RE: WH Giles G202 40%  
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RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 1/30/2008 12:12:24 AM   
flatlandmike



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I'm not going to bash it. I'm merely going to fly it hard and to within an inch of its life. Thats all .

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Special thanx to The Crew Mike B. Jim Z. Ed J. Jim S.

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       Post #: 51

RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 1/30/2008 1:27:41 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

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If all of you manage to survive the expedition, please let us know how it all worked out with balances and control deflections. Makes life a lot easier for those to follow

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If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

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       Post #: 52

RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 1/31/2008 3:48:29 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

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Landing Gear

Some may be wondering how the gear will work out with headers and cans. No worries. The gear is externally mounted with only 4 cap heads protruding into the can tunnel. The direction you run the cap screws would influence things for sure. There's enough room to make a fist and put in in the tunnel so space or cramped working quarters is not an issue.

The screws in the basic hardware are 8-32, but the holes in the gear and aluminum angle were pretty tight. I would have needed to thread the screws through but a quick pass with a drill bit fixed things right up. A very easy installation.

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_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 53

RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 1/31/2008 3:58:32 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

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Hatch Fit

The canopy hatch is a real nice fit on this airplane but may be a little snug when it comes out of the box. If yours seems too tight a fit or is difficult to remove and install the simple solution is to open up the aft end of the receiver slots on the fuselage deck. There are four of these slots and it only takes a couple of passes with a file or sandpaper to make things perfect. Don't get carried away and take too much if you do this.




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_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 54

RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 1/31/2008 6:10:42 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

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Tailwheel

We've all done these before but just for continuity I've tossed it in anyway.

The kit provided tailwheel will work just fine, especially if you're using an engine other than a DA 85 or a BME. It will be a good idea to remove the tailwheel from the bar and file a flat on the rod where the wheel collar set screws will hit. After reinstalling the tailwheel and wheel collars use some green Locktite on the set screws. If you're dead anal about weight you can spend a fortune for a carbon tailwheel. Unfortunately the guy that used to make the best ones isn't doing them anymore. If you need more tailweight when all's said and done you can spend another fortune and get a large Ohio Superstar tailwheel of the same type. They're heavy mothers.

The "U" in the aluminum tailwheel clamps are a shade larger than the diameter of the tailwheel rod. This could permit the metal bar to rattle against the aluminum clamps. If you have some large diameter glow fuel tubing cut two pieces about 3/8" long and side them onto the rod. Position them where the clamps will make contact. You end up with a tight, vibration free installation. If you don't have any call one of the slimer flyers at the field. be real nice, and con him out of an inch of the stuff.

The flat oblong plate you have left over attaches to the bottom of the rudder so you can connect the tailwheel springs to the tailwheel. All the landing gear appears to be plenty tough for this plane.

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_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 55

RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 2/3/2008 6:03:54 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

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Control Linkage Installation

Been a bit busy with other things so I got behind. Started setting up the linkages this evening. I've opted for one fuselage mounted rudder servo for now, dual aileron servos, and the usual twin elevator servos. Since the weather sucks and it does not make for a happy trip to visit a guy with a servo programmer I'm using Matchboxes for the set up since I have them. Elevator servos are mounted in the elevators so linkage runs are real short regardless of with way the servo output shaft is facing.

For the ailerons, if the servos are positioned in the wing with the output shafts aft towards the ailerons those that want to use Pro Links will be able to do so. The length will be 2-1/2" and you will need four of them. If you tail mount the rudder servo(s) the use of Pro Links will not be possible due to the length.

If you don't mind a little bit more effort and like to keep money in your wallet you can use Tom's "make your own" linkage method and come out smelling like a rose. Using linkage set up at the 1-1/8" point from the servo output shaft to the ball link and the same 1-1/8" up from the aileron hinge center line you will obtain 40 degrees (or more) of aileron travel at max deflections. A 1-1/4" distance from the aileron hinge line will be a lot better, along with adjusting inwards on the servo arm. You just don't need 40-50 degrees of aileron deflection. Mount the servo horn ball links on the bottom of the servo ams or they will bind on the arm at max deflections. The same is true at the elevators. I'll post some pictures of the process tomorrow.

I'm going to repeat something about linkage set ups that I've said a few times before but it's worth saying again. If you intend to gang servos together or opertae mulitple servos on a single surface obtian a volt and amp meter. Hanger 9 sells one for a bit over $20.00. That small investment will get used over and over again every time you set up a plane that uses multiple servos on a surface and it will save your plane, your servos, or both. It will also let you know how much load a single servo is carrying so it's a real cheap investment with an extremely high rate of return. There's no way you can know what your servos are doing without one, and $20.00 to save a plane and servo or two is cheap insurance.

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< Message edited by Pat Roy -- 2/3/2008 5:41:42 PM >


_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

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RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 2/3/2008 3:38:25 PM   
rctom



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quote:


I'm going to repeat something about linkage set ups that I've said a few times before but it's worth saying again. If you intend to gang servos together or opertae mulitple servos on a single surface obtian a volt and amp meter. Hanger 9 sells one for a bit over $20.00. That small investment will get used over and over again every time you set up a plane that uses multiple servos on a surface and it will save your plane, your servos, or both. It will also let you know how much load a single servo is carrying so it's a real cheap investment with an extremely high rate of return. There's no way you can know what your servos are doing without one, and $20.00 to save a plane and servo or two is cheap insurance.


Pat's correct about this of course, but I was setting up a wing yesterday and tried a new strategy that also seems to work.

First I set up the outher servo the way I wanted it. Then I started working on the inner servo. I got the center points to match, then using the transmitter I moved the aileron to full extent and adjusted the length of the control horn by screwing it up and down on the stud so that the end point matchged in one direction.

I then attached the ball link to the arm, loosely. This is the point where you would use the meter if you have one. I did not have one handy, instead I pushed the controls to their end point and checked to see that the loose connection was still loose. I was able to move the ball link up and down on the attaching screw, telling me that the two servos were synchronised as much as they could be.

As an insurance step I also now use Hitec 985 servos on ailerons on 35% planes, these are great servos and do not suffer as much as digitals in the case of a slight misalignment.

I also plane to try using 4 channels for aileron servos, I'll see if I can make that work on my x9303.

TF

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RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 2/3/2008 5:17:16 PM   
sailing1


 

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Or if you are using HiTec digitals you can just use the programmer and a ruller and make sure everything is exactly as it should be. My Futaba 12fg also allows you set up servos in groups and adjust the center, end point and speed so you can do it that way also. It uses up a lot of channels, but hey it has 12 of them and they are assignable so what the heck. I would guess the new JR radios have the same features. But in the end I a have to agree with Pat -- the meter doesn't lie and it is also nice to know that you are getting full power to each of your servos.

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RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 2/3/2008 5:57:54 PM   
Tired Old Man


 

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For those radios that permit reasonably exact sevo matching there are definately some advantages. So far the only one that I know will do that is the JR 10x, but I have no experience with the new high end Futabas. However, as noted you can use up a lot of receiver ports in a big hurry

Using the transmitter to gang servos let's you keep the amperage thorugh the connector plugs down at the receiver or even at a Matchbox, which is a good thing. Although I've never seen a condition where a connector heated up and melted from too much amperage the unverified horror stories maintain a level of concern. I'm with Tom about servos pulling far less amperage that people think. Most people are guessing at what a servo will draw based upon the total number of servos used mulitplied by the servo's stalled amperage. This has always sounded a bit silly to me since I don't know anybody that deliberately sets up a servo to stall at full deflection. Those that do must be insane.


When I set up a ganged pair of 8611's the end result with only the flight surface as a load generally comes out to .4 amps or less for both servos combined. The neutral current for a matched pair is usually zero to .02. The same is true for this pair of 5955's, and I can't for the life of me understand how that can be multipled by more than a factor of 10 from aerodynamic loading to increase the amperage to a point where a single connector from a Matchbox will be heated up to it's melting point.

Matter of fact, at full 3d deflection holds, this pair of servos indicated a zero amperage draw when fully deflected, with current draw through both sides of travel to be under .3. Agreed there is no aerodynamic load but at full deflections they most certainly are not stalled.

_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

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RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 2/4/2008 5:01:28 AM   
SukhoiKid



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I flew this airplane today and it handle VERY well. The harriers were rock solid and rolls were perfect. I should have a video of the flight I did with it later this week. Thanks for letting me fly it and test it out today!!!!


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Team Kamakazi and Team OMP
Kevin Garland

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RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 2/4/2008 5:33:33 PM   
VinceY



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I flew this plane yesterday and I love it! It's a keeper! Harriers are simple, torque rolls are easy, and elevators are hands off. Hold the elevator full up and the plane sinks almost straight down with no rock. Rolls are very axial, like a Yak or 260. These are first flights! Things will only get better as Basedit get everything fine tuned.

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RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 2/4/2008 5:40:39 PM   
rctom



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I sure wish people would sign their posts with their real names so I can relate to who is doing what!



TF

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RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 2/4/2008 8:27:41 PM   
Tired Old Man


 

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Mine's not up yet so it's not the one on the west coast. Getting close though.

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If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

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RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 2/5/2008 1:08:43 AM