Posts: 46
Joined: 10/13/2007 From: Birmingham, AL, USA Status: offline
I recently purchased and am in the process of building a TF Gold Edition P-47, but I have a concern about the 1/16" sheeting. The problem that I have is that the 1/16 x 3" balsa that was included in the kit to use as sheeting is not uniform in thickness. Is this a common problem with these kits or did I get the exception? Is there someway that I can get replacement sheeting?
Thanks,
Dave
< Message edited by sylvaner -- 12/10/2007 3:12:40 AM >
Bill Baxter, Manager Hobby Services/Futaba Service/North America 3002 N. Apollo Dr. Ste. 1 Champaign, IL 61822 USA Service Phone: 217 398-0007 Email: hobbyservices@hobbico.com
Posts: 2338
Joined: 5/31/2004 From: san francisco,
CA, USA Status: offline
there is 2 thicknesses of sheeting included in the TF P-47 wing sheeting1/16 and fuse sheeting3/32 the wing is the thin stuff the fuse is the 3/32there shouldn't be that much difference between the 1/16 sheets. something to check before reordering new wood that might take a while to get.
when I was glueing the sheets together for my wing, there was a slight difference,very small,but after the sheets were dry and I pre sanded them,before sheeting the wing, there was no real difference in the wood thickness,its important to inventory your wood before you start these TF kits there such a jigsaw puzzle. the difference between the thicknesses is so slight unless you do a side by side comparison its hard to tell.
something to think about as well, when I did my wings I glued all the seams with Tite Bond glue,it sands well,and I did all my sanding before I sheeted the wings, the 1/16 wood is so weak that poking holes through it is really easy,also when I glued the wingtip area I wetted the sheeting with a 50-50% denatured alcohol and water mix,windex works well also to make the wood more pliable,I still had some rippling effect that needed filling after I glassed the wing but it wasn't too bad.
good luck I am on the final leggs of my build its been a journey. glassed with water based poly and .56oz cloth,and body and logos painted with www.warbirds.com paints, water clean up,fuel proof to 15%nitro
< Message edited by bigtim -- 12/15/2007 1:37:18 AM >
Posts: 46
Joined: 10/13/2007 From: Birmingham, AL, USA Status: offline
Thanks Tim,
Your right with TF you need to do a good inventory of the parts before starting the build or you'll end up using the wrong piece's. I've been following along with all the different P-47 build threads and have found them to be very informative. I've built quite a few planes over the years but have never tackled one that is completely sheeted nor have I glassed one before. Decided this was the year I would quite thinking about building a warbird and do it. Tailfeathers complete, working on the fuselage. Have the Robart retracts in hand but have not decided on the engine.
I think that I will use 3/32" sheeting on the wings instead of the supplied 1/16".
Posts: 2338
Joined: 5/31/2004 From: san francisco,
CA, USA Status: offline
the water based poly method is a very easy method and the water clean up is also a major bonus this is my second airplane kit that I have done this way and am really happy with the results I would suggest reading the SBD Dauntless thread on his website http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/index.htm his insite into finishes and his glassing and painting inspired me to use it. I was going to power my JUG with a small gas engine but after doing some fitting there was just too much sticking out of the cowl so I went with a OS 120pumped 4st spinning a 15/7 3blade. all the radio components are in the forward area of the fuse, except the rudder servo, which I set up with a pull pull set up for the retractable tail wheel just forward of where the airtank is mounted,I plan on mounting the fuel tank on the CG a bonus of having a pumped engine I expected this to come out a bit heavy but it is quite light really a OS91 fs would fly this plane well,the 120 has some extra weight for balance as well dead weight is just that dead.
Posts: 46
Joined: 10/13/2007 From: Birmingham, AL, USA Status: offline
I'll check on that build link. I'm always looking for good insight on how something is done.
I've been thinking about the rudder and tail wheel setup. I've got a Robart retractable tailwheel which I'm going to use so I've got to figure out the linkage between the rudder and the wheel. I'm using pull-pull on the rudder, and I was thinking about a seperate servo for the tailwheel tied into the rudder servo. Maybe a micro-servo?
You woundn't happen to have any pictures of your rudder linkage you could post or send to me?
Posts: 2338
Joined: 5/31/2004 From: san francisco,
CA, USA Status: offline
sure I can, this is a early pic of a yoke set up I was going to use, but instead I went ahead and made a servo tray forward of the fuse former that holds the air tank,I then used a HD servo to control the rudder pushrod as well as the pull/pull cables,the P/P cables are just 30lb fishing leader soldered into the coupler for ball links I also got a larger HD futaba servo arm set, so the balls are on the second holes and the rudder is on the outer most hole connected with a quick link connector for easy adjustment the direct set up made sense to simplify the whole opperation my rudder is just a single pushrod if I was to do it again I wil do a P/P set up. it was a pain in the and doing the gear doors was also a real dream tomorrow I will take some snaps of the finish product overall I am pleased with the results but it involved alot of extra work,I also used a Robart air cylinder to actuate the TW up/down
Posts: 12457
Joined: 4/26/2002 From: Champaign,
IL, USA Status: offline
Discussions don't belong in the Top-Flite Support forum, so it's been transferred to the kit-building general forum.
_____________________________
Bill Baxter, Manager Hobby Services/Futaba Service/North America 3002 N. Apollo Dr. Ste. 1 Champaign, IL 61822 USA Service Phone: 217 398-0007 Email: hobbyservices@hobbico.com
Posts: 46
Joined: 10/13/2007 From: Birmingham, AL, USA Status: offline
Nice link on the SDB Dauntless. I almost cried when I saw what happened.
Like Tom alot of firsts for me, 1st Warbird, 1st Sheeting, 1st Glassing, 1st Retracts. I have everything on hand except for the engine and I'm going to have to decide soon. I thought about scaling it up but in the end decided against it this time. Going to do a little here and a little there to get all the first's out of the way. My intention is to get the Gold Edition and scale it up when I complete this one.
Any input that you or anyone can give will be appreciated.
"Never Under Estimate Human Stupidity" / Lazarus Long
Posts: 2338
Joined: 5/31/2004 From: san francisco,
CA, USA Status: offline
is yours the red box version I have seen a few of the older kits but have only built the gold edition,for a Top Flight no need to do any scaleing up its been done for you between the gold edition and there giant scale there pretty strait forward builds check the warbirds section theres a 120page thread on the TF giant P-47 as well as numerous threads on the 60 size version as well
Posts: 46
Joined: 10/13/2007 From: Birmingham, AL, USA Status: offline
No I just have the Gold Edition. I'm thinking gear doors and a few others. Thought about scale hinge line on the rudder & elevator but decided that I really didn't want to on a 1/7 scale plane. Mostly I'll just be practicing the finishing with glass and some detail on the finish. I've reading the build threads here and other forums and have goten some good insight.
I haven't had as much time as I would like to dedicate to the build between work and home, but maybe after christmas.
I have the top half of the fuselage framed and hope to start the sheeting later this week. I've never used windex to help bend balsa, only soaking with water. I'm itching to find out how the windex works.
Posts: 2338
Joined: 5/31/2004 From: san francisco,
CA, USA Status: offline
the windex works really good it softens the wood so its very pliable and doesn't effect CA if your using it for your adhesive.for a scale hinge line I used robart hinge points,and extended the aileron,rudder,and elevator areas with some tri stock to cover the lines and make a covered pivot area for the control surface. WARNING lots of sanding was involved LOL as well as getting the control surfaces to rotate properly and not bind,really alot of test fitting and making sure they were lined up when I epoxied the points in place. knowing where they were to sit in the control surface,I glued the points in one side(the control surface)making sure the hinges rotate proprly. its a bit away but when I glued the robart hinge points I put a drop of 3in1 oil in the hinge area so the epoxy wouldn't bind the hinges just a small drop does the job. I tried to limit the amount of detail I piled onto the JUG keeping the weight down but the 120fs should drag it around the sky just fine.
Posts: 46
Joined: 10/13/2007 From: Birmingham, AL, USA Status: offline
Have you used 1/32" ply to cover the hinge line? I was thinking of doing that instead of the tri stock because of the alignment problems. Robart hinge points are the way I'm going.
A 120fs you say. I really haven't looked at that engine. I'll take a look at the LHS later this week.
Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Kit Building >> TF P-47 60" Sheeting 
TF P-47 60" Sheeting - 
and doing the gear doors was also a real dream tomorrow I will take some snaps of the finish product overall I am pleased with the results but it involved alot of extra work,I also used a Robart air cylinder to actuate the TW up/down
as well as getting the control surfaces to rotate properly and not bind,really alot of test fitting and making sure they were lined up when I epoxied the points in place.