RMG2
Posts: 516
Joined: 8/13/2004 From: Private,
OR, USA Status: online
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ORIGINAL: UTM Afternoon all! Hope you are all having a good day. For the sake of discussion and my own curosity I thought I'd ask all to weigh in on your personal prefrences for setup on your FP helis. As I've said before I am anel about setup and am always trying to find a new edge to increase my preformance without breaking the bank. I'll start Falcon 40 stock blades secured tightly enough that they don't spin out on their own but do fold in the event of a strike. Takes a little longer to get them right preflight but do provide a vibration free disk. Stock flybar with weights 1" out from the hub. Stock paddles at 0 pitch. stock tail rotor and gear Stock canopy Eflight CPP 370 brushed motor with 11t pinion Eflight CPP tail motor Eflight CPP 12" tail boom Superskids with modified tail support(CF tubing instead of the flexy vinyl covering it comes with) ala Mark 2s 900mah 15C batt 49g I run this light batt as far forward as I can get it inside the canopy. I've set my swash level in the elevator position but about 5 degrees right in the aler. position HiTech HS-55 servos using the 3 hole horn with links in center hole. It seem to get me closest to a straight shot up the the swash that way. Still with stock radio gear but am planning on going to 2.4 (when my wife lets me buy a DX6 ) when that happens I'll go to a CPP 3-1 and an AR6200 rx This setup provides a pretty stable hover, decent cyclic response, not too bad FF but I think I will take RMG's advice and move the COG forward soon, and about 11min +/- flight time. I have better tail authroity with the 12" boom over stock but it does cause COG issues. I now have a quarter taped inside the nose of the canopy. I have a LoongMax 2s 1200 mah 20C battery on back order. It weighs in at right around 90g so hopefully I can loose the quarter, push the battery back a little and otherwise balance out the COG naturally(without ballast) as well as having the ability to adjust the battery position to shift COG for whatever type of flying I will be doing that day. Don't feel like you all need to report if you don't feel the need. I am just curious as to how everybody flies and maybe I can pick up some good ideas for my bird in the process. Happy hovering. Uli. for sake of conversation, and learning for those following in our FP footsteps I'll add to your setup request. *Esky Honey Bee Fixed Pitch (FP). *Spektrum DX6i Transmitter. A computer TX adds much functionality, and tunability to your heli. *Spektrum AR6100e Receiver. Mounted under the frame rearward on the heli for better reception. *Eflite CP Pro 3-1 Mixing Unit. Mounted forward where the stock 4-1 use to be mounted. *Esky Heading-Hold Gyro. Mounted rearward facing the tail. *GForce 7.4V 2S 1300MAH 20C Battery. *Team Orion Slo-Max 300 Main Motor (brushed). *7.5AMP Mini-Auto Fuse Modification. Add fuse in-line of positive (red wire) motor lead to protect 3-1 or 4-1 from being fried in a crash. *Kyosho M24 Main Blades. *Custom Aluminum Head Stiffner & Doubled Stock Lower Stiffner. Have to increase the length of the blade mounting bosses on the head to achieve support for the lower stiffner using the M24's. *Eflite CP Pro Tail Motor (same as stock). *Century Hummingbird "Long" Tail Rotor Blade (1/2" longer than stock blade). *Paddle/Flybar Modification. I run a 2-piece flyar with no weights and slighlty lightened, glued on paddles. *Eflite CP Pro Skids. Bolt-through modification to keep skids mounted solid to the frame. *Eflite CP Pro Battery Tray/Rails. Modified to fit with stock landing gear assembly so the battery sits forward of the stock position and under the 3-1 or 4-1 unit. *Esky King II Canopy. *A number of minor modifications to tie everything together or improve on stock durability, or functionality. *All-Up-Weight is 300grams (actually weighed). The biggest problem we have with forward flight flying a fixed pitch is the heli's tendency to Pitch-up (nose going up). Pitch-up is especially bad when flying directly into the wind! From my own observations modding, and flying the FP outdoors I have my own thoughts about the most important mods. to help combat pitch-up in fast forward flight. Mods. to help with pitch-up in order of importance (my own thoughts): 1, Momentum... Keeping the FP moving forward with the nose down is the key to outdoor fast forward flight, especially in the wind. 2, Correct Outdoor Flight Weight... To little weight makes the FP nearly un-flyable in the wind, too much weight and the heli suffers from power and lift issues. 3, Increased Head Speed... Combine the right blade with the right gear ratio. 4, Better Blades... The M24's are much better in the wind then any others I have experimented with. 5, Paddle Angle... I run -2 degrees on the paddles which I believe helps overcome the pitch-up issue. 6, Level Swash Plate... Slight swash changes show in fast forward flight. 7, Balance... Slight weight-forward center-of-gravity helps the FP with outdoor fast forward flight. Hope some of this rambling helps some one coming along with their first single rotor heli.
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