subhunter13
Posts: 237
Joined: 11/3/2006 From: Newport ,
NC, USA Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Blkft1 Uh,,, havent got that far yet.I usually use fuel line tubing,antenae tube,o-rings,or du-bro rubber boot seals for everything that goes out the transom. As far as my wtc I'm contemplating epoxy/glass treated 1/2 inch thick balsa wood or marine grade ply with o-ring grooves cut into it to cap and seal the ends.I'll only have two short motor shafts exiting the wtc then couplers that connects to prop shafts for easy disconnect. Steering servo will have a shaft that exits the wtc and connects to a clevis joint at the rudders.This way my wtc can be easly removed as a whole.The foam[blue isulation?] and treated lite ply braces[2] will form a cradle in which the wtc will sit inside the hull.I'm hoping all my components will be enough and not too much ballast if not enough then I'll add some bbs and thick grease inside sealable sandwich baggies. Marine ply and blue foam has been used to good results on my Mrp Pantera and Bud Dry cat transoms and hulls[as u can see I have some old crap].As soon as I have all my components then the Mcguivering starts,remember that show?As of now I'm just thinking on my feet.If my planned wtc tube fails then I'll build a glassed lite ply box with a clear lid and same set up out the back.Heck that sounds easier.My biggest concern is having the right electronics that are small and light enough to power this thing to a scale speed with some decent run times. Twin 280's maybe even geared e-flite units,mini rec,mini or standard steering servo,Mini LST esc and 6-8 2200 AA nimh batts but need to check what the esc can handle.I plan on using the props that came with it. Sorry about the long post. The plan is sound. And don't apologize, A long post to me suggests that you know what you're doing. twin 280s sound about right and if all else fails with the WTC, use an adapted plastic bottle. It works as long as your ship doesn't sink below 4-5 feet.
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Uh-Oh,Incoming!
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