Tired Old Man
Posts: 11533
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline
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OK, I finally have the full assembly completed and all the good stuf inside is in. I'll do some pictures of the pick up bed fit and some linkage installations tomorrow.
In the mean time I suppose I can relate some of the assembly process and a couple of extremely minor fit issues I had with this one. The wing tube and tube sockets were a bit tight for the main wing. This required that I wrap a 3/4" dowel with seme 80 grit sandpaper and pass it throught the wing and fuselage sockets a few times using trial and error fitting until the carbon tube slid through without much resistance. Total time: about 15-20 minutes. The aft wing locator dowels were a bit snug on the aft side of the holes so a quick pass with a round file straightened them out. Total time: 5 minutes. That pretty much covers all the fit issues. Pretty much a bunch of nothin' when it comes to fit problems 
Those of you that intend to tail mount a rudder servo or two should make a note of this part. The elevators of a Giles do not have as much of an angular cut on the inside end as Extras, Yaks, and Edges. Due to this the linkage rod from the rudder servo to the elevators could easily end up in a bind with the elevators if you have the rudder horn screw too long or the clevis connection too far out on the screw shaft. If the rudder horn screw is left too long it will hang up on an elevator. It's easy to avoid.
All you need to do is set up the rudder linkage at no more than 1-9/16" out from the center of the rudder hinge point. Cut the screw shaft off short enough that it won't make contact at various deflections. The closest the linkage rod will come to the inside of the elevator sweep will be at neutral so if you miss there you will miss everywhere. If you set the rudder linkage up at 1-1/8 from the hinge line and 1-1/8" at the servo horn you will be guaranteed a minimum of 45 degrees of rudder travel, and probably more depending on how you have your transmitter travel adjust set up.
Using the same linkage mounting dimensions on the elevators will yield between 50 and 55 degrees of elevator travel at max deflections. You definately are not limited on surface travels with this plane.
As has been already noted, ball links should be installed at the inner side of the servo arms at the ailerons and elevators. If you install them on the outer side of the arms they will most definately bind on the servo arm at max deflection angles, limiting travels and inducing high current draws. No biggie but I thought I would save you some set up time by catching this in advance.
Depending on where you install the receiver, the longest servo extension you will need for the plane is 36". I installed my receiver where you would normally install the rudder servos for a pull-pull installation. Using that location, for a two servo aileron installation it takes a 24 and a 36" extension for each wing. For a tail mounted rudder installation it will take a 36" extension for each servo. For the elevators you might get by with 24" extensions but 36" assures there will be no problems.
Where you install the throttle servo and the ignition battery will determine what you need for extension lengths there. Using the stock ignition switch position (forward on the fuselage side) and installing the ignition battery on the deck directly aft of the cannister tunnel required a 6" extension for the ignition switch. Not the best idea, hard wiring would be better but what the heck. I installed the throttle servo to the right and just forward of the gas tank, requiring about 18" of servo extension to make the receiver.
All the basic hardware that arrives with the plane fit just fine and are appropriate for the locations. You won't need anything extra in that department. Note that the basic hardware does not include stuff like axles, dura collars, gas tanks, fuel line, fuel dots, wheels, fuel tees, clevises and horns, and things of that nature. Tom's accessory hardware pack will save a lot of time and gas money if you get it all when you order the plane. I prefer his new line of ball link hardware to anything else that's available. Since I used a tail mounted rudder servo there was no concern about rudder horn offsets so a 10-32 ball link and horn screw is perfect in that application. If you went with a dual rudder servo installation the same parts would work perfectly on the other side. You don't need pro Links if you obtain his hardware pack. The tubes and rods included are plenty stong for the job.
I don't have a clue where the plane is supposed to balance yet but I'll see where it came out naturally tomorrow and go from there. Dial in the surface travels and fine tune the wiring installation and she should be ready for weight checks and flying on Wednesday. I didn't do anything special to save weight so this could be viewed as an average installation using a 100cc twin up front. At the moment it has a single 5,200 mAh Lithion battery for the receiver but there is a mounting provision for a second if I need weight or more juice. I doubt I'll need more juice.
Still no wrinkles 
< Message edited by Pat Roy -- 2/10/2008 6:38:29 AM >
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If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic >> WildHare R/C Support >> RE: WH Giles G202 40% 
RE: WH Giles G202 40% - 
I flew Altavillan's Yak ( and RTK's Sukhoi) yesterday and I have to admit it looked a lot better with a pilot in the canopy. Mighty nice of them to let someone fly their planes that hasn't done R/C is 6 months. I don't know if I would have the same amount of trust and confidence.