RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       

All Forums >> RC Boats >> Speed - RC Gas Boats >> RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro
Page: <<   < prev  1 2 [3] 4 5 6 7 8   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/22/2007 3:25:16 AM   
Hydro Junkie


 

Posts: 1965
Joined: 11/2/2004
From: Marysville, WA, USA
Status: offline
The reason I don't like the idea of solid sponson tips is that when you balance the boat, you need to be able to put weight inside the sponsons as far forward as possible. Going with solid blocks means any ballancing weight will start behind that forward bulkhead, meaning more weight will be needed than being forward of the bulkhead. You need to keep everything as light as possible, so the less ballast you have to use, the better

(in reply to thevirginian)
       Post #: 51

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/22/2007 9:45:57 AM   
martno1fan



Posts: 7798
Joined: 1/20/2005
From: blackpool, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: online
I dont know hydros per say but surely the best way to ballance any boat is to use the motor to find the ballance point ie set the motor where it balances the boat?.I know sometimes its not allways possible but id say thats the best way to do it if possible.

_____________________________

im not argumentative im just missunderstood

(in reply to Hydro Junkie)
       Post #: 52

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/22/2007 12:43:56 PM   
Hydro Junkie


 

Posts: 1965
Joined: 11/2/2004
From: Marysville, WA, USA
Status: offline
The engine is normally set at or as close as you can guestimate to the CG location. Where a hydro differs from all other boats is you have to balance it like and aircraft, With some of the smaller nitro classes. you can get away with using the engine as a balancing weight, but with the design being build, this is very unlikely. With the hydroplane being balanced slightly behind the sponson transom, a majority of the weight needs to be there or slightly forward to take as much weight as possible off the prop, which supports the rear of the boat.
Something else that must be taken into consideration is the length of the flexcable. Since all flexcables shrink under load, the shorter the cable is the better. Also, there is a greater chance for breakage of both the tube and the cable using a flex that is that long, which is something a vee and cat don't have to consider.
This then brings me back to the sponson tips. The first run of the boat will tell you if the boat's balance is off. If it's close, a little lead mixed with epoxy can be put in the sponson tips to fine tune the boat's ride. By using solid woodblocks in the tips, more weight will be needed to offset any tail heavyness due to it's being that much closer to the balance point. For example, you have a 6 meter long board balanced in the middle. Now you put a 5kg weight on one end. To keep the board level, you need to put 5kg of weight on the other end. Now, lets move the counter weight in 50cm, to keep the board balanced will take 6kg. This is the same way as it works on the boat, though not as extreme. Hope this answers your question

< Message edited by Hydro Junkie -- 12/22/2007 12:46:55 PM >

(in reply to martno1fan)
       Post #: 53

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/22/2007 2:30:18 PM   
thevirginian


 

Posts: 1397
Joined: 4/13/2004
From: chesapeake, VA, USA
Status: offline
Gotchya, junkie.
How about if I hollow out the solid tips, which would render them not so solid anymore . But I believe it is easier to shape and build solid wooden tips in the first place and modify them to your needs later. Besides the tips are very small anyway. Thanks for the tip. BTW, I changed the sponson transom to what you suggested and I noticed a big difference in stiffness, right away.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to Hydro Junkie)
       Post #: 54

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/22/2007 11:24:41 PM   
Hydro Junkie


 

Posts: 1965
Joined: 11/2/2004
From: Marysville, WA, USA
Status: offline
You could do it that way if you so desire. All my boats have the sponson sheer wrap all the way around to the front of the sponson with the bottom framing running up to the underside of that. The skin is then epoxied to the sponson sheer, transom and all internal framing. This leaves the entire inside of the sponson basically empty while still very strong

(in reply to thevirginian)
       Post #: 55

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/25/2007 2:47:44 PM   
thevirginian


 

Posts: 1397
Joined: 4/13/2004
From: chesapeake, VA, USA
Status: offline
More progress on my project. Built the jig and glued all parts together. Finished the bow blocks as well. Made them from western red cedar. Light and strong wood. Even with no sheathing over the frame she lies flat in her cradle. Gosh, if I continue like that I 'll be done before the winter is over.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to Hydro Junkie)
       Post #: 56

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/25/2007 5:41:26 PM   
simonmiller


 

Posts: 64
Joined: 7/27/2007
From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline
This is really amazing!!

I am a RTR person, have not got the skill or patience to be doing a project like this.

Keep the pics coming, really is a joy to see a boat like this coming together.

Simon.


(in reply to thevirginian)
       Post #: 57

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/25/2007 8:49:03 PM   
thevirginian


 

Posts: 1397
Joined: 4/13/2004
From: chesapeake, VA, USA
Status: offline
Simon,
Glad you like my project. Fore me the challenging part is to design and build it from scratch. I have built many things like that in my life. Never really had a bad one. I will post more pictures as I am progressing.

(in reply to simonmiller)
       Post #: 58

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/26/2007 10:17:53 PM   
Hydro Junkie


 

Posts: 1965
Joined: 11/2/2004
From: Marysville, WA, USA
Status: offline
Two things I see that you need to be very aware of:
1) If I'm seeing the framing right, you have a concave bottom in the tunnel. This can make sheeting the bottom very difficult and may require a multi-piece bottom. If this is the case, you might want to install the decks first to stabilize the hull, meaning your skid fin bracket would need to be fitted before that point
2 Your building jig has me a little concerned. Having the edges of the hull being supported and not the center COULD lead to a warped hull. If you have a flat bottom in the tunnel, you will need to have a jig with a full width platform to make sure the bottom goes in flat. Any warpage can be very detrimental to the running of the boat, not to mention making the set up a difficult compromise at best

< Message edited by Hydro Junkie -- 12/26/2007 10:19:40 PM >

(in reply to thevirginian)
       Post #: 59

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/27/2007 6:19:18 PM   
thevirginian


 

Posts: 1397
Joined: 4/13/2004
From: chesapeake, VA, USA
Status: offline
Hey, Junkie;
Thanks for your legitimate concern. I had the same worries you just expressed. But I managed to cover the bottom first and ended up still being flat as it can be. When I glued the frame together it came out perectly straight - no warpage, what so ever. When I did the bottom I clamped a perfectly flat and straight board to the bottom and left the front section (approx. 6.5" unglued. The next day when the epoxy had cured the boat was still flat as a board. then I continued and glued the front section on and again clamped it to the frame and the nose piece that shapes the ram wing. Believe me, everything is still according to planes. She is still sitting in her cradle without rocking. With every piece of skin I put on her she will be clamped down on the jig. Next set of pictures will be coming soon.


(in reply to Hydro Junkie)
       Post #: 60

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/27/2007 6:35:48 PM   
thevirginian


 

Posts: 1397
Joined: 4/13/2004
From: chesapeake, VA, USA
Status: offline
Junkie,
Here are some pictures I just took.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to thevirginian)
       Post #: 61

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/27/2007 8:13:49 PM   
Hydro Junkie


 

Posts: 1965
Joined: 11/2/2004
From: Marysville, WA, USA
Status: offline
You really need to use more clamps, especially in the middle of that board. As you are probably well aware, wood can be bent using pressure. By only clamping the ends, it is possible that the center of the hull didn't get the same amount of pressure the ends did and if that is the case, the epoxy will be more likely to fail in the center of the boat. I found that out the hard way with my first boat and believe me, it wasn't pretty. One other thing is that you got REAL LUCKY in the way you put on that bottom. In most cases, the hull would have twisted which would have required taking the bottom off and redoing the install. Been there, done that, not a fun proceedure.

(in reply to thevirginian)
       Post #: 62

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/27/2007 11:36:03 PM   
tt-r


 

Posts: 112
Joined: 1/12/2005
From: bergen, NORWAY
Status: offline
Nice build Virginian I always love a good buildingthread.
One question though. Won't the size of your boat be a little small for a Zenoah or a Sikk? I thought that a 1/8 scale couldn't take the torque of a big gasser. And altso, how does the engine fit in the enginebay? Is it a tight fit?

Other than that i really enjoy watching your build Beautiful work.

(in reply to Hydro Junkie)
       Post #: 63

RE: Scratch building a 1/8 Hydro - 12/28/2007 3:05:46 AM   
thevirginian


 

Posts: 1397
Joined: 4/13/2004
From: chesapeake, VA, USA
Status: offline
Junkie;
I wouldn't call it luck. I knew upfront what I had to watch out for. The whole bottom is glued tight to every bulkhead. It couldn't hve worked out better than that. The board I used was pretty strong.
tt-r;
Glad you like my project. The size is perfect for a Zen 26. Finished weight should be around 15 to 17 pounds. There is a standard for the engine bay in this class. The width is 5" between the motor stringer. That allows for a variety of motor mounts.

(in reply to tt-r)
       Post #: 64