RE: RG-65 Build  
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RE: RG-65 Build - 5/26/2008 3:06:14 PM   
tatolazo


 

Posts: 366
Joined: 7/7/2003
From: concepcion, CHILE
Status: offline 		HI:
We are making the keel boxes in fiberglass and epoxy, to avoid any moisture coming into the keel box or the keel itself and get them stucked. The keels in our rg65 are in 4x4 mm hardwood sticks glued together with epoxy and will be laminated with epoxy and 3/4 oz fiberglass too. That way they become a lot stiffer.

The plans for the "Palo de Agua", for example, contains a 2mm aluminum keel, but at that thickness you can not get a good airfoil.
I guess a good airfoil prevents the keel from stall when forced to up wind. or hard turns.

Hope this help.

Tato Lazo

(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 26

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/26/2008 11:26:50 PM   
ROADTOAD



Posts: 123
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: DALLAS, GA, USA
Status: offline 		My keels were made of multiply marine plywood, laminated on both sides with 4 oz. cloth and epoxy. Finished they are 3mm thick.
They appear to be stiff.
I will try laminating a thicker keel for the next two hulls.

The keel boxes were sealed on the inside with two coats of epoxy then assembled and coated with epoxy again on the outside. They seem fairly rigid. But will add a couple braces here and there to be sure. My keels slide into the box snug and the deck beam is stiff to hold everything in place. I was trying to save some weight and still make everything strong.

Thanx for the info.

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< Message edited by ROADTOAD -- 5/26/2008 11:31:14 PM >

(in reply to tatolazo)
       Post #: 27

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/27/2008 12:40:48 AM   
ROADTOAD



Posts: 123
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: DALLAS, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Per your post, I can do one more lamination on my keel to increase thickness and stiffness and will beef up the keelbox.


(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 28

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/27/2008 1:43:44 PM   
tatolazo


 

Posts: 366
Joined: 7/7/2003
From: concepcion, CHILE
Status: offline 		Roadtoad:

Its perfect!! with all that you will keep your keel and keel box dry.

Just keep your leading edge in the keel round enougfht. some felloes shapoen it too much, and it only produces a mor eviolent stall at certain angleof attack, as when you force the boat to go up wind and it comes crossed to the displacement line.

Good luck.

Tato Lazo

(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 29

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/28/2008 3:25:35 AM   
ROADTOAD



Posts: 123
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: DALLAS, GA, USA
Status: offline 		I beefed up the keel box anyways. If it's overkill, let me know. The first two hulls are being used experiment with. Any input as I progress and post pictures are welcome.

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(in reply to tatolazo)
       Post #: 30

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/29/2008 5:23:26 PM   
tatolazo


 

Posts: 366
Joined: 7/7/2003
From: concepcion, CHILE
Status: offline 		HI:
Could you explain me how work the little tubes, collars and the rudder ( seems to be taht) in the pictues 2 and 3 .

I tryed to figure out how you assemble them and for what ppurpouse ...but did not get it....

Tato Lazo.

(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 31

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/29/2008 6:57:59 PM   
hiljoball


 

Posts: 54
Joined: 3/11/2008
From: Parksville, BC, CANADA
Status: offline 		I think the third picture is showing the rudder post installed.

If I am correct, It looks like it is inside the hull and below the waterline. In which case it will leak water into the hull. It is much better to have the rudder post come right up through the deck so that it is completely sealed to the interior. At least, make it long enough to be well above the waterline.

_____________________________

John - IOM CAN 229
Summer Vancouver Island, BC: winter, Yuma, AZ

(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 32

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/29/2008 11:32:59 PM   
ROADTOAD



Posts: 123
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: DALLAS, GA, USA
Status: offline 		A wheel collar was soldered to a brass tube which the rudder shaft will slide thru. The wheel collar will act as a bearing to prevent the control arm from wearing away at the tube. The picture is an optical illusion the rudder post is above the waterline.

(in reply to hiljoball)
       Post #: 33

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/30/2008 5:24:18 PM   
tatolazo


 

Posts: 366
Joined: 7/7/2003
From: concepcion, CHILE
Status: offline 		Hi:
Totally clear now!!!
It really seems to be very close to the bottom in the 3rd. picture!!!

Keep us posted with the construction.

Tato Lazo

(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 34

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/30/2008 7:34:52 PM   
hiljoball


 

Posts: 54
Joined: 3/11/2008
From: Parksville, BC, CANADA
Status: offline 		As the collar is soldered to the tube, remove the hex nut. That will save weight and will prevent an inexperienced owner from deciding to tighten it and distort the tube and jam the rudder.

_____________________________

John - IOM CAN 229
Summer Vancouver Island, BC: winter, Yuma, AZ

(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 35

RE: RG-65 Build - 5/31/2008 1:20:18 AM   
ROADTOAD



Posts: 123
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: DALLAS, GA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: hiljoball

As the collar is soldered to the tube, remove the hex nut. That will save weight and will prevent an inexperienced owner from deciding to tighten it and distort the tube and jam the rudder.



LOL, I know what some people would do. Unfortunatly it won't happen. The set screw is soldered to the wheel collar. The solder wicks up the inside of the wheel collar and also into the set screw threads.
I couldn't find my short set screws so I used the longer ones. It was barely pressing on the tubing. It was ment to keep it in place while soldering. I will be grinding off the excess. The set screw is almost weightless....

The first few hulls are all prototypes to experiment on and to get them set up correctly.

Right now the decks are in place and just stained. Once the stain drys, it will recieve two coats of "clear" finishing epoxy and several coats of marine varnish with UV inhibitors to prevent the sun from breaking down the epoxy. First coat of epoxy will go down Sat.

(in reply to hiljoball)
       Post #: 36

RE: RG-65 Build - 6/1/2008 3:08:45 AM   
ROADTOAD



Posts: 123
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: DALLAS, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Deck sheeting is in place, stained and has it's first coat of epoxy.
One more coat, let it cure for 4 days, and will then be ready to cut out the main hatch and rudder hatch. Then they will be ready for varnish. Should look good.

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(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 37

RE: RG-65 Build - 6/5/2008 1:14:24 AM   
ROADTOAD



Posts: 123
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: DALLAS, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Here's what one of my RG's looks like now, taking shape

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(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 38

RE: RG-65 Build - 6/16/2008 12:15:01 AM   
ROADTOAD



Posts: 123
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: DALLAS, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Hatch cover made..........

Still have to cut out of the deck a rudder access hatch. Going to make sure I pull out a scaple blade, much sharper than an axacto blade. The pc. cut out from the deck will go back on flush.

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(in reply to ROADTOAD)
       Post #: 39

RE: RG-65 Build - 6/20/2008 5:25:31 PM   
tatolazo


 

Posts: 366
Joined: 7/7/2003
From: concepcion, CHILE
Status: offline 		HI:
In our first IOMs we used the deck hatch with a raised edge to avoid water from coming in, but we couldn´t solve that. Finally we removed all and let the deck flush and started to use vinyl patches. They worked great.

Also consider seriously the GWS 1T servo winch. from servohut.com. It is very cheap and you can achieve easyly a very good handling of the sails with this. I use to put the sheet line from the servo down to the back, near transom, and glue in a "U" shaped soft copper tube ( or you can burn it in your kitchen to softening) So the line goes over the deck and come back to the mast.

with the winch fully closed i tie a swivel next to the exit of the line in the deck and from the main and jibe booms comes the lines to this swivell. So when putting all together I just open the swivell and place int the loop in the line from the sails. Then you move the stick full opossite to opening the sails and set the travel of sail booms with the dual rate or atv. if you are using a simple radio, you can just attach a scrap plastic with tape to limit the travel of the sail channel stick.

This way you achieve maximum torque and minimum lines over and below the deck.

As a famous modeller ( R/C aerobatic champion Quique Somenzini said to me once: "if IT is not in your model, it does not fail" The more gizmos you put in, the more Murphy chances.....

I hope really have the time to shoew you some pictures. But i going home late and from this PC I can not load pictures.

Keep up your good work.

Tato Lazo

(in reply to ROADTOAD)