ROADTOAD

This class of sailboats maybe the next growing class within the USA and Canada.
If you want to get in on it, send me a PM.

My current build is in progress

ROADTOAD

Got some more time in on the hull

ROADTOAD

Fairing compound was spread over the hull to fill in any low spots and to get a real nice smooth even finish. A bit of sanding and it was ready for priming.

Did an inital priming of the hull today (not pictured). Looked for high and low spots. spent 15 minutes doing another overall sanding. Looks about as good as it's going to get. I'll give it one more priming before the hull is pulled from the jig. And get to work on a deck.

tatolazo

Hi:
Great
This is a very exiting class of sailboats, cheap to build and easy to set up. No expensve hardware is needed.
Make sure you cut your sails from 30-40 microns polyester or from 1/2 oz. ripstop.

mast should be 6mm carbon spars ( 1/4"), some folks used 5mm and it bends a little too much, booms could be 3 or 4 mm carbon spars

keep your photos coming up!!!

ROADTOAD

Thank you for the useful info, it will come in handy!!

ROADTOAD

Just pulled the hull off the building jig

tatolazo

Hi:
It seems that you glued the bulkheads to the hull. It looks shiny like if some epoxy or laquer was applyed.

I did my IOM with ply bulks but i used some tape over the edge of the bulkheads so after i glued all the balsa spars that make the hull i was able to pull out all the bulkheads and the hull was totally empty inside, allowing space for mounting servos, and bulb box easily.

i would try to post some pictures.

keep up your good work!!!

Tato Lazo

ROADTOAD

I planked the hull using balsa, then epoxy coated the inside while still on the building jig.

This was done to strength and to make the hull rigid.


This hull is being built to be used as a plug.
A mold will be made from it so a number of hulls can be reproduced in fiberglass.
If it's great sailing boat, like to build a few more of this hull.

Happy sailing

ROADTOAD

Started on the deck today.

ROADTOAD

The deck has been attached so the edges could be flush sanded to match the hull edge. Then I will lower the rear cockpit section further into the hull. Still a fair amount of work to do....

The hull will measure 65cm when finished with bumper, 15cm beam width, 3cm waterline, 8.5cm total height from hull bottom to top of deck.

ROADTOAD

Had a chance to get some of the deck done today, still needs more work....

ROADTOAD

Deck and hull have been board mounted and will be prepping to make a mold from them.

ROADTOAD

Looking forward to finishing off the plugs, just need some warm weather for priming and painting

ROADTOAD

Plugs almost ready for mold making

ROADTOAD

Making my molds today, here are some pictures

ROADTOAD

Here's the completed molds.
Now just have to get some gelcoat, lay-up resin and some cloth.....

ROADTOAD

Interested in making your own boat molds? I now have a step by step instructional pdf. for viewing on my website:
http://home.earthlink.net/~puddlepirate/
You will find it under the RG-65 Sailboat tab.

ROADTOAD

First hull pull from molds. The deck and hull have a combined weight of 11 oz.

ROADTOAD

There were some concerns that the deck and hull weighed too much compared to the balsa built RG-65's.
The first lay-up of the hull weighed in at 7 oz. with deck 11 oz. To be on par with the balsa built boats the hull and deck should have come out about half that weight.

So some more hulls were made and have reduced the weight down to 4 oz.

My second hull using only 1 layer 6 oz. cloth and resin weighed in at 3 oz. It was too flimsey, not sturdy at all. Not even worth using.

Third hull, some gelcoat mixed in with clear resin and one layer of 6 oz. cloth and 1 layer of 4 oz. cloth weighed in at 4 oz..

Fourth hull, one layer of gelcoat and two layers of 4 oz. cloth weighed in at 4 oz.. Appears to be the best hull so far.

The only other place I can save weight is by making a flat balsa deck intead of making up a fiberglass one.

So I will get to work on laying-up some more hulls. As soon as I get some more balsa, will complete one hull.

I am thinking about laying up a special hull using EnviroTex lite epoxy resin. Have some here that I can use.

tatolazo

Hi:
we are laminating RG 65 hulls with epooxy resins only and using 160 grams per square meter fiberglas cloth. They are working great. using thinner cloth results in floppy hulls not able to sail in rought water. Seesm that epoxy resins are stiffer that polyester resins using the same cloth thickness.

The hull i am telling you has raced very effciciently in Chilean nats races and is inended to weight aroung 950 grams ready to sail.

Later i could post you some pictures of the mould. for the deck it has been built with balsa deck or fiberglass deck. but a entire fiberglass boat give you some confidence against water filtrations and moisture nside.-

Keep up your good work.

Tato Lazo

ROADTOAD

I did lay up an epoxy hull, it weighs in one oz. less than using polyester resin and gelcoat. Using 2 layers of 4 oz. cloth. Just a tad less stiff than the polyester/gelcoat hull.

tatolazo

Hi:
Two laeyers of 4 oz. sounds good, but really, the master around here use only 1 layer of 160 -165 grams ( 5 oz/sq. yard or so) per square meter/ yard and the hulls are stiff enought , without deck they could seem very floppy but once assembled all the structure becomes really strong.


also i saw very beatifull multicolored wood keels laminated in 2oz. cloth that becomes very resistant..and looks cool.

In my IOm the keel is 8mm thick with 5oz. (hobbico) cloth lamination and it is very stiff, later i will post some photo.

Tato Lazo

ROADTOAD

Spent most of the day today working on deckwork on three of my fiberglass hulls and just started working on the epoxy hull. Hope to make keel boxes next week and fit those in.

ROADTOAD

Starting to build the keel box, here's some pix

ROADTOAD

Keel box pix