Tom Z
Posts: 145
Joined: 11/18/2007
From: Ohio,
OH, USA
Status: offline
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Just got permission from Gary (super-skids.com) to post his Dye procedure.
Thanks Gary!
Tom
This is for the real (or authentic) SuperSkids only, and may not work on other brands.
I'd use the correct color if you can find it or mix it (as opposed to using a darker color and dying for less time).
Most parts take about 15 minutes, I think, but it depends on how strong you make the mixture.
Check one of the parts often to make sure they aren't getting too dark.
If they do get a bit too dark, you can lighten them a little by washing them in soapy water right away.
The tail saver bead and skid caps don't like the dye very much because they're made out of silicon.
You get a slight tint after a few hours. Some people leave them in the dye for a day or so and
then use a marking pen to help color them, or they just leave them white or use black.
On my red dyed landing gear, I left them white.
I usually cut a gallon milk jug in half to make a 6" deep bowl out of the bottom (so it's disposable).
I wash the parts with soapy water, rinse them well and let them dry. I add about 2 or 3 cups of
hot water (microwave to a boil) to my bowl and about half a pack of powdered Rit Dye and mix it good.
After I dye them and get the color I want, I rinse them off (cold or room temperature water) so they
don't dye more.
If you just let them air dry after taking them out of the dye, the color could continue to change.
If you've done all the steps properly; washed the parts first and rinsed them thoroughly, dyed them,
taken them out and rinsed them, and the color doesn't look good, the problem is in the plastic or the mold.
I've been doing this for a long time. If the color comes out blotchy, dark in some areas and light in others,
it's not a good quality plastic. If the surface has texture, but it's not uniform, don't even bother trying
to dye the part.
Shiny areas (which are usually near the mold lines or seams) will not generally even take the dye, or they'll
take it much slower than the other areas. This is a sign of poor tooling in making the molds.
Shiny spots in other areas are a sign of poor molding technique. If you look at a part and it has a lot of
flashing left at the seams, chances are your dye job won't come out good because it's a sign of poor quality molds.
Edit: 12-6-07
Just added more information from Gary
< Message edited by Tom Z -- 12/6/2007 10:50:32 PM >
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> E-Flite Helicopters >> RE: Dying Xtreme parts 
RE: Dying Xtreme parts - 
Sorry had to do it. Thanks for the info guys. Now for the color scheme for the old #4!
