes assembling or building an arf or whatever a little easier, and I used 4-40 on the ailerons. they're decent size ailerons and I could see them being under a bit of strain at full deflections. I'm hoping and expecting these ailerons will allow a fast roll. This is part of why I got the STINKY - it looked like it had the biggest ailerons of the pictures on their website.

7. I've got an os .55 engine coming with the slimline sports scale muffler from tower. this should allow an in-cowl installation with the inverted engine and the straight down muffler. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFG94&P=7

8. the cowling looks like a 3.25 spinner would line up perfetly but a 3.25 P-51 parabolic spinner is something I couldn't find - I did try a great planes 3.25 alum spinner and it looked a little big - so I'll be going for a 3" p-51 spinner - not perfect but I think it's going to be best match. I'm planning to use a plastic throw away spinner at first and a 2 blade prop until I prove I can land without tearing up the landing gear - I don't want to bite the dust on an expensive 3 blade prop and alum spinner. - and like I said - I don't have any experience with retracts and the quality of these doesn't give me much confidence.

9. the decals - the bigger star should be on the side, and the smaller one on the left wing in my opinion - I couldn't find a picture of a "real" airplane with this graphics scheme so I'm just making up my own - while trying to be somewhat realistic.

10, be sure to deburr the alum tubing for the fuel tank if you use it - or you'll be cutting off your fuel lines - I've seen this happen to lots of people and if that got overlooked I could see why.

11. I ground down some short 2-56 cap screws with washers to mount the canopy - I'm not sure what they intended. Be sure to tap in all your screws, then drip in some thin CA and possibly some accellerator to harden and basically thread the wood anywhere you screw into the wood.

12. also if you're new at arfs - I recommend a gas soldering iron to burn away covering wherever it needs to be removed for gluing - using a knife has lead to lots of stab failures for lotsa folks.

Anyways, that's it for now - I'll add more comments after I get the power plant and put her in the air and hopefully not the ground.

< Message edited by Major_Smackdown -- 11/30/2007 3:43:27 AM >

Post #: 1

RE: nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 11/30/2007 3:33:45 AM

Major_Smackdown

Posts: 35
Joined: 2/24/2005
From: Portland, OR, USA
Status: offline

After all that I've said - I think if you were to get some quality retracts, and avoid a couple stumbling blocks on the build - this looks like a nice airplane and of course especially considering the price.

PICTURES

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< Message edited by Major_Smackdown -- 11/30/2007 3:58:27 AM >

(in reply to Major_Smackdown)

Post #: 2

RE: nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 12/6/2007 12:36:28 PM

Major_Smackdown

Posts: 35
Joined: 2/24/2005
From: Portland, OR, USA
Status: offline

the slimline "sports scale" muffler ended up just a little too wide to fit in the cowling, I was very bummed to have to cut into the cowl but what the heck. When I first ran the engine with this muffler I had to open the needle valve way up (about 5 turns out) and it was blubbering pretty badly - but it did have a cool sound. I wanted to preserve this sound while getting some back pressure for fuel pressure. I lathed a couple inserts that gave me nearly exactly the same opening size as the stock muffler between the two pitts tubes. A lot of people recommend pinching off one tube completely and the other partially - I just couldn't bear to do that. the inserts are pressed in and for added security I drilled and tapped in a couple 4-40 bolts and secured them with red hi-temp silicone. Also the landing gear - I was able to drill and tap just under the mounting flange a 4-40 hole to insert a long set screw (or cut off bolt) to just apply tension to the landing gear mechanism. It took a little bit of dremeling to get it to clear while the gear were going up and down. With this "adjustment" screw in place the gear no longer have the wobblies either up or down.

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< Message edited by Major_Smackdown -- 12/6/2007 12:37:28 PM >

(in reply to Major_Smackdown)

Post #: 3

RE: nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 12/6/2007 12:50:14 PM

Major_Smackdown

Posts: 35
Joined: 2/24/2005
From: Portland, OR, USA
Status: offline

I got a chance to take her for a spin today - she took off nice and straight - the tail came up for a main wheels takeoff that looked really nice - not a lot of rudder kept her going straight down the runway and there was pretty much no torque roll at take off - I was pretty surprised at how easy the take off was. She flies nice and fast and takes a while to slow down for landings. You've got to get her going pretty slow to stall her out - which I did a couple times just as I was touching down which let a wingtip hit the runway. Fortunately I was landing on a plastic fabric runway so there was no harm. I'm thinking about some wingtip skids for landing on pavement. If you grab too much elevator you can stall her and she'll snap on you - but with a little practice you can pull very tight loops without any snap. With the OS .55 running an APC 12x5 prop she was capable of very large loops as well - and very nice and straight loops I might add. My runway is very short - about 150 usable feet and soft sand off the landing strip that breaks landing gear off ever chance it gets. I'm planning to try a 13x4 prop next time out to see if I can get a little slower on the approach - a few of my landings today ended up coasting past hte end of the runway - but after a handful of landings I was able to get her to land and come to a stop in about 150 feet. I programmed in some flaps to aid in low speed approaches. The landing gear worked great and she looked so sweet making low psses without gear. The roll rate of this baby is phenomenal - climbouts are really good, and she carve the sky like thanksgiving turkey. All in all a very sporty plane that's easy to fly, and doesn't try to bite you.

(in reply to Major_Smackdown)

Post #: 4

RE: nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 12/7/2007 12:56:13 AM

opjose

Posts: 5367
Joined: 11/26/2005
From: Poolesville, MD, USA
Status: offline

Great posts!

_____________________________

-
Build em'', fly em'', crash em'' and build more.

(in reply to Major_Smackdown)

Post #: 5

RE: nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 12/28/2007 12:33:46 PM

Major_Smackdown

Posts: 35
Joined: 2/24/2005
From: Portland, OR, USA
Status: offline

some follow up - I've flown her off of grass for about 10 take off's and landings and as long as the grass is very short and smooth she wouldn't nose over - I got into the rough once and just before stopping and she nosed over (I did have my wheel brakes on then though - more on that to come). I've had a couple landings that weren't perfect and I was a little afraid of wings and retract mounts coming apart - but she's holding together just fine. I did drizzle some thin and medium CA into everywhere I could reach while the wings were being put together for a little insurance, but I didn't take any covering off or rebuild/reengineer anything. I figured I'd take it apart after I have to if they fail - but until then I'll fly it. On pavement the landings are really fun and smooth - I use flaperons and drop probably 30% as indicated on my dx7 radio for landing flaps, with a slight touch of up elevator and this allows her to slow way way down for a smooth landing - which is necessary on smooth runways as she'll roll out quite a bit. I've experimented with little silicone fuel tubing slices as "brakes" when placed on both sides of the main landing gear wheels between the collars - this little extra friction can be useful for a little extra slowing power on a smooth runway - but will likely get the nose over on a rougher grass runway. I haven't had weather to fly her again since my other modification - but I have put in an 1/8" thick shim under the rear mounting plate for the retracts - this pushes the wheel about 1/2" further foward when extended - I think this will make it land a little better all around and improve ground handling. on grass - in order to get up to speed for take off I pull full up elevator and immediately - yes I did say immediately reduce it to nill just as she takes off - also on grass not much rudder is needed, but more so on pavement to go straight down the runway - I fly with high rate elevator (actually as much throw as I could get) and land and take off with it - but to keep it from being too touchy I use about 50% expo. This will help you keep your nose out of the dirt when landing and taking off. - just be sure to remember - with a high rate elevator you can't yank it fully without it snapping the plane. My cg is about 1/2 inch further back than is recommended and she flys fine and isn't too awful snappy - so don't worry too much if your cg varies a little from the recommendation.

(in reply to opjose)

Post #: 6

RE: nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 1/13/2008 6:57:28 AM

Major_Smackdown

Posts: 35
Joined: 2/24/2005
From: Portland, OR, USA
Status: offline

the shim under the landing gear mount made a huge difference, I was able taxi on even some rough grass without any nose over tendancy.

(in reply to Major_Smackdown)

Post #: 7

RE: nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 2/14/2008 12:57:22 AM

gmrvos

Posts: 1
Joined: 2/14/2008
From: Douglasville, GA, USA
Status: offline

Great job on the "review" of the plane. I am/was building the Nitro Models P51 and am about ready to toss the kit! There were enough missing pieces that I can't build it without ordering the missing parts...landing gear, the tabs that hold the aileron, and a few more. When I contacted Nitro Models, they told me since the purchase was more than 30 days ago they wouldn't be discussing my needs with me. The reps name was Sally but I have a feeling that really wasn't her name. I got the kit for Christmas and decided to put my heli together first(Raptor 90 SE). Guess my best use of the balsa will be to build a little fire with it. DON'T BUY FROM NITRO MODELS UNLESS YOU REALLY DON'T WANT TO FLY!

Anyone have any suggestions on a good 40-60 size mustang from a reputable company?

I'm sure some people get complete kits but I didn't and their customer no service was the worst I've ever seen!

(in reply to Major_Smackdown)

Post #: 8

RE: nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 2/15/2008 11:34:04 PM

tommytorino

Posts: 168
Joined: 2/17/2004
From: East Islip, NY, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: gmrvos

Anyone have any suggestions on a good 40-60 size mustang from a reputable company?

The World Models has a very nice/easy to assemble P-51 ARF in the 40 size.

(in reply to gmrvos)

Post #: 9

RE: nitro models stinky p-51 .40 size - 2/16/2008 5:21:08 AM

rdemars

Posts: 5
Joined: 2/16/2008
From: Ponchatoulan/a, USA
Status: offline

For my big (50 year's) young birthday I just received my Nitro Models P51 it's the .91 4-stroke w/65.5 wing span the blue one "MARIE". I was impressed with the model right out the box!! everything look ok! nothing broken ! All parts were included however I won't use most of the hard wear or should i say soft wear I don't like plastic control parts!! I will use the good stuf as I have lots of it ,been flying for about 30 years!! HERE IS THE QUESTION-- I know the type of c.a. hinges used on this model however the plans call out the use of epoxy??? this is wrong in my expearance. ALSO is the C.G. call out of 5.39 in. from the leading edge were the wing meets the fuseloge??? Is this right ?Does anyone have this p-51 flying ? what C.G. dim. did you end up with? Ijust read about a nitro model p-40 with the wrong C.G. called out in the manual if the builder would not have cought this error the P-40 wouldn have been tale heavy!! EVER TRY TO FLY A TALE HEAVY MODEL?? Now the hinges does the slot in the hinge's go into the slot in the wood-- wing,stab,rudder or it looks to me to be a channel for the thin c.a. to wick into the slot better. Why would they say to use epoxy on a c.a.hinge????????? Please give me some feed back! THANKS,Randy ---------(will power it with a -- YS .91--SUPPER CHARGE 4-STROKE!!! )

< Message edited by rdemars -- 2/16/2008 5:26:05 AM >

(in reply to tommytorino)

Post #: 10

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