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Posts: 301
Joined: 10/14/2002 From: Alexandria, VA, Status: offline
The fellow in the back is my very good buddy from West Virginia who I promoted to a CIA agent under the umbrella of Air America (Viet-Nam). He is flying along with me as an observer. His name is Bob Cain, and he always had a cup of coffee with him. He passed away just as him and I started building this DAWG. I just knew I had to finish it myself. I was going to do the fuse, him the wings. His wife and a friend brought the kit pieces he had to me and this journey has begun. Ken I thank you so much for the unconscious support you gave me to continue this project by watching your superb work. Rich I thank you for joining those of us who love the DAWG and for your questions which are making all of us better modelers. So this is kind of special to me since I'm building and eventually flying it for the two of us. I called him my wife's boyfriend. He was a superb carpender who did tons of work around the house for us. Thanks guys. Chic
Posts: 5060
Joined: 7/3/2003 From: newton,
NC, USA Status: offline
Chic, I'm at a loss for words. Your BirdDog is looking AWESOME. The fronts to cover the servo wires is great, I will unashamedly borrow the idea for mine. the pilot and observer look great, and I like the CIA idea. I had thought at one time to model my plane after one of the Raven 'Dawgs, but they were pretty bland looking, even for an L-19.
My struts are made from basswood, that's what was in the "kit" from Precision. They are too wide, and not thick enough, but i used them anyway. I laminated a piece of 3/32 balsa to each side and then used my "little friend" plane to rough shape them. The struts are kind of a strange shape. Not what I would call airfoiled, but the sides are still sort of square, with the top and bottom tapering a little (trailing edge is thinner than leading edge) and the corners rounded. The ends are smaller cross section and even more squared than the main portion. After finish sanding to shape, I fiberglassed the entire strut with one layer, and wrapped two more layers at each end. This closed off the sides of the slot at the bottom so the brackets are all concealed. Just the heads of the screws can be seen.
I have the flaps well under way. For the linkage, I'm using a ball link on the flap, and a swivel link at the servo. I also decided against using the Fliteskin on this model. Instead I'll go with my original plan to use 1/64 ply for panel detail. I used 1/16 balsa for the bottom of the flap, and will laminate 1/64 ply over it. To stiffen the flaps, I used a few more ribs, and the rib that the control rod goes to is 1/8 ply. You can see in the pic where the ball is, once the L.E. of the flap is shaped, it will just be inside the edge. Using protractors , calipers, and straightedge, I projected on the plans how the rod will travel through the full range of flap motion to minimize the size of the slot needed in the T.E. of the wing.
I hope to get the top surface on the flaps tonite and maybe even get them shaped. The trip to St. Louis is a wash, looks too iffy regarding weather and having to dodge T-storms out there and back.
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Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?
Posts: 5060
Joined: 7/3/2003 From: newton,
NC, USA Status: offline
I got the flaps done, at least the basics, and have the linkages working the way I wanted.With this setup, I can get 50 degrees of flaps, which is 5 more than Vailly says in the plans, but ten less than full scale. It still looks like they stick straight down almost, I doubt if I'll ever use full flaps. I bet it really slams on the brakes.
You see in 1st pic how I have the ball mounted, and the cutout so the snap link will fit. 2nd and 3rd pic show how the linkage fits at full deployment, and 4th and 5th show full flaps, at 50 degrees. This linkage doesn't show at all unless the flaps are at full, and then only the black snap fitting. Vailly's plans have the linkage exit the top of the wing just forward of the trailing edge, and there is a tab sticking up on the flap to attach the linkage to.
On a sad note, I heard that two of the people I met last year in St. Louis at the Waco fly-in, both very nice guys and accomplished pilots, have passed away in the last two months. One crashed his beautiful Acrosport, the other from a stroke. God be with you both.
< Message edited by khodges -- 6/22/2008 9:04:04 PM >
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Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?
Posts: 301
Joined: 10/14/2002 From: Alexandria, VA, Status: offline
Ken, excellent job with the flaps. Wish I had thought about the ball links for connections. Smart. You rascal you. Smile. Looks like I may have to have the aileron linkages showing unless I'm willing to work my butt off. Poor planning on my part I'd have to tear open the wing and ailerons to make the same similar connection as I did on the flaps. Hummmmm, maybe. By the way, I am using your technique for the struts and I have just finished the right side and your system is great. Sliding the strut over the metal fuse connection thus hiding it and the bolt and have it sitting flush against the bottom of the wing again hiding the bolt is really scale looking. Your a wiZard for sure, many, many thanks. Keep those ideas coming. Hey, what is the thickness of your struts. You said that you added a 3/32" sheet to both the top/bottom of the 3/8" thick strut to make it more scale? Chic
Posts: 5060
Joined: 7/3/2003 From: newton,
NC, USA Status: offline
Chic, that ball link really works well. It's a "female dog" to get on and off the ball, and the clerances are tight enough that once on, there's no way it can come off. To remove the linkage from the flap, I have to disconnect the servo end 1st, then unhinge the flap and removed it, then flip the rod over and unsnap it.
I'm glad you like the strut design. The slots take some patience to cut, I set up a jig on my bandsaw to get them precice, but the appearance is worth it. You have to cut a bit of the threaded part off the blind nut, but there's still enough to hold the screw. The hardwood piece for my strut is 3/8" x 1-1/8". The 3/32 balsa brings the thickness out to 9/16, but after sanding to shape, they're back to about 1/2" at the thickest point. At top and bottom, about 1-3/4 inches from each end, they are flattened to a uniform thickness of 7/16. The front and rear edges have a bit less curve than the rest of the strut (more boxy). I used a 1/4" screw eye for the tie-down rings at the top (wing end) mount.
What's the deal with Scott Kalitta?
< Message edited by khodges -- 6/23/2008 2:00:50 AM >
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Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?
Posts: 139
Joined: 8/26/2006 From: Fremont,
MI, USA Status: offline
1/5 Dawg
Nice job on the struts, will try my best to copy yours. My struts are the same 3/8 X 1 1/8, so I will only add one piece of balsa on the top side to allow for the blind nuts. Really neat how you did the flaps, but I think I will stay with the plans here and on the Ailerons.
Have the wings, flaps and ailerons built up / tips are just tacked. Pulled a _ _ _ _ _ and made to R Aile. so had to do some fixing to make one work on the left. Added a piece of block to one end and new rib on the other after I re-cut the angles. The inner ribs will be angled the wrong way, but I dont think it will make a difference. Just couldn't see enough strength at R-1, so I add 1/2 in angle to the front and back (between the spars) at the diehedral brace. Then copied you and put shear web front and back of spars to R-7. Need to get to the LHS (HA HA 40 miles one way) and pick up some things for the servo bays and some other goodies. Good thing for your "little friend" there sure is alot for him to do.
Posts: 5060
Joined: 7/3/2003 From: newton,
NC, USA Status: offline
Well, shoot me. My "brilliant" flaps linkage idea ain't gonna work. The ball is large enough that it stands proud of the top edge of the flap, and when they are deployed, it rubs on the portion of the wing that overhangs the flap pocket, causing the flaps to bind.. I could slot this area, but I went to a lot of trouble to conceal the linkage, and I know it can be done. Just not the way I did it
I've been messing with alternatives for two evenings, and have looked at the full scale linkage (at least the poor pics I have of that part). It seems that it comes off the almost forward edge of the curved front. I am thinking I can duplicate this by using a Robart control horn, embedded in the flap L.E so that the small swivel is all that's exposed, and use the metal saddle-shaped rod end that comes with the Robart horns. It will mean cutting a window in the top of the flap, and mounting the horn inside, and using filler and a patch of balsa to fill in the window. Most of the window will be covered by the "corrugated" surface on top of the flap. Not a lot of work, but it's aggravating to have to repair something not even finished yet. I'll post some pics when I get it done.
Back to the drawing board.
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Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build 
RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build - 
