BVM Mig 15
- Kit
Seller:aparchment Details:
$2,200.00
| 9/28/2008
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Posts: 334
Joined: 10/17/2004 From: Yorktown,
VA, USA Status: offline
With the smart fly system I had to add two pieces of 1/4” hardwood to the radio tray to have a place to screw the Smart fly board to.
Next I screwed the smart fly down and started to plug stuff into the receiver.
A-FIBER OPTIC KILL SWITCH B-THROTTLE C-AUX1/LEFT AILERON D-RUDDER E-ELEVATOR F-RIGHT AILERON G-SMOKE H-BATTERY Ran out of channels, looks like I’ll have to run a manual choke. I’m still not fully decided on this.
I mounted the remote receiver on the left side of the turtle deck.
< Message edited by bmadden -- 1/20/2008 2:42:06 AM >
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Posts: 334
Joined: 10/17/2004 From: Yorktown,
VA, USA Status: offline
What do you guys think of this? I could run the choke on a Y cable with the ignition cut off system and mix the two. When the ignition is off the choke will be on, when the ignition is on, the choke will be off. I wonder how difficult it will be to start having to guess at the priming.
OR
I can run the servo lead to a charge jack on the side of the airplane. I can hook my servo programmer to the lead and use it to actuate the servo and turn on the choke on and off. Dose any one know a simpler way to actuate the servo without a receiver?
OR
I can stop making this so complicated and just use a pushrod and my hand.
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Look man, I’m not necessarily smart; I just hang around smart people!
Posts: 2007
Joined: 12/5/2001 From: Issaquah, WA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: bmadden I can stop making this so complicated and just use a pushrod and my hand.
Keep it simple and use a manual choke! However, I see that you don't have a separate ignition kill on this list. I use manual chokes and a fiber optic ignition kill in all of my gassers. I really like the safety features of the FO kill switches...
Posts: 382
Joined: 9/19/2003 From: Tucson,
AZ, USA Status: offline
The Pacer (Zap) Hinge Glue is not the same as Gorilla glue.
I know the more experienced gasoline guys use a manual choke system and have nothing hanging off the choke arm. I see them use a pair of forcepts to actuate/deactuate the choke. To have a servo on there only adds another failure point that would cause a dead stick.
Is the FO kills switch really necessary? Isn't it another failure point?
Posts: 48
Joined: 5/13/2006 From: middleton, ID, USA Status: offline
Got two of them also cant beat the price!!! 1st one will get a Brison 5.8 the second a 3w 85xics. Ive ordered 8 5985's a TME smoke pump. All extensions and MPI servo arms for one plane. The other will have to wait for $$$. a123racing 2300mah X 2 for reciever, fromeco 2600 relion to run ignition and smoke pump. JR 9303 2.4 for navigation. 2 fromeco badger switches 1 wolverine switch. one plane will be stricktly for IMAC and one for freestyle. will get started on the builds soon and will participate in this thread and by the way thanks for starting it.
Posts: 334
Joined: 10/17/2004 From: Yorktown,
VA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: les40
I know the more experienced gasoline guys use a manual choke system and have nothing hanging off the choke arm. I see them use a pair of forcepts to actuate/deactuate the choke. To have a servo on there only adds another failure point that would cause a dead stick.
Is the FO kills switch really necessary? Isn't it another failure point?
Hey Les, In my opinion (witch ‘aint worth much to a lot of people) the long list of safety features is worth the trade off of additional weight and possible failure (I think the chances are very slim) of the fiber optic system. It looks to be a very solid system and if it fails it will most likely be due to some sort of receiver failure. In that case the engine running is the last of my worries. My chief concern is, not having to run to the airplane to shut it off. I could not imagine the throttle linkage or servo failing and this thing running toward a person with that 26” machete swinging around up front and I am left to do nothing but watch. God forbid. I pasted the “why have its” from the manual below.
Why use an ignition cutoff? The main reason for installing an ignition cutoff device is safety. The unit provides several levels of safety to both the pilot and the spectators. First, if the radio system is not turned on but the ignition system is turned on the Ignition Cutoff prevents the engine from starting. This prevents an engine from starting at a high throttle position, which could possibly allow the plane to get away and into a crowd or other planes in the pit area. The second reason is safety while in the air. If you were to lose power to the receiver because of a dead battery or a broken wire, your plane is going to go where it wants at the throttle setting that you had just before the power loss. This could be any direction. It could just fly off into the sunset until it runs out of gas or, worse, it could be headed towards other pilots and spectators. With the Ignition Cutoff in the plane the engine will be cut when power is lost. This means the propeller will not be spinning when the plane hits, what ever it hits, and the speed is reduced. Lastly, the Ignition Cutoff provides a means of cutting the engine if anything happens to the throttle servo or linkage. Rather than fly until your tank runs out you can now bring the plane in quickly and safely.
I’d rather trash the $300 air frame and save the $2000 of stuff inside.
As for the manual choke, you are correct. I am a big fan of the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple or stupid) method. My biggest reason for presenting those ideas was to promote thought and dialog on this thread. Nothing we modelers love to do more than pontificate! (I love that word) By the way, may I say that we are working on page 4 without a single argument? I think we should get a “most civil thread award”. Any way, like I was saying, you are correct. The 50cc plane I have has a manual choke. Thing is, I can get at it through the cowl. Looks like this set up will have the carb. inside the airframe with no way to get at it with forceps. Truth is if I cannot set up a practical manual pushrod system, the smoke will have to go. That is all hard to determine without the engine to mount and look at.
Below are some pics. of my Brillelli powered baby.
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Look man, I’m not necessarily smart; I just hang around smart people!
Posts: 334
Joined: 10/17/2004 From: Yorktown,
VA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Cooper 1
Got two of them also cant beat the price!!! 1st one will get a Brison 5.8 the second a 3w 85xics. Ive ordered 8 5985's a TME smoke pump. All extensions and MPI servo arms for one plane. The other will have to wait for $$$. a123racing 2300mah X 2 for reciever, fromeco 2600 relion to run ignition and smoke pump. JR 9303 2.4 for navigation. 2 fromeco badger switches 1 wolverine switch. one plane will be stricktly for IMAC and one for freestyle. will get started on the builds soon and will participate in this thread and by the way thanks for starting it.
Do you run your smoke and ignition off of one battery.? If so, how's that work for you?
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Look man, I’m not necessarily smart; I just hang around smart people!
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> ARF or RTF >> RE: Lanier Edge 540 ARF 94" 80cc for 400$ 
RE: Lanier Edge 540 ARF 94" 80cc for 400$ - 
Carry on! 
