RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods
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RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/16/2008 10:05:52 AM

pearl400

Posts: 14
Joined: 5/14/2008
From: Warwick, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

Thanks Nick, they arrived today so hopefully I'll get the chance to fit them up in the next few days and I’ll be back in action. At this stage I’m happy flying for sport however 3D is my goal. Thanks again

Pete

(in reply to evdreamer)

Post #: 151

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/16/2008 9:19:59 PM

evdreamer

Posts: 1755
Joined: 8/12/2007
From: Lincoln, NE, USA
Status: offline

Your welcome. Let us know how they work out.

Nick

_____________________________

Since I started this hobby money seems to keep disappearing. :)
Blade CX, Blade CP Pro, T-Rex 450SEV2

(in reply to pearl400)

Post #: 152

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/16/2008 11:11:04 PM

SeaComms

Posts: 246
Joined: 7/11/2006
From: Sunshine Coast,Sunny Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

Geez, looking at the price of them I would recommend getting the Hitec HS65kb - I did.

The Karbonite gears are 4 x stronger than nylon (according to the sales hype),
They have a top end ball bearing (385 dont),
They are faster (0.14 seconds for 60 degrees, JR is 0.23) and,
Higher output (1.7kg/cm compared to 1.3kg/cm for the JR)
However the HS65 is 2.7 grams heavier than the 385

But wait, thats not all!!! $58 AUS for the 385, $35 AUS for the HS65....

Yes, you may need minor mods to the frame to get them in (some do, some dont, I did - took me about 10 minutes) but well worth it as far as I am concerned. I got mine from Takeoff and Land in Perth, only $35 each. You can also pick them up on ebay pretty cheap

EDIT: oops - looks like you already got em!! Oh well, they will still be very good servos and will fit in easier. I use the HS65's whenever I need a micro servo - I just cant destroy them!

_____________________________

Blade 400 - learning to fly again
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(in reply to evdreamer)

Post #: 153

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/18/2008 8:26:49 AM

pearl400

Posts: 14
Joined: 5/14/2008
From: Warwick, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

SeaComms

Thanks for the update, the Hitec HS65kb sound good, I'll keep them in mind for next time.
I checked out Takeoff and Land's website and there prices are reasonable all round

Pete

(in reply to SeaComms)

Post #: 154

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/20/2008 7:51:49 PM

nbrooksby

Posts: 3
Joined: 5/20/2008
From: , UT, USA
Status: offline

Help! I have been having an overheating issue with the brushless on my 400. I have already drilled out the canopy, checked belt tension, switched motor, tried several different tail rotors (CNC and Factory). I'll fly for a few minutes and have had the heli act like the battery has ran down, but it hasn't. So I assume it is shutting down because it is too hot. The motor is so hot I can't touch for more than five seconds. It has got to be some friction somewhere, I just can't seem to find it. Anyone having problems with the motor overheating?

(in reply to vince.b)

Post #: 155

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/20/2008 8:46:27 PM

evdreamer

Posts: 1755
Joined: 8/12/2007
From: Lincoln, NE, USA
Status: offline

How is your gear mesh? You can also take out the motor and spin the rotors by hand and see if you can feel where some friction is coming from.

_____________________________

Since I started this hobby money seems to keep disappearing. :)
Blade CX, Blade CP Pro, T-Rex 450SEV2

(in reply to nbrooksby)

Post #: 156

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/20/2008 11:41:09 PM

SeaComms

Posts: 246
Joined: 7/11/2006
From: Sunshine Coast,Sunny Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

I agree with the mesh theory, on mine, if I hold the motor stationary I can just get the tiniest movement in the main gear. From stock it was way too loose, only meshing by about 1/2 the teeth.

Also the belt, should be almost loose enough to slip. Loosen it off til it will slip then tighten back up just a fraction. You should be able to easily push it across halfway (in the little inspection window in the front/right of the boom) before you get any tension.

Apart from that, spin the blades by hand, they should free rotate a turn or two on their own. If not, could have bearings seizing up.

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Blade 400 - learning to fly again
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(in reply to evdreamer)

Post #: 157

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/21/2008 12:31:41 AM

nbrooksby

Posts: 3
Joined: 5/20/2008
From: , UT, USA
Status: offline

How do I adjust the Mesh from the motor to the main gear. It appears to be a fixed position (main shaft holding main gear and bolts to mount the motor). I did pull the motor out and adjusted the motor gear higher. It was riding at the top of the gear, now the main gear is riding on the lower portion of the motor gear. Hope it works, too windy out to try it now. One other thing, when I spin the main blades by hand I hear a ticking coming from, what I believe to be the belt drive gear area. Could this ticking be a bad bearing? I also thought it might be the gear teeth not quite matching the belt grooves, and the ticking might be from the belt setting into the gear teeth. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

(in reply to SeaComms)

Post #: 158

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/21/2008 5:21:36 AM

evdreamer

Posts: 1755
Joined: 8/12/2007
From: Lincoln, NE, USA
Status: offline

I always have my main gears be in the middle of the pinion. On all electric helicopters that I know of you adjust the mesh by moving the motor close to or away from the main gear. I am not to sure about the ticking problem. The only thing I can think of is to tear down the helicopter and find out what is wrong.

Nick

_____________________________

Since I started this hobby money seems to keep disappearing. :)
Blade CX, Blade CP Pro, T-Rex 450SEV2

(in reply to nbrooksby)

Post #: 159

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/21/2008 8:22:51 AM

cobra525

Posts: 76
Joined: 12/2/2003
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: offline

I think the ticking your talking about is just the machine working and turning. I think Ive heard mine do it also when I spin the rotor by hand. Similar to a bicycle turning freely. Thats not bad unless its really loud or you feel it restricting your rotor from turning. As far as heating up, I agree with the above posts with what to check. A bad bearing may also make a chirping sound during operation if its really bad. The battery or cables can also rub on the motor as it turns if its placed up too high on the tray. However I think the motor labels would show wear if that were the case. Where did you get a CNC tail setup?

(in reply to evdreamer)

Post #: 160

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/21/2008 9:15:22 AM

nbrooksby

Posts: 3
Joined: 5/20/2008
From: , UT, USA
Status: offline

Well, I actually have had two different CNC set ups. The first one was the Copter X version, it did not fit well and it was cheaply made. It broke in half when I was tightening it (for the $20 I lost it was worth the knowledge, I guess). This is the link to the second one I just installed. http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet/the-83/3dx450-T-dsh-REX-450X-fdsh-XL-fdsh-SE-helicopte/Detail
It went on without any problems, and seems to be quality built. I flew it today for the first time and all is well. It comes with two gears, one metal and one plastic, I put the smaller metal gear on. The only thing I had to change was the ball link, I just took it off the 400.

(in reply to cobra525)

Post #: 161

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/21/2008 11:13:18 PM

casey_lamm

Posts: 131
Joined: 3/16/2008
From: Lancaster, PA, USA
Status: offline

what is the best match for the 401 gyro for tail servo?

jr3000?

(in reply to nbrooksby)

Post #: 162

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/21/2008 11:40:25 PM

SeaComms

Posts: 246
Joined: 7/11/2006
From: Sunshine Coast,Sunny Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: nbrooksby

How do I adjust the Mesh from the motor to the main gear.

Took me a while to work it out.... first you loosen off the 4 bolts on the side of the frame that screw into the motor mount, then, if you look in from the top you will see a step in the side of the frame and the motor mount, matching ones front back and left right. Using a small (3mm or 4mm or so) screwdriver, you can stick it in there and twist and it will lever the mount forward/backward.

Doesnt have to move much, too tight to not engaged at all is only about a millimetre...

_____________________________

Blade 400 - learning to fly again
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(in reply to nbrooksby)

Post #: 163

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/22/2008 7:18:08 AM

cobra525

Posts: 76
Joined: 12/2/2003
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: offline

Im sure there are better more expensive choices as far as tail servo, but I have had good results using the HITEC carbonite HS-56HB on the tail of my 450se with a GY401, and now on the blade 400 with the stock Eflite gyro too. Its a 25 dollar servo thats reasonably fast, light weight, and ballbearinged. The carbonite would probably hold up better than a plastic gear too.

< Message edited by cobra525 -- 5/22/2008 7:29:49 AM >

(in reply to SeaComms)

Post #: 164

RE: Blade 400 - Tips, tricks, and mods - 5/23/2008 4:54:08 AM

pearl400

Posts: 14
Joined: 5/14/2008
From: Warwick, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

evdreamer

I installed my new JR DS385 servos today. They fitted straight in without any problems. I had to use the JR servo arms because the eflight arms wouldn’t fit on the JR shafts. I’ve put 2 batteries through it and wow what a difference. The heli is some much more responsive yet really stable. I can’t believe the difference they’ve made. I also used the same servo on the tail and I think it’s 3 times faster and more responsive than the eflite standard ones. At $58 AUS each there expensive but I’ll defiantly be flying a lot more now because the heli is so much more controllable and enjoyable. And if I’m striping servo gears I can get metal upgrades for them.

I've attached some picks hopefully they will come through

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(in reply to cobra525)