Mustang Exhaust
- Kit
Seller:tony-howard Details:
$35.00
| 9/21/2008
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Posts: 141
Joined: 8/26/2006 From: Fremont,
MI, USA Status: offline
1/5 Dawg
Ken,Chic: I can't beleive the terrific ideas you come up with and the scale detail is something else. I just hope mine flies and looks decent.
Pic of my progress to date. The stab/fin are just setting there so that I could see how things were looking. Tail feathers are just framed, waiting for better weather. I have to do my shaving and sanding outside, mama wants KNOW dust in the house. Had to reenforce both crouch pieces at the end of the fuse side, one broke and the other was really weak and wouldn't hold a nice curve. This seemed like a really weak area, but now with the top and side stringers in place its a lot better. You didn't do anything special in this area for added support, did you? The bottom of the fuse is still open so I can run my control rods. Made a couple misstakes but was able to fix them. Will work on gear plate area, and control rods next. Did you just add some angle stock on the fuse sides to mount your floor on?
Dawg will have to sit on floor on right side opposit Cub. Some of my birds.
Posts: 322
Joined: 10/14/2002 From: Alexandria, VA, Status: offline
Rich, all I can say is if it crosses your mind or there is some question your mulling around in your head about adding support, anywhere, my theory is to go ahead and add that support and relieve that question that will continue to be there until you satisfy it. You did not lose anything, maybe you gained a few tenths of an ounce, so what. You should never fly an underpowered airplane anyway. I know about no dust in the house, until I built my workshop out back, I kept hearing the same philosophy for at least 3 years. Now, I tell her if she wants to come out to the shop to visit me, she must bring a sandwich with her or she gets no entry. Your build looks good, keep it coming. Chic
Posts: 5091
Joined: 7/3/2003 From: newton,
NC, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: redtail
.......... she must bring a sandwich with her or she gets no entry.
AND a beer
Rich, your build is coming along, looks good. One thing I'd mention. The stringer (longeron) directly above the crutch should extend to former #5. When you sheet the fuse and trim for the rear window, the edge of the sheeting will meet #5 at that point, and the longeron gives some support there. No big deal, I'd just scarf a piece to the end and extend it before you get ready to sheet it. There will be some angle stock that goes up the backside of #5 to allow the sheeting a place to attach, it ends right at this longeron.
As far as reinforcing the crutch, I also broke one of mine when pulling the aft ends together at the tail. Mine broke at the scarf joint (the joint itself held, just broke adjacent to it) I took some carbon fiber tape and laminated it across the scarf joints and repair, and then I made some relief cuts between #4 and #5 to allow the crutch to bend a bit more without straining it as much. The relief cuts are 1/3 the thickness of the material. Once you have the pieces in place (and you already do) you can laminate a thin piece of ply or carbon tape over the reliefs to reinforce them. I reinforce anything that looks like it needs it, especially when it moves a lot in handling. This is why my planes tend to build heavy. I have realized, though, that the skin of this plane adds TONS of structural integrity and resistance to torsion of the frame. As this is my first "hard skin" model, I still have the "fabric over open frame" mentality and I want to add all kinds of bracing that the skin will eventually provide.
I used 1/4" square stock to make "ledges" along the fuse insides for my floor to attach. As I progress, I may also make a support down the centerline to prevent floor "sag", and to compartmentalize under the floor. My batteries will go directly under the front seat area. The way I determined where the floor should be was to look at the door bottom on the drawings and extend that line forward to the firewall and aft to F5. Drop down the thickness of your floor material and place your braces there.
< Message edited by khodges -- 4/28/2008 3:09:38 PM >
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Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?
Posts: 141
Joined: 8/26/2006 From: Fremont,
MI, USA Status: offline
Thank you for being so observent Ken. I fixed the side stringers and added the angle for added sheet bonding. Haven't gotten much else done, been under the weather. Maybe tomarrow!
Posts: 322
Joined: 10/14/2002 From: Alexandria, VA, Status: offline
Rich, I second that - I had my bout with being sick, yes it was no fun. So do get better. Glad you guys can't hear the terrible words being hollered out in my back yard trying to create the lap belt fasteners. Chic
Posts: 322
Joined: 10/14/2002 From: Alexandria, VA, Status: offline
Well, Ken, Plan A was to try and bend pushrods but your suggestion of using brass wire would certainly be more pliable. Now switching to Plan B. Going shopping tomorrow for brass wire. Thanks and will let you know any developments. Have to be the starter for a pylon race this weekend so won't get too much done. I still keep my foot in the event but only to help out the other guys. I'm not a member per se of the go fast crowd anymore, I can still fly them (other peoples racers of course) but not for myself anymore. Been bitten by a "DAWG".
Posts: 5091
Joined: 7/3/2003 From: newton,
NC, USA Status: offline
Well guys, it's been a few days. Rich, I hope you're over your bug, and Chic, howz the seatbelts going? I've been trying to come up with a semblance of the tailwheel for this tail-dragger. For starters, I used a CB tailwheel, available through Sig. It is similar to the one Sig markets itself, that it has leaf springs, like the full-scale 'Dawg does. The Sig uses a plastic piece for the tailwheel fork pivot point, but the CB has a metal insert. The CB also uses four leafs, where the Sig has three. The heavyweight airframe variant of the L-19 used four leafs, and that is what I'm using, mainly because it looks a bit better and is easier to make more "scale" appearing.
The other part I'm using, is the fork and wheel from a Klett tailwheel, which are no longer available. I found a 2" tailwheel at a swap meet, the proper diameter for this bird. I shortened the "stem", replaced the music wire pivot axle with a 6-32 screw and made the arms for the steering linkage from a piece of thin steel, bent to resemble the real plane. I drilled an undersize hole and tapped it so the steering arm would thread on the pivot screw and tighten against the top of the wheel fork. I also bent a small tab on the arm that presses into the fork to keep the steering arm from shifting. I slipped a short piece of brass tubing over the screw to act as a bearing, and drilled out the hole in the pressed-in insert on the leaf spring. I also cut the top half of the insert off to lower its profile, but there is still adequate depth to keep the fork steady as it pivots. The fork is held in place on the spring assembly by a nylock nut.
To give shape to the pivot area that somewhat resembles the full-scale setup, I gooped some J-B Weld around the pressed in insert, and then shaped it with a cutoff wheel and sandpaper after it set. There is also a tie-down ring on the full scale in this area, and I duplicated it with a screw-eye which is locked into the J-B Weld with Ca. I made a small shackle around the spring with a piece of flat brass stock and a #0 screw and tiny nylock nut. This shackle keeps the leaf springs in alignment on the full-scale. It's as close as I can get to the full scale, I guess it'll have to do. The biggest difference is the shape of the forks on the full scale as compared to the Klett wheel, and the wheel itself. I rounded the corners on the hard plastic forks and it helps the appearance. Maybe later I can do something better.
< Message edited by khodges -- 5/4/2008 3:26:44 AM >
_____________________________
Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?
Posts: 322
Joined: 10/14/2002 From: Alexandria, VA, Status: offline
Well Ken, thank you, thank you, thank you. Your suggestion to use pliable copper/brass wire worked so very well. I took 16 gauge copper wire, I bent the wire into the shape of the seatbelt locking mech's and soldered the three pieces to a copper or brass sheet. I then painted it silver and tan (leather backing). I also constructed the cable inertia runs that hold the pilots shoulder belts. It connects to the ceiling of the cockpit and to the cockpit floor. Hope the photos show what I've done. Almost time to turn the AC on in the shop. Got to take the daughter out for ribs. Chic
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build 
RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build - 
I know about no dust in the house, until I built my workshop out back, I kept hearing the same philosophy for at least 3 years. Now, I tell her if she wants to come out to the shop to visit me, she must bring a sandwich with her or she gets no entry. 
Your build looks good, keep it coming. Chic
