RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
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RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/4/2008 7:24:39 PM

samparfitt

Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online

Flaps (cont)

pic 1:
The center wing is FG so I had to use a dremel deburring bit to enlarge the hinge pocket hole and put in a recess for the set screw mount.

pic 2:
Hinge and pocket dry fitted.

pic 3:
flaps dry fitted to all wings.

pic 4:
After the usual axle grease on the set screw, I epoxied (with micro-balls) the pockets into the TE of the wings.

pic 5:
I left the hinges in the pockets to insure they are properly aligned.
Let the epoxy 'cook' for an hour or so and then I can remove the hinges and epoxy the hinges into the flaps.

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/4/2008 7:27:49 PM >

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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Post #: 101

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/5/2008 2:03:57 AM

samparfitt

Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online

Flaps (cont)

pic 1:
A 3 sided hole was cut in the heavy duty ply in the center wing and some 3/8" ply was epoxied to each side of the hole to raise the servo high enough to have the servo arm above the surface of the wing.
The right hole is for the gear servo.

pic 2:
A Hitec HS-5645 168 oz at 6v servo is used for the flaps.
Note that the servo arm is 'in line' with the push rod to the control horn on full down flaps to insure less stress on the gears versus having the arm at some other angle.
4-40 ball sockets at both ends.
Nothing fancy for the air valve since there's no inner doors to worry about.
I'll connect this up later.

pic 3:
On the transmitter, I needed 150% for flaps up and 137% for flaps down.
The X9303 has an extra long two position toggle switch for the flaps on the top left side of the transmitter.

pic 4:
Flaps up

pic 5:
Flaps 50% down (1st positon on the toggle).

pic 6:
Flaps 100% down (2nd position on the toggle)

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/5/2008 2:34:39 AM >

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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Post #: 102

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/5/2008 2:11:58 AM

ROGER RUSSELL

Posts: 947
Joined: 12/16/2001
From: Jacksonville, IL, USA
Status: offline

Samuel:
Could you please tell me what size Ziroli DUMMY Radial you are using?

Approx. weight. Thinking I might need he weight too, am using a G62 up front.

Thanks.

_____________________________

Remember to FLY HARD and LAND SOFT

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Post #: 103

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/5/2008 2:42:05 AM

samparfitt

Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online

Roger,
I didn't see any name on the package but the diameter is 9 1/4" across.
I checked Ziroli's catalog and didn't see this size: only 10 1/5" for the AT-6.
I'm guessing the 10 1/2" is the same.
It's cast so I'm guessing around 1.5 lbs.

< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/5/2008 2:43:29 AM >

_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

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Post #: 104

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/5/2008 12:40:24 PM

ROGER RUSSELL

Posts: 947
Joined: 12/16/2001
From: Jacksonville, IL, USA
Status: offline

quote:

pic 1:
A very heavy cast dummy radial from Ziroli.
This plane will need nose weight anyway (another good reason to use a bigger engine!).

Thanks, saw this in your first few post.

Appreciate the build thread, you are getting close to where mine is.

Hope to fly it sometime in 08 and make some warbird events with it.

Maybe meet up somewhere............LOL.................Fly formation

_____________________________

Remember to FLY HARD and LAND SOFT

(in reply to samparfitt)

Post #: 105

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/5/2008 1:53:43 PM

samparfitt

Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online

Roger,
I usually attend about 12 meets a year.
Muncie on Labor Day is tops on my list.

_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

(in reply to ROGER RUSSELL)

Post #: 106

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/5/2008 8:10:54 PM

samparfitt

Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online

Panel lines.

pic 1/2/3/4/5/6:
If I'm going to put landing lights in, I need to know what panel they go in.
I used the molded lines off the center FG panel wing to reference the location of the panel lines on the outer wings.
It took me three tries to get the rib lines on the ailerons correct: 1 7/8" between the lines with the last inner rib being a little closer to the edge of the aileron.
Later, I'll use some 1/32" wide chartpak tape and then put multiple primer coats along the tape.
The cartpak tape came from:
http://www.suppliesnet.com

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_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

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Post #: 107

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/6/2008 2:20:22 AM

samparfitt

Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online

Panel lines (cont)

pic 1/2:
Bottom panels lines are slightly different than the top.

-------------------
Retracts (cont)

pic 3:
Epoxy was missing between the main spar and the FG so before putting any lines in, I zap-a-dap'ed the inner ply to the outer FG on the center wing. Not sure if it was needed but I figured: it won't hurt!

pic 4:
I drilled three holes in the rib just below the gear mount to route the air lines and landing light wires.

pic 5:
I cut a slot in the retract ply and epoxied the air valve mount into the slot.

pic 6:
The servo screws hold the retract tray to the center wing.

pic 7:
Very little servo movement is needed: +50 and -11.
(top right in LCD screen)

pic 8:
Air lines connected to air valve and T's used to route to each retract.

pic 9:
Air lines routed through the previously drilled holes.

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_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

(in reply to samparfitt)

Post #: 108

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/6/2008 2:27:41 AM

samparfitt

Posts: 1667
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online

Retracts (cont)

pic 1:
I need to also route the landing light wires before putting in the wheel wells.
Here's my cordless drill.
It was the first cordless drill out on the market.
Very reliable, batteries never wear out and you have infinite variable speed control (also Y2K compatible!).
I need my cordless drill for those landing light wires that are all unraveled.

pic 2:
A vise and my cordless drill gives me a nice set of wires that are easy to route through holes.

pic 3:
The third hole gets the landing light wires.

pic 4/5:
I needed to route the air lines and wires through the center wing before epoxy'ing the wheel well into the wing,
since it appears that routing lines will be difficult to do after the wheel well is epoxied in.
(wheel well dry fitted in this pic)

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/6/2008 2:47:39 AM >

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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Post #: 109

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/6/2008 4:02:28 AM

johnnyo

Posts: 128
Joined: 4/20/2002
From: Overland Park, KS,
Status: offline

Samual, just a note, got your email, glad things will work out on the rudder cabels. I noticed your aerlerone set up. I used this same configuation to activate the aerlones on my true scale 1/5 T28 (100" wing). Works great, looks good, no linkage hanging out. Unfortuantly it really does not perform as well as you might think on these large models. I actually used 4/40 steel rods and brass sleaves with no slop in the rod to sleave, very tight fit, no slop. On the third flight we decided to do a bit of a high speed run down the field. lo and behold tremendous flutter from the aerlones. I am using 180oz digitals on these surfaces. Fortuantely do to my over built wing design the aircraft sustained no damage to the wing etc., slowed down and landed. Researching the problem we found that when the servo is in the nutural position there is no mechanical advantage on the servo arm, there is no load on the servo, thus the tiniest bit of slop in this position is going to give you problems. I have since installed conventional set up and have not had another problem. If you keep the T6 in a conservative flight mode you may not have a porblem, however, get the power up and the nose down for that impresive low fly-by. be ready. I know there are some large models being flown with this set up, such as Bob Pattons 120" T28, Bob is a very good but pretty conservative flyer and doesn't really push the his aircraft. So just a word to the wise, been there, done that.
Great build article
johnnyO

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Post #: 110

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/6/2008 5:12:09 AM

Spychalla Aircraft

Posts: 478
Joined: 1/9/2003
From: Watertown, WI, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: samparfitt

Primer (cont)

.....As you can see on the stab and outer wings, I did a p!ss poor job of glassing: lots of minor concave areas where the gray primer is left in those areas. The finishing resin was a little thick when applied and didn't flow as it normally does: Being in the basement, I probably should have nuked it in the microwave for a few seconds to warm it up before mixing the two parts.
Oh well: that's one of the reasons why primer is made!

G. Samuel,

I like your T-6 project. I noticed your comment on doing a poor job on glassing. I was taught a trick from a glider pilot about 10 years ago. It is probably the single most important trick I have ever learned in the hobby during the last 30 years. Do all your glassing exactly and you did then