Posts: 575
Joined: 9/23/2004 From: Redondo Beach,
CA, USA Status: offline
i am using the Sig CA hinges that come with the kit. A buddy of mine uses CA hinges on his hog w/o any problems and he really throws his plane around the sky.
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"If your head is wax, don't walk in the sun." - B. Franklin
Posts: 2076
Joined: 10/3/2003 From: London Mills,
IL, USA Status: offline
Ya, this is only a 60 size Plane. You will wear the airframe out before you ever wear out those CA hinges. I have built two Hog Bipes and have used the stock CA hinges on both without any troubles or worries at all. If we were talking large 3D surfaces than I could maybe see exploring other options, but IMO the CA hinges are plenty adequate for this Plane.
Posts: 182
Joined: 6/16/2007 From: Westminster,
CO, USA Status: offline
CA easy hinges - that sounds way too easy guys. Would you stray from using them on a Somethin' Extra?
Broader issue: What determines when to use something else? Is the speed of the servo? Is it the throw of the control surface? Is it the size of the control surface (implicitly the size of the plane)? Is it the frequency of using the control surface (aerobatics)? Is it personal preference? I know - it's the sum of all of the above in one package.
Tia,
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Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Mayking,
KY, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: SeamusG
CA easy hinges - that sounds way too easy guys. Would you stray from using them on a Somethin' Extra?
Broader issue: What determines when to use something else? Is the speed of the servo? Is it the throw of the control surface? Is it the size of the control surface (implicitly the size of the plane)? Is it the frequency of using the control surface (aerobatics)? Is it personal preference? I know - it's the sum of all of the above in one package.
Tia,
I think it moslty hinges (sorry bout the pun) on the amount of throw on the control surface. Strength wise, they are just as strong as any other type in my opinion. However, when you start bending them, or stretching them, they could become weak.
Posts: 2076
Joined: 10/3/2003 From: London Mills,
IL, USA Status: offline
You can install Robarts or other plastic type pinned hinges if you feel more comfortable doing so, but usually hinges like this are more beneficial in larger Planes, and those with larger surfaces, or certain Planes where surface flutter is a possible or known trait of the Plane. Also 3D type Planes of all sizes where you have a large amount of deflection on the surfaces. Even though the Hog is not a Scale Plane, its surfaces are however pretty much scale in size to what would be expected for a barn storming Bipe like this in this size, and I don't think you will ever regret using the CA hinges as long you install them right. However if you prefer to use something else, than there would be no problem there either if you felt better using something else.
Posts: 509
Joined: 6/26/2005 From: Central,
IN, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: SeamusG
MA - As I understand what you just said ... pre-assemble 1/2 of the wing covering on the table (glass) - both top and bottom, both base and trim panels - into 1 (one, einse, uno) piece. Then apply this single sheet (maybe) top first then flip over and then the bottom? In your scheme the sheet would have orange and white panels making the top half joined with black and white panels that make up the bottom half.
Sort of ...
I will do the bottom of the wings first. I will likely do the stripes as individual sheets - this is what I did on my SSE that I covered this way. The tops, will be done as "assembled" sheets of multi-color. I will take pics once I start that process. Was that any clearer than my original? I've been on the road all day and this may only make sense to me ...
-MA
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"Few good landings result from poor approaches, while few poor landings result from good approaches." -S. Stoops
Posts: 575
Joined: 9/23/2004 From: Redondo Beach,
CA, USA Status: offline
POOP! my top left aileron is binding...BAD!! I can only get about 7/16" deflection out of it in the down direction . I think I found the problem area and will have to carefully remove a bit of material to get everything right. I usually gap the control surfaces on my sport planes at 1/64" without any problems. I gapped all the surfaces on this plane just like that and they all are great except that one aileron and only in the down direction...DANGIT!! I guess i should have triple-checked the shape before covering...
The only things i have left to do before flying are: (1) attach throttle control rod to servo, (2) permanently install receiver and battery, (3) break in engine (4) fix that crappy aileron - and it will be ready to rock!
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"If your head is wax, don't walk in the sun." - B. Franklin
Posts: 509
Joined: 6/26/2005 From: Central,
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quote:
ORIGINAL: MasterAlex
... I wrapped up the tail feathers yesterday and stopped just before epoxing on the horizontal stab. The stab is not quite level with the wings, so I'll have to fix that before going on - nothing terrible, but must be corrected. I leave for a week long business trip, so no building updates this week...
As I mentioned last weekend, I wrapped up the tail feathers. This was a fairly simple set of steps, with an equally fair amount of sanding/shaping to go with it. The creation of the horizontal stab was very easy (picture1). Building over the plans was a snap. You have to edge glue two smaller sheets in order to create the proper sized sheeting for the finished Stab (picture2). I trued up the edges, and titebonded them together before sanding the sheets smooth. I used titebond to glue the sheets to the Stab.
The elevators shown in Picture2 have been sanded and shaped according to the plans. I ended up using a scroll saw to get them close to the right shape and sanded the rest of the way.
Next I added the Elevator Joiner Wire to the two elevator halves. I marked each piece according to the plans and used a little pin drill to get pilot holes started. From there, I drilled the proper sized hole in the elevator to take the joiner. At this point, I inserted the joiner wire and marked the outer edges of the wire on the elevators so I knew where to cutaway in order for the wire to sit flush with the leading edge (picture3). Once both elevators were prep’d I epoxied in the joiner wire and pinned directly over the plans to keep straight.
You’ll remember I finished the Fin/Rudder earlier so I was effectively ready for the next step.
Before putting on the Stab and aligning and gluing that onto the Fuse, I decided to take a page out of my SSE build where you shape the filler blocks on a jig. I decided that I’d give that method a try here on the Hog. In order to do this properly, I built a jig like you see in picture5. I tack glued the balsa blocks to the jig, placed it on the tail and marked it (picture6). My razor plane made quick rough work of the blocks. Afterwards I hit it with my 100 grit sanding block and it was close. I shaped it a bit more with 220 grit paper and was left with the results you seen in Picture7. It was only a matter of sliding a screwdriver between the filler and the jig to pop them free.
Picture1 – Horizontal Stabilizer built up over the plans. Picture2 – Finished Horizontal Stab, after sheeting Picture3 – Joiner wire inserted and cutouts marked for dremel work Picture4 – Before and after shots of the elevator Picture5 – Jig to shape/sand filler blocks Picture6 – Balsa blocks on the Jig – one side shaped, the other has not. Notice the outline of F8 on the block Picture7 – Finished blocks (still on jig) positioned appropriately on the tail Picture8 – Filler blocks popped off the jig and positioned
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"Few good landings result from poor approaches, while few poor landings result from good approaches." -S. Stoops
Posts: 509
Joined: 6/26/2005 From: Central,
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Now that the Stab, Fin and balsa filler were done, I dry fitted the whole tail assembly onto the Fuse. You can see from Pictures1, 2 and 3 that everything is fitting together nicely.
Unfortunately, not perfectly.
Look at Picture4, you can see that the Horizontal Stab slopes a bit to the right (the right side is lower than the left). I will have to correct this before epoxying the Stab onto the Fuse. Before correcting this problem, I followed the instructions and found the proper alignment of the tips of the Stab to the trailing edge of the bottom wing. Once positive of the positioning, I clamped the Stab and marked the underside so I could easily re-position when I got around to epoxying.
From there, I started to carefully sand the left side of the Stab platform periodically checking to see how close I was to getting the Stab level with the bottom wing. This is somewhat of an “eyeball” process, but you can see in Picture5 how much better the Stab matches the bottom wing after a little TLC on the Stab Platform.
BTW, my Orange UC showed up Friday so I have the proper covering and can start soon. I will epoxy on the Fin later this afternoon and will then be ready to start covering (after a bit of sanding). Also, I bought some Orange paint today at the hardware store – not sure of the “match” to UC. If its way off, I may end up shaping some scrap balsa into the headrest and covering with UC – we’ll see, the Jury’s still out.
Picture1 – Tail Assembly dry fit Picture2 – Tail Assembly dry fit Picture3 - Tail Assembly dry fit Picture4 – Not a perfect fit … I’ll have to lower the left side to make it even Picture5 – Stab fits much better … this has been epoxied and is now curing
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"Few good landings result from poor approaches, while few poor landings result from good approaches." -S. Stoops
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RE: Sig Hog Bipe - 
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