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Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: online
tail feathers servo tray (cont)
pic 1/2: Homemade servo tray supports zap-a-dap'ed to the fuse side. The main tray supports are triangular shaped hardwood and the side supports and 1/8" ply. The servo tray is 1/4" thick ply. I used all socket head servo screws: they're easier for me to put in without having to put a lot of 'downward' pressure plus no worry about rounding out the heads as with phillip heads and then unable to get them out. Naturally, all holes are pre-drilled before putting in the screws.
pic 3: Before putting the servo tray on the mounts, I put all the leads into the receiver ports. All ports (save Aux 3) were used. For the most part, all wires are HD twisted wires.
pic 4/5: Servo tray screwed to tray mounts with three screws on each side. Definately need this servo tray removable with all the 'stuff' below and behind it. The two outside servos are the elevators and the center servo is the rudder/tail wheel servo. All are Hitec 645's giving each 133 oz torque at 6 v. I moved the left servo in to get it about the same distance from the center as the other outside elevator servo so their movement will be about equal. Also, this way both arms are facing the same direction (left of the servo). I could have put the left servo out farther and put the servo arm facing in but then I'd need a reverser. I'm also hoping that extra space on the left of the fuse will give me enough room to add an access door for switches and the fill valve.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/25/2008 11:07:48 PM >
Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: online
tail feathers servo tray (cont)
pic 1: Some 4-40 rod needs to be attached to each end of the CF rod. The theaded end will go into the elevator control horn and I put a 90 degree bend on the other end to insert into the hole drilled into the side of the CF rod about 1 3/8" from the end. I mixed up some epoxy and micro-balls to secure the two pieces together. I made the rods short to insure the end of the CF rod cannot 'catch' on the tail former.
pic 2: I had to put some notches in the tail former to make room for the CF rod.
pic 3: Here's one end of the CF rod finished and connected to the elevators. I also had to use the far end hole in the elevator control arm to give me some more room to clear the tail former. One note on the dubro #302 4-40 steel threaded rod ends: when threading the 4-40 rod into it, there is no bottom so the rod will screw into the control arm and prevent the arm from full movement.
pic 4: I taped the elevators in the horizontal position so I can accurately attach the other end to the servos. I also turned the transmitter and receiver on to insure the servos are properly aligned at neutral.
pic 5: I used the Dubro 4-40 swivel ball links (#861) and attached them to the servo arms (also did the center rudder/tail wheel arm). I drilled the holes in the servo arms smaller than the supplied ball links bolts and forced threaded the bolts into the holes and then lock-tited the supplied nuts to the end to insure no bolts become loose in the future. As with the other end, I used some 4-40 rod, screwed it into the swivel ball link and aligned the rod next to the CF rod so I could mark where to drill the hole and cut off the excess CF rod.
pic 6: More epoxy/micro-balls and the other end is complete.
pic 7/8: More than enough throw. The elevators are still dry fitted.
pic 9: view down the back of the fuse.
pic 10: Looks like there will be enough room for an access hatch along the side of the fuse for switches, etc.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/26/2008 7:05:19 PM >
Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: online
Tail feathers servo tray: rudder hookup (cont)
pic 1: I used some 4-40 full-threaded rod, blind nuts, regular nuts, dubro white plastic horn brackets (#559) and 4-40 pull-pull system (#518). The wire supplied is heavy duty plus it has a nice plastic coating on it (so don't try soldering it!). The 1/4" thick balsa blocks with the yellow tubing is to guide the wires through the fuse. The pull-pull system has the wire going into the back of the supplied metal tubing after looping through the supplied threaded rod with a hole it it. I found this to be nasty looking so I just looped the wire into the metal tubing from the front and then looped it back on itself from the back and then squeezed the tubing with some linesmens pliers (that explanation's probably as clear as mud!: check picture 5).
pic 2: Here's the set up on the rudder: threaded rod all the way through the rudder, two blind nuts to hold the threaded rod to the rudder, and two regular nuts to hold the white plastic horn bracket on the end of the rod. Locktite will be used to hold the nuts in place.
pic 3: I made the yellow guide tubing extra long so the wire will not rub against the last former in the tail. I just used a dremel and a small bit to drill out the angled hole in the balsa for the yellow flexible tubing.
pic 4: Here's the servo end. Ball sockets used.
pic 5: The rudder end. There's not much room between the threaded rod on the rudder to the hole in the side of the fuse so no clevises were used. Initially, I was going to put a ball link on the rudder but there wasn't enough side play, then I tried the clevis and found it would hit the hole in the fuse. Also, that big slot that I previously cut out isn't necessary as only a small slit is needed for the yellow tubing to go through the fuse.
pic 6: Here's the yellow tubing going past the former to prevent rubbing of the pull wires on the former.
pic 7: Looking down the inside of the fuse.
pic 8/9: Left/right movement is max'ed out.
Note: When turning on the JR 2.4 X9303, all the servos that I have, so far, connected, move the servo arm about 45 degees before going to neutral. I hope this doesn't cause the retracts to partially go up when this happens! I'll have to test this, later.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/27/2008 5:52:15 PM >
Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: online
Thanks, dude. She won't win any Masters but she'll look good from standing distance!
You're probably right on crossing the wires would give a better angle but that yellow tubing is guiding the wires so I don't think there will be any problem on binding or wear. The only negative I see on the pull-pull is when one wire pulls the rudder, the opposite wire rubs against the fuse. I guess I could put a longer full threaded 4-40 rod in or put a piece of that yellow tubing back there on the wire and let it float.
pic 1: To connect up the tail wheel steering, I used CF rod but a longer 4-40 wire so the end of the CF rod won't hit the back former in the fuse. I had to put a bend in the 4-40 wire because there's another fuse former just a few inches in front of the last former. Too hard to get in there to grind any of the former away and being just the tail wheel (with no large amount of torque needed), I figure a bend in the wire will work (I wouldn't do this on the elevators). I used the dubro socket connection. Ball socket connections are nice in that they allow lateral movement and there's no slop nor will they wear away the holes that they are connected to. When building the 'big' stuff: you want sturdiness and reliability (not to mention safety!).
pic 2: I used the outside hole to keep the tail wheel turn to a minimum.
pic 3/4: Left/right throws. I used a dubro 2.25" diameter wheel (mainly because that's what was on there, previously!).
pic 5: Side view with the tail wheel cover on. I used #2X3/8" screws to hold the cover on. MicroFaster sells the screws: 100 for $3.90.
pic 6: The servo end. The tail wheel control is the center CF rod.
pic 7: Looking down the inside of the fuse.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/28/2008 3:44:37 PM >
Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: online
tail feathers (cont)
pic 1/2/3: Today, it got up to 50 degrees so I took the fuse outside to do some sanding. Wet sanded (220 grit) the Evercoat easysand filler between the fuse and stab that I put on about two weeks ago.
pic 4: I was wrong on the pull-pull wire rubbing the side of the fuse. It's comes close, though!
Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: online
Wright Paterson Museum. Yesterday, several of us went to the air force museum for the day. http://www.wpafb.af.mil/museum/ Can't beat having one of the finest warbird museums in the world only 40 minutes away.
pic 1/2/3/4/5/6: Aerial view of the three very large buildings housing all the planes. Each building is dedicated to 1st building is early flight years thru to before WW II, 2nd building for WW II, and the last building has after WW II up to modern jets (XR-71, etc). pics of a full size texan.
mmm: looks like the downloads are a little darker than my originals making some pics hard to see. They have low lighting in there so pictures are more difficult to get (guessing the low lights are to reduce fading).
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/30/2008 6:18:20 PM >
Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: online
Access hatch (for two on/off switches, air fill/pressure gauge);
pic 1/2: I'm locating one of the access hatches on the right side. The hatch is 3"X4". I cut a slot in the top using two dremel cut off disks to give me the width for a piano hinge.
pic 4/5: After attaching the piano hinge, a razor saw was used to cut the other three sides. This method insures the hatch is perfectly aligned.
pic 6: Parts needed to re-inforce the hatch area. 1/16" ply for the fuse area around the hatch, 1/31" for stiffening the door, two magnets and two nail heads.
pic 7/8: The 'hatch stop' with magnets. Other side shows 1/32" ply added to keep the 'hatch stop' the proper distance from the fuse wall to allow the hatch to lay flush to the fuse when resting against the 'hatch stop'.
pic 9/10: The 1/32" ply zap-a-dap'ed to the door and the 'hatch stop' also glued in.
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RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 
