Posts: 1589
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
Thanks, dude.
Antenna
pic 1: I got some 'beading cord, elastic' from the local big box sewing isle.
pic 2/3/4: I used some small brass wire, bent a loop on one end and CA'ed one to the rudder, one with a double loop to the mast so it won't come off and then soldered one to a small brass tube and used one of the canopyscrews to hold it on. I used the same thin brass wire to make hooks on one end and a loop on the other and tied the beading cord to each end. I made the cord about 6" short so it'll stretch and no damage if anyone hits it. I took liberties on putting the antenna into the canopy as it should actually go into the side of the fuse.
Spinner.
pic 5: I had to grind the hole larger to get the Zinger 24X10 prop to fit the yellow spinner.
pic 6/7/8/9: The spinner back plate had two holes but the engine has six bolts so I had to drill four more holes. First, I used a centering punch. Then I drill a pilot hole with a 1/16" bit, then used a 1/8" bit and finally a 13/64" bit.
pic 10/11: I also had to drill six holes in the wood prop. I used the engine prop plate as a guide for drilling the holes. As I drilled each hole, I put an engine bolt into it to insure all holes keep aligned.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 4/22/2008 11:25:26 PM >
pic 3/4: I sprayed the prop aluminum and put some Hamilton prop insignias on the prop. Not sure if they are to be in the center or near the leading edge as I have them! (they don't look right so they probably should be centered)
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 4/22/2008 11:27:13 PM >
Posts: 1589
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
I found a free web site with a military font. I do a copy/paste to a '.doc' and then, after the 'paste', I click on the corner to change the size and then another copy/paste to get multiple copies on a page. I bought some decal paper which should allow me to print and put them on planes.
Posts: 1589
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
A few pictures of the military planes at our club's annual static show at a retirement home. There are several people there that flew bombers during the war. Scratch built Handley Page, Japanese plane , ARF's TF and H-9 B-25 and Fai-boi(?) panther.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 4/25/2008 3:39:52 AM >
Posts: 1589
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
Byron F6F Hellcat.
pic 1/2: Since the ignition for the spit was sent to Fuji, I needed a second plane so I converted the Hellcat to 2.4 and checked out all the mechanicals. Not much room to work with only that one hole in her belly. The powersafe receiver is down in there, somewhere!! Fortunately, I made the servo tray removable to get into that rats nest. As with the other R9100 powersafe, I had to make some adaptor extensions to connect the 'normal' jack on the batteries to the EC3 jack on the powersafe.
pic 3: One remote went on the servo tray and one in the wheel well so I can have a visual check.
pic 4: The third remote went about half way back into the fuse.
pic 5: In the past, I've had some problems with her wanted to go left so I used some washers and put them between the fire wall and FG fuse on one side: graduating the number of washers from two to one to none. Fortunately, the fire wall is only screwed to the FG fuse. This is a big advantage when any major work is needed inside the fuse as it gives a much larger access than that small hole on the bottom of the fuse.
pic 6: One big box over the engine to hold all that needed lead weight! A G-62 with spring starter for power with a 22X10 prop.
pic 7/8/9/10: I also painted black and re-balanced the prop. Some yellow on the tips for my 'old eyes'! About an 86" wingspan.
pic 11: Back in the 'hanger'.
pic 12: I finally zap-a-dap'ed the dummy radial into the cowl on the balsausa 1/3 scale Nieuport.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 4/25/2008 10:20:29 PM >
Posts: 143
Joined: 1/3/2004 From: Hopkinton, MA, USA Status: offline
I agree.
I've been following your thread, especially your work on the sliding canopy. Nice job. I'm currently finishing up a YA zero with a sliding canopy and my question is how well does zap-a-dap hold the FG frame to the canopy?
Posts: 1589
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
I use all #0 screws from Microfastners to hold my canopies on (also to make future maintenance easier). Since zap-a-dap works well on FG to FG, I see no reason why it would not work for canopies. I'm sure a good alcohol cleaning and some sandpaper would also help. I noticed that zap-a-dap doesn't take sanding very well so some Evercoat 'easy sand' would probably be in order for a nice smooth finish. As with caulking a bath tub or window, I would mask off the areas to contain the areas affected by the zap-a-dap and 'easy sand'. The masking will give you nice crisp lines.
It just occurred to me that I did use zap-a-dap to hold some parts of the frame to the canopy (the center non-moving part) and also the sullivan yellow tubing to the bottom of the sliding canopy. I didn't even sand these parts and the two mentioned parts bonded very strongly to the canopy. I would describe zap-a-dap as 'like' properties to Weldwood contact cement only in jell form: after drying over night, once you put two pieces of material together, it seems impossible to separate them.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 5/3/2008 1:48:33 AM >
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD 
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 
