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RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/9/2008 10:12:28 PM   
AirTech



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Joined: 1/28/2004
From: Allen, TX, USA
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Well, I finally took some time to work on the Edge. As suggested in the instruction manual I started with the engine and cowl installation.

I drilled and tapped for 8-32 bolts the Great Planes 1.20-1.60 mount to fit my Evolution 26-GT and allowed for a 1/8" clearance between the cowl and the spinner backplate (Photo 1). With the cowl attached in position with some small sheet metal screws I set and adjusted the engine (without the carb mounted) so the backplate was centered in the cowl. The engine was temporarily bolted with a couple of 10-32 bolts to the engine box. I used plastic templates (the kind used to make quilting templates) to transfer the location of the engine head and then cut the hole in the cowl (Photo2).

I epoxied a couple of 1/2" square hardwood pieces right in front of the second former to increase the wood thickness behind the engine box sides. I drill and tapped for 8-32 nylon machine binder head bolts right were the previous sheet metal screws were positioned. I use #60 O-Rings as washers for these bolts to prevent the bolts from turning loose and/or cracking the cowl (Photo 3). I have used this setup before and it works great with the added advantage that they can be dyed with Ritz fabric dye to match the cowl color.

After the cowl was set in its final position I installed the carburetor and freehand cut the clearance hole. (Photo 4).

Next I am going to reinforce the rear of the firewall, were the engine mounts go with 5/32" Lite Ply. I am going to use 10-32 bolts with nylon lock nuts on the inside for the engine mount and want to make sure there is enough strength so the washers will not rip through the firewall.


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(in reply to Steve Campbell)
       Post #: 26

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/16/2008 3:13:32 AM   
AirTech



Posts: 402
Joined: 1/28/2004
From: Allen, TX, USA
Status: offline
Hi you’ll,

Mike from Graph Tech informed me that he is in the process of lying up the molds to build the carbon graphite landing gear assembly for the Baby Edge and Baby Extra 260. He will update his website to include these units as soon as they become available. He doesn't have a firm price yet but told me they will go for around $40 to $50 bucks.

For those of you interested you may contact Mike at http://ohiocarbon@aol.com. It seems the Funtana X graphite gear is a good alternate option but it's not available anywhere. I like the polished finish on the supplied aluminum unit, though it seems a little weak. I will install the supplied unit until the composite gear becomes available.

(in reply to Steve Campbell)
       Post #: 27

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/21/2008 8:45:57 PM   
Steve Campbell


 

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From: Zachary, LA, USA
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Great news on the gear, Airtech. I'll spring for a set.

Finally had a day where nothing more pressing was vying for my attention. Made a bit of progress... pics and text to follow.

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       Post #: 28

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/21/2008 8:52:42 PM   
Steve Campbell


 

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Next up was the throttle servo. The firewall exit hole location was determined when the engine was mounted; I worked backward from there. The Futaba 3401 servo used is quick, for good throttle response, but that particular servo is shorter lengthwise through the case than normal. So a custom mount was called for.

Here's the finished installation.

Note the tri-stock to add rigidity, and the hole for the servo wire; quite important on flush-fit mounts like this.

.

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       Post #: 29

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/21/2008 8:54:47 PM   
Steve Campbell


 

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Here's the completed mount, sans servo. Best to install this sort of mount with everything in place (servo screwed to the mounts, etc), so there won't be any alignment problems later.

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       Post #: 30

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/21/2008 9:03:17 PM   
Steve Campbell


 

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From: Zachary, LA, USA
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Next was the SlimLine Excel Fueler. I have this unit on two other models, and it is simply exemplary; makes fueling a cowled glow engine, without flooding it, a no-brainer. And there are NO moving parts, valves, etc., to break.

Naturally, there is no free lunch. You have to "anchor" the thing, otherwise engine vibration will eventually cause it to start turning when you loosen/tighten the cover screw.

First, I determined the location of the stamped locking nut. You need to do this for a clean, flush fit. Then I JB-Welded that nut in place. Now, locate and glue in some bits of scrap wood against the nut flats, to keep it from turning once installed. This makes the unit easily removeable, should that be necessary.

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       Post #: 31

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/22/2008 12:13:20 AM   
Steve Campbell


 

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Here's the Excell installed. Sorry for the poor photo; I didn't realize the focus had shifted.

The second photo shows the exterior; the blue feed line coming out of the firewall next to the fueler, and the red vent line coming from the front of the tank.

That pretty much takes care of the front end. Now, to move back; temporarily install the receiver/battery/switch, get the wings assembled and fitted and aileron servos zeroed.

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       Post #: 32

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/22/2008 2:48:49 AM   
AirTech



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From: Allen, TX, USA
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I am waiting for my muffler to arrive so in the meantime I decided to finish all the electronics inside the fuse.

I decided to fuelproof the engine box area with water based Minwax Polycrylic in gloss clear. First time I try this product for fuelproofing and I really liked it. It dries very fast and looks much better than thin epoxy. It's hard to tell from the photo but believe me you can see the difference.

Right now I have the ignition battery on the rear shelf next to the receiver (I know that's not that good), but this is only temporary. I have plenty of wire (16 AWG) to move the battery around when it comes time to balance the plane. The ignition is switched with a FROMECO Badger failsafe slider switch. The receiver is powered from another FROMECO RELION 2600mAh LiIon pack thru a Reliaswitch regulator with a failsafe pin switch.

I'm using a Hitec 645MG for the rudder, which I know is a little lethargic but it will put out around 133 inch ounces of torque at 6.0V which should be plenty. When I get some extra cash I will like to swap it for an HS-5985MG which is a 0.13 sec. servo. On the choke and throttle I am using HS-81's which are fairly fast (0.09 sec. over 45 degrees). I had to install some simple 3/16" shims to accommodate the minis on a standard servo hole. I haven't installed the choke control rod because the muffler location may be of consideration in the cable routing.


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< Message edited by AirTech -- 1/22/2008 3:11:20 AM >

(in reply to Steve Campbell)
       Post #: 33

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/25/2008 1:40:14 AM   
AirTech



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I received the engine muffler yesterday afternoon and today I finished cutting down the cowl clearance holes. As I suspected the muffler was on the way for the choke cable so that needed some modification to the choke actuating arm. I bolted a servo arm from a Hitec servo to the choke arm in order to obtain the necessary clearance around the muffler. The only drawback is that the lever being so much longer than the stock one requires a bigger clearance hole on the cowl. Photos 2 and 3 shows the choke in the closed and open positions, and one can see how much the lever protrudes through the cowl.

By the way for those of you using an Evolution 26-GT2 be advised the True Turn 10X1mm Spinner Adapter Kit Part No. TT-0100-A fits perfectly with any 18" prop or smaller. This adapter cost around $9 dollars versus the short adapter kit (TT-01005-A) which goes for approximately $15 dollars.

I decided to paint the frame of the canopy for a more scale like look. I used Pactra RC251 (Sprint White) polycarbonate spray paint. I attempted to paint it on the inside, like I usually do, nerveless because the slight smoke color tint on the canopy I had to paint it on the outside. To this I first outline the frame and the canopy (on the turtledeck) with a Sharpie felt tip pen (Photo 4). I then masked the frame with vinyl electrical tape, and then masked the clear areas with regular masking tape and paper (Photo 5). Before applying paint make sure to lightly scuff the areas to be painted with "00" Fine Steel Wool to remove all the shine (Photo 6). That will give the paint better adhesion.

Finally I cut a 1/8" stripe of the covering on the inside of the areas I previously outlined on the turtledeck in order to expose the balsa and get a good bond with Super RC Z 56 canopy glue. I let it cure overnight before removing the hold down tapes.


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       Post #: 34

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 1/25/2008 8:04:05 PM   
AirTech



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Here there are a couple of photos of the completed canopy. The frame paint is not quite as glossy as the white covering but the color is a very close match.

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       Post #: 35

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 2/1/2008 12:32:48 AM   
AirTech



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From: Allen, TX, USA
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I am all done and waiting for a good day to maiden the Baby Edge. With the Evolution 26GT2 up front I ended up adding 3 oz. of lead on the rear (elevators) servos to attain a CG of 4 5/8" from the leading edge at the root. It's been windy as heck here in northern Texas the last few days but if tomorrow turns out to be good day I will, at least, break in the engine.

My setup is as follows;

Evolution 26GT2 gas engine w/ 12 oz. tank
Hitec HS645-MG on ailerons and rudder
Hitec HS635-HB on elevators (will replace them with HS-625MG, on order)
Hitec HS-81 on Throttle and Choke
Stock Pull-Pull system on rudder, 4-40 rods with CF tubes from optional Parts Kit and 2-56 Ball Links
FROMECO 2400mAh LiIon batteries for Receiver and Ignition system
FROMECO ReliaSwitch voltage regulator with Failsafe pin switch on receiver and Badger Switch on Ignition


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       Post #: 36

RE: Baby Edge Build Thread - 2/1/2008 1:11:48 AM   
rctom



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Looks nice and tidy. I think you have enough electrical power for several of these planes.

TF