xodarap1
Posts: 372
Joined: 10/3/2007
From: Johnson City,
TN, USA
Status: offline
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Making a link with threaded rod and link ends should work fine, but there is a lot of stress on that thick plastic part and it might be the reason Gaui went with that instead of the thinner walled link ends and rod (which are ok push and pull, but i don't know about any twisting loads.. the link ends might split/spin/crack?). It is a funky mixing setup where the L-30's attach and i can only observe how it functions when it's on the bench.
Who knows.. maybe I just happened to get a dud L-30 part..?
The only concern i had with making a replacement link with rod and ends was in using ca in the link ends to hold them in the positions to match the stock bone (i don't know if the link ends breaking free and turning in flight would matter for a link in this location and application) and any twisting force that it may encounter during flight.
Well, I hated to sit and ruin new parts, but after the other day when this thing snapped, I'd rather test this stuff on the ground instead of in the air where the failure could hurt someone (or worse).
I decided to brush on a fine coat of epoxy onto the mid section of one of the double links and then a coating of gorilla glue on another and clear nail polish on yet another to test to see if it would make them stronger without increasing the diameter of the shaft that much. By adding too much, the clearance of the flybar cage could then be an issue at extreme travel ranges. *The L-30's should not hit/pressure the flybar cage when the controls are moved to their extremes if the head is set up/adjusted properly.
To test, I secured one end of the L-30 with the middle of the link over a straight edge, then added weights on a cable to the other end to stress test it with a 30 degree pendulum weight swing . Did the same with another new one without the coatings..and two of the coatings did help to make it stronger. The epoxy coating worked best, then the nail polish (believe it or not lol), then the gorilla glue (the gorilla glule one failed close to the uncoated L-30). The epoxy coated one was the hardest one to snap. *I have not tested a threaded rod w/ plastic link end yet to be able to compare those results.
The important thing to mention after all this long winded stuff is that ALL of the L-30's took a LOT of weight before they snapped.. With AND without the coatings. This tells me that those parts are under some serious stress in flight, especially in a high powered roll or other moves at high head speed.
I'm really leaning towards my just getting pack of weak parts or weak batch as the cause of this failure. I guess it wasn't a total waste of parts and time.. What I did learn from all of this is that coating the L-30's (and other links) with a quick brush of epoxy or nail polish will make the links a bit stronger So.. until someone comes out with stronger links, you can have em in a few seconds.
Since it's first hover though, the H550 continues to be a great performer (except for this one part failure). It is smooth, has lots of power and is very good in heavy winds. I've had no issues with the other H550 with the carbon frame, but both have metal heads, same 500 RCP blades..
If anyone has a L-30 part failure or any other failure in the H550 parts, (besides the gears from using monster power setups), please let me know.
Thanks!
Steve 
< Message edited by xodarap1 -- 3/30/2008 7:04:12 PM >
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CX2 / HBK2 / Shark 450 / H550 XES / H550 Carbon / Dragonus II / JR X9303
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> RE: My Hurricane 550's first Hover 
RE: My Hurricane 550's first Hover - 
Somewhere during the flight I lost the nuts on the front landing skid mounts. I'm going to give the whole heli a good post flight to be sure othing else lossened up. I think my next upgrades will be a set of