RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD  
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RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/8/2008 4:59:42 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1740
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Nav lights (cont)

pic 1:
I drew up a schematic for the wiring.
The Ground from the battery goes to the switch via a plug so the center wing can be removed from the fuse.
The 'two battery' connection goes to each wing plus the cockpit (I decided to also add a few red LED's in there).
The 'three battery' connection goes to the rudder (not connected yet).

pic 2:
Here's the battery set up with the vertical wire going to the switch in the fuse and the lower two horizontal wires going to the outer wings.
I still need to secure all this 'stuff' into the center wing.

pic 3:
The connections to the wings.
I put green tape on these wires to easily identify them from the aileron wires.

pic 4:
The top right switch turns on the nav lights.
Using DPDT switches, I could have put the nav lights with the landing lights (left switch) but I want to be able to turn the nav lights on independent of the landing lights.
The DPDT switches are overkill but it doesn't hurt to have extra contacts available.

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/8/2008 5:01:20 PM >

_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

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       Post #: 126

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/9/2008 2:46:22 AM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1740
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Nav lights (cont)

pic 1:
The white LED is mounted in the rudder.
There is suppose to be two lights but I'm going with one.
If I didn't have the rudder already covered, I probably would put a second light in.
It was difficult enough 'fishing' the wires on a finished rudder.
Those pocket hinges already came in handy: there's no way I could have put that wire in the rudder while being attached to the fuse.
As with the other nav lights, I cut servo extension wires and used those.
Since there's little room to reach into the back of the fuse through the tail wheel, I made the extension extra long so I can make the connection outside of the fuse.

pic 2:
I put a wide enough slot in the rudder support so the extension connector will pass through the support.
After soldering the female connector on another set of wires, I 'fished' the wires down the inside of the fuse and put another extension connector on the other side of the wires. I used some double stick tape to hold the wires in place on the inside of the fuse.
These wires were connected to use three batteries.

pic 3/4:
Finally done with the nav light LED's.
The white light is very bright.
Now, I've got to mount the Nav light battery tray in the center wing.



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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/9/2008 2:47:17 AM >

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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       Post #: 127

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/10/2008 1:33:02 AM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1740
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Nav/landing lights battery tray.

pic 1/2/3:
I cut a hole in the bottom of the center wing just forward of CG and just behind the main spar.
This was where the air tanks were going to go but I'd rather have the battery tray forward of the CG and just move the light air tank to the fuse behind the cockpit.
I used the same procedures as making the main panel access hatch.
I got the piano hinge in and the 1/16" thick re-inforcement ply zap-a-dap'ed in.
By just tilting the plane on its nose, this will give me quick access to those batteries when they need changing.
I didn't want to set up any elaborate charging system since the batteries shouldn't need changing very often plus they aren't critical.

Didn't get much done today: went to a flea market: didn't buy much but it's always nice to BS with all my warbird buddies from other clubs in the tri-state area. Always fun to find out what they're building so I know what they'll probably be bringing to the warbird flyins, this summer.

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/10/2008 1:34:38 AM >

_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

(in reply to samparfitt)
       Post #: 128

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/10/2008 1:10:34 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1740
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Nav/landing lights tray (cont)

pic 1/2:
Battery tray is in and the hatch latch is attached.
I think the latch is from Yellow (or BVM).
I latch is not centered to give the latch enough room between two of the batteries (low clearance).
This will give me easy access to the nav/landing light batteries.
Velcro holds the 9v battery and the lips on each AA battery holder will hold those batteries in place.

pic 3:
I used some 1" square by 3/8" thick ply for risers and servo screws to hold the battery tray in.
I had to drill two holes on the right side to be able to put the far right screws in.
The holes are within the width of the fuse so they will not be seen.

pic 4:
The two wires on the left are for flaps and gear.
The four wires on the right are: to landing lights switch, to nav lights switch, to rudder LED, to cockpit LED's.
Since the center wing will remain with the fuse, this 'rats nest' will only have to be disconnected for maintenance.
I previous stated that this battery tray was just ahead of CG: the CG is on the main spar so the tray is just behind CG.

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/10/2008 1:17:39 PM >

_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

(in reply to samparfitt)
       Post #: 129

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/10/2008 3:53:29 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1740
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Paint scheme:

pic 1:
This morning I went to Home Depot.
I used my Ziroli AT-6 wing (the only thing left!) to get my colors.
They scan the color and computer generate the paint.
All Behr exterior, 100% latex paint.
From left to right:
flat black
No 743 silver (only one not special mixed)
yellow
red
primer green
olive drab (OD): not needed for this plane but the Yellow P-38.
88 bucks for 6 cans of paint.
The silver is the most expensive at $20, the rest are 11-12 dollars.

pic 2/3/4:
I've got 15 IMAA legal warbirds and none have any bright colors so I'm going with my old paint scheme.
I didn't find any brightly colored MARINE color schemes so I'm taking a 'painters liberty' and replacing NAVY with MARINE.

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/10/2008 3:56:26 PM >

_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

(in reply to samparfitt)
       Post #: 130

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/10/2008 4:04:37 PM   
mobyal


 

Posts: 782
Joined: 1/2/2006
From: Lexington, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I agree w/ your "edit", Sam. Just make sure "MARINES" is in good big letters!
S/F
Al

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MobyAl

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       Post #: 131

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/10/2008 4:09:33 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1740
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Sounds like a 'PLAN' to me!
I'm going to use some Badger Frisket film for making doing my masking when I paint the bars/stars, etc.
I haven't use this stuff yet but it looks like it should work.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX8246&P=ML


_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

(in reply to mobyal)
       Post #: 132

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/10/2008 4:15:49 PM   
mobyal


 

Posts: 782
Joined: 1/2/2006
From: Lexington, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Off topic a bit Sam, but I'm just finishing up -- in the trim stages now -- a 1/4 scale Monocoupe D145.
Do you think the friskit paper would work to mask off the cowl blisters and nose ring? I'm afriad I won't get a very good result if I try to use tape on the blisters and I'm looking for something easier anyway....
Or any other suggestions for ol' "Ten Thumbs" here...
Thanks
Al

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MobyAl

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       Post #: 133

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/10/2008 4:45:30 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1740
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Al,
Not sure how well the Frisket will go aroung sharp corners.
When doing really tight corners, I've used masking tape on a piece of glass and cut off very thin pieces with a razor blade and metal straight edge and then use tweezers and toothpicks to push it down.
I haven't used the Frisket yet but it may work like the masking tape.
The masking tape works well because it takes compound curves very well when it's only 1/32" wide or less.
It's more work using thin pieces but you get the tape exactly where you want it.
Except for flat surfaces, masking tape needs to be cut down to thin pieces to get good results.
Even flat surfaces should also have the one side cut to remove any fuzzies.
Also, buy 3M (or other high quality) masking tape found at your local auto store that has a paint department: stay away from the cheap 'big box' masking tape.
Also, for small detail pictures, modeler's paint work best because of the very fine pigment used in their paint.
You also might try this liquid mask:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXC099&P=M

< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/10/2008 5:08:13 PM >

_____________________________

G. Samuel Parfitt

(in reply to mobyal)
       Post #: 134

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/10/2008 10:31:45 PM   
johnnyo


 

Posts: 128
Joined: 4/20/2002
From: Overland Park, KS,
Status: offline 		Sam
This may help with your masks, go to www.getstencils.com. Used them on my competition T28 could not have been more satisfied. quick turn around and very reasonable price. You have to be careful with some frisks and they may leave a sticky residue that really affects the paint.
When masking off for paint stripes etc, the best tape to use is 3M 1/8" blue vynle. Found at your local Auto Paint store. Goes around curves, over rivets etc. When going over rivets, burnish it down around the a small piece of balsa.
JohnnyO

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(in reply to samparfitt)
       Post #: 135

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/10/2008 10:40:56 PM   
johnnyo


 

Posts: 128
Joined: 4/20/2002
From: Overland Park, KS,
Status: offline 		a few more of the process

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(in reply to johnnyo)
       Post #: 136

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD - 2/11/2008 6:08:39 PM   
lever02


 

Posts: 179
Joined: 2/13/2006
From: columbia