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ORIGINAL: JKEpps

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ORIGINAL: daven

I'm surprised you were able to wax over the PVA without it pealing up?? How did you do that?

Parts look nice

I had success and failure with that. My plan was to apply three coats of wax, but after the second one, or actually during buffing it out, the PVA started to peel a little. I decided to quit while I was ahead. I used a soft terry cloth towel to buff out the wax. I used Mother's Carnauba paste wax, and let it dry for apx 30 min. I wonder if I use the Mequire's liquid Carnauba wax if maybe I could get the three coats before the PVA lifts.

Speaking of PVA. I did have a couple of areas that didn't come out exactly correct because the PVA puddled on the bottom of the mold. I didn't see it at the time. Now I know not to set the mold in a position for the PVA to puddle. Setting it upside down did allow it to dry nice and even.

-Jorden

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ORIGINAL: TeamSeacats

No kiddin'. You absolutely don't need to wax the PVA. When I make polyester parts, the PVA will stick lightly about half and half to the mold and to the part and can usually be peeled off. When making epoxy parts, the PVA bonds slightly to the epoxy - a little water though and it washes off right away leaving a very shiny surface. I use two coats of wax on the mold (three or four for the first part or two) and then PVA in three coats - first a very light mist coat followed by two solid coats that stop just barely short of laying down a smooth layer of paint. Stop spraying just before the PVA starts to look smooth and leave it just a little orange peeled - it will lay down as it dries. Too much will leave bubbles.