Posts: 84
Joined: 4/15/2007 From: Lota, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
After thinking about it for a while I've taken the first steps in scratching a Morris Mustang from some plans found on the net.
This is my second build after a long hiatus from that side of the hobby and my first scratch build. If past experience is a guide, progress will be slow. Suggestions are welcome. I am working with a limited tool set - hand saw, razor blade, no power tools except a drill. Glues will be aliphatic resin and 30 min epoxy - I like to put about 2 hours building time in and then leave things to sit.
The aim will be to build a no-fuss fun fly aerobatic plane. Power will either be from an OS 46AX, or a Saito 56 - open to suggestions on that one. Because I fly at a busy field I'll likely install landing gear - hand launching and retrieving when 4 or 5 other planes are in the air is a bit hairy. Flight gear will be a basic Hitec set up.
Balsa was purchased from Queensland Balsa here in Brisbane. The wood looks beautiful - better than anything I've ever seen in a kit - which is making it a joy to work with. Their packaging was a bit ordinary though and their was some minor damage upon arrival. I'm happy with the wood and the price so the damaged bits will be overlooked.
A local printer printed the plans out on A0 sized paper - the largest they had but not quite big enough to capture the scoop on the bottom of the fuselage. Printing wasn't cheap - over $20 when they were finished but the guy who did the job was an ace and real easy to deal with, and the paper is nice quality stuff. Since I'm not in this hobby to save money it wasn't a big concern. Will post their name soon - they were located in the West End on Boundary Rd for anyone in the local area.
So the first step is to kit-out the build. Looks fairly straight forward - ribs and some fuselage bits. Here are the ribs - love how fat they are! I decided to take the extra time and cut some lightening holes since the wood was so nice to work with and the ribs were so huge so they should stand up to it.
Time invested in the build so far - about 2.5 hours
You can print it out on regular sheets with DeltaCad and tape them together but I had them printed professionally on a large sheet - personal choice really.
Please download a copy and jump in if you're interested in participating in an international build - beats the hell out of the old penpal thing, doesn't it?
All the best,
Joel
< Message edited by yojoelay -- 12/4/2007 5:16:58 PM >
You can print it out on regular sheets with DeltaCad and tape them together but I had them printed professionally on a large sheet - personal choice really.
That's great! Thanks for sharing. Was able to print out Paul Swany's Taco .25 plans to scratch build a profile.
somegeek
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Fly safe, have fun. Measure three times, cut once. The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.
I'm also building a morris mustang (probably from the same plans). I'm a bit closer to flying but I've been working on and of for a year. I built this plane to get back into the hobby. Last year I built and flew 3 spads to get my flying skills up to par.
I streached the tail 2" and did not build the scoop.
Posts: 84
Joined: 4/15/2007 From: Lota, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
batchelc - that's the one. Looks like you're getting close.
Two questions:
1 - How did you build the wings? Can you pin down the ribs flat to the board and build the whole thing in one piece or do you need to support the ribs individually? The plans show a 'building board line' along the bottom of the rib and the bottom spar is positioned to lay flat on the board. Any input on the sequence used for assembling the wing would be appreciated.
2 - what are you doing for rudder and stab control linkages. The plans show a pull/pull set up - but I do have some spare pushrods lying around that would be nice to use up. Again, any suggestions welcome.
Haven't touched the ribs since they were cut out - might get back to it tonight for a while. Will tackle the fuse, rudder and stab until I figure out how to go forward with the wings.
1. I built the wings flat. If you look at the ribs I think the lower side ift of the spar is completely flat. Just pin them to the board and start gluing. I did use 1 strip of carbon fiber on each spar.
2. haven't really descided yet. Probably some carbon fiber push tubes with ball links on both sides. I may do a pull-pull set up depending on the cost. You really want a positive control linkage set up with no slop. But then again unless you go with digital servos, going through the extra effort may be a waste.
I did not fully sheet the fuse because I increased the thickness of the wood that I used for the fuse. It was what I had laying around. If I was to do it again I would sheet the fuse only because covering it would be easier. You can see some wrinkles in my covering job becasue of the open framework. If I had a chance to sand down the open frame more it may have come out better.
This should be a fun one to throw around the sky.
I'm painting mine as a "Blue Nose ****" - "Sweet n' Lovely". The real full scale "Sweet n' Lovely" lives about 2 hours from me and my friend's dad rebuilt the engine in that plane....
Posts: 84
Joined: 4/15/2007 From: Lota, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Thanks batchelc, I'll build the wing flat. I'd thought about only sheeting part of the fuse as well, or redesigning the framework entirely with a carbon rob for a spine (similar the the Mojo 40?) but since no-fuss simiplicity is my overarching aim I'll follow the plans on this one.
My balsa stripper ran hot last night cutting the sticks for the rest of the build plus a few extras since it was set up. Did a garage clean up afterwards and decided against rebuilding an old Piper cub that crashed hard after an aileron servo failure. The wing had an old single servo set up with two plastic flexible Sullivan pushrods inside - the red straw with the yellow tube inside - so they should provide a positive, no slop set up.
Time invested so far in the build - estimate 3.0 hrs + garage cleaning and reclaiming parts from a donor plane.
Posts: 84
Joined: 4/15/2007 From: Lota, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
I had a spare building board that was just big enough to start the fuselage so away we went. Framed in the fuselage and the rudder - they are a one-piece affair - in just under 2 hours. Lots of sanding to try and get tight joins - still learning this but getting better each time.
I must have bumped my balsa stripper between cuts because the 3x 1/8th strips along the bottom of the fuselage were cut a bit narrow. I'll likely have to do a bit more light sanding than initially anticipated to get everything flush before putting the sides on.
Once the rest of the rudder is done the fuselage will wait until I get to the LHS to stock up on 1/8" lite ply, and the wings and stab can get underway.
I Had A Morris Mustang Several Years Ago That I Built From A Kit. One Of The Best Flying Profile Planes That I Ever Had. I Opted To Put Mechanical Retracts On Mine Just To Be Different And I Already Had Them. Flew A Lot Different With The Gear Retracted Than When It Was Down. Even Put A Scale Color Scheme On It. I Still Have The Plans And The Rib Punch-Outs On Hopes Of Enlarging It To About 80" Span One Of THese Days. Good Luck With The Build.
Posts: 84
Joined: 4/15/2007 From: Lota, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
I've had 2 more sessions with the Mustang over the last few days.
The first session was to finish the motor mounts, frame in the remaining 'cowl' area, and place a few gussets around the fuselage. The second session began with fabricating the belly pan, then edge glueing a couple of sheets of balsa together, sanding them lightly, and placing the sanded fuselage frame on top of them. I used some large tiles that were lying around to weigh the whole thing down flat.
Unfortunately I realised that in my haste to glue the sides on I hadn't made it to the LHS to buy that lite ply for stiffening up the motor mounts and nose area. The glue had pretty much set so I'll assess the strength of the front end and figure out a strategy next session. Any suggestions are welcome - really the biggest issue I see is how to mount the motor without compressing that 1/16" balsa. At the moment I might carve away the balsa that is offending the motor mounts, and make some 'balsa plywood' using bits of 1/16th laminated together and substitute that for the lite ply nose doubler. Unfortunately I don't have pictures - I'll get some when I take it out from under the tiles.
I got the stab underway as well, pretty straight forward stick construction using 1/4" sq and 1/8 * 1/4 balsa. I decided to put some extra bracing into the thing - mostly because my joints aren't the best - so I'm confident that it will stay together and the weight gain was marginal at best.
Posts: 58
Joined: 7/11/2006 From: Swindon, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hi
Nice build! watching with interest.
Can you not add 2mm ply over the top of what you have already done? Will be fine although you will have a slight line down the fuse where its 2mm thicker each side.
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Give up RC? I'd rather beat myself to death...............with my own shoe!
Can you not add 2mm ply over the top of what you have already done? Will be fine although you will have a slight line down the fuse where its 2mm thicker each side.
This would be my choice. The original Taco was sheeted with 1/16" ply this way and it worked fine for holding the nose together.
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Morris Mustang scratch build - 
