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RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/13/2008 3:56:06 AM   
Crash90



Posts: 2315
Joined: 10/5/2002
From: Cressona, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Well guys. She is all done.In the bones. Yeeehaaawww. After 3 attempts, this baby is perfect. Even the wing bolts lined up. LOL
All that's left is drilling for the robart hinges in 1 aileron. I guess it's time to call DA and order that header. Now for the hard part. Covering

Just a quick story. The aileron triangle stock that came with the kit was bretty badly twisted. No big deal as I found a piece left over from the last unfinished attempt. Straight as an arrow. Glued it up real good with some thick CA. Went to sand the aileron to blend the stock. OH S****. It's not the same size. It's about 3/16 smaller. Now what. was just about to try to remove it with the belt sander when I decided to just laminate some 1/16 balsa to each side. Worked great but holy cow was I freakin out when I first realized what I had done.

Need to cover and install the hardware and whatnot.

Outssider, what are you using in yours as far as servos, engine etc.
I have a NIB DA50 that I bought a year or so ago that I will put in it. Might as well go with the cannister also. 5955s all aroud. Probably Li-Ion sine I already have 1 sitting here.

(in reply to Crash90)
       Post #: 26

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/13/2008 6:36:16 PM   
outssider


 

Posts: 1107
Joined: 1/18/2002
Status: offline 		wow ..your leading edge looks nice...

I will be gluing on my capping's on both wing half's today and probably sand tomorrow. (don't like using ca for that)

Yes both sides of both wings do the same thing. I kind of figured they would because i know that the te of r1 r2 and r3 are the same after r3 all subsequent ribs get progressively narrower. I didn't intentionally make r2 the same as r3 and r1 , it just ended up that way. What i did to r2 was to set a straight edge up between the te of the aileron portion and the highest spot at the rib at the spar and then just fill in so it would be straight (like all the other ribs are and not concaved see picture of original rib)

when I later compared the ribs i noticed that all 3 had about the same width at the te of the wing. If you made r2 slightly larger than r3 then you should have a dip after r2 rather than r3. Unless some how you got a much fatter root rib than me....which it seems you must have because you say you have no dip at all.

yes I drew center lines on r1 but on the inside (not showing on pictures and very small lines anyway) this is how i figured out that i needed to get the back of the ribs down by putting the jigs back very far and moved toward the root.

OK looking at your picture for sanding in the leading edge it looks like you are moving the sand paper back and forth the way you would polish a shoe with a rag ???is this what you mean ???...if yes...how in the world do you keep the wing in one place if it's up on it's trailing edge ????

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(in reply to Crash90)
       Post #: 27

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/13/2008 6:53:37 PM   
outssider


 

Posts: 1107
Joined: 1/18/2002
Status: offline 		I also have one twisted triangle stock. my hobby shop only has 3 footers so i'm gong to half to splice. (i'll be sure to check that it's the same size before i glue...he...he..)

I have a da 50 but am using a stock muffler (minus the down spout)

as far as servos go i'm not sure yet, I have some old and i will buy some new ...will see.

I am very good at covering with monokote..i'm slow but i get it very tight with never any wrinkles (even if left out in the sun or car)

But I am toying with the idea of using 21st century micro lite covering in selected places like the tail to keep it light. I already bought some to test on scrap to see how i like it but have not gotten that far as yet. When i built the omp 80"yak i gained over a pound after covering with monokote...would you believe that !!!


(in reply to outssider)
       Post #: 28

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/13/2008 7:03:53 PM   
Crash90



Posts: 2315
Joined: 10/5/2002
From: Cressona, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Outssider. Yeah, like polishing a shoe only I am pulling it more in an up and down motion meaning both hands pull down toward the building board. It's not easy but it yields great results. I found it easiest if I work with the Root facing my back, held in place in my arm pit working from the tip towards the root. If you knock the edges off first you will be surprised how little effort is required. This particular balsa is quite soft.
It works real nice if you have somebody to hold the wing. No kidding it takes less than 5 minutes and the LE is perfectly round.

My covering skills leave alot to be desired. I do the best that I can. Probably the biggest reason that I like the ARFs.
I havent decided on a scheme yet. I really liked Mikes original with the flames. I do not want to copy his but I will definately use it as inspiration.

(in reply to outssider)
       Post #: 29

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/13/2008 9:32:33 PM   
alpapilot


 

Posts: 135
Joined: 1/8/2005
From: Newnan, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Hey yall, want to say thanks for figuring this stuff out so when I get to the wing build I don't pull my hair out! I'm still working on the fuse and have a question. The two fuse sides are glued together with all formers and firewall. I have yet to add the bottom sheeting. It looks as though one fuse side is slightly bowed out and one is flat. Or, one side is bowed in and the other is flat. If I add weights to the fuse while it is laying on its side and then glue in the lower sheeting, will that correct the "bowed" effect?

Just to let yall know: DA50 with Slimline pitts, HS5595s on the rons, HS5645s on the elevator and rudder, lipos on Rx and ignition. As far as covering scheme, I am toying with the idea of covering it as a P-40. Shark's mouth and all (desert camo). Really piss-off the scale guys, hehe.

(in reply to Crash90)
       Post #: 30

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/13/2008 10:26:51 PM   
Crash90



Posts: 2315
Joined: 10/5/2002
From: Cressona, PA, USA
Status: offline 		alpapilot. The best method for doing the fuse is to utilize the top view on the plans. Pin some scrap balsa on both sides on the blue prints then set the fuse inside. This is the only way to guarantee that the fuse will be perfectly straight. Then use a couple of squares up the sides to hold it square to the building board. Believe me, if you dont take the time to get this part right you will regret it later on.

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       Post #: 31

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/14/2008 1:05:25 AM   
alpapilot


 

Posts: 135
Joined: 1/8/2005
From: Newnan, GA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Crash90

alpapilot. The best method for doing the fuse is to utilize the top view on the plans. Pin some scrap balsa on both sides on the blue prints then set the fuse inside. This is the only way to guarantee that the fuse will be perfectly straight. Then use a couple of squares up the sides to hold it square to the building board. Believe me, if you dont take the time to get this part right you will regret it later on.


So, should I "unglue" the formers and start over or can I just pin it to the board and apply the sheeting?

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       Post #: 32

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/14/2008 2:14:38 AM   
Crash90



Posts: 2315
Joined: 10/5/2002
From: Cressona, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Well. If you didn't take extra measures while installing the formars, what I would suggest is this. Go ahead and pin the scrap balsa to the "top View" of the plans along the outer perimeter of the fuse. Also pin 1 back at the rear across the back. Set your fuse in. At this point in the build I would say to set it in upright for now. Use a square and check the fuse sides. If you are not square to your building surface, the last 2 formers (I think it's F8 and 9) are the ones you would want to remove as these 2 formers are going to hold the fuse out of square. Then square it up and glue F8 and 9 back in. It may be a pain to get these pieces out but if you are out of square, even 1/4" it will affect the way the rest of the plane goes together. Make sure the fuse is against the building board and both sides are lined up with the scrap balsa you pinned across the back. Once that is done, flip the fuse over and set it back into your "jig". Put a brick or something on top to hold it down. Again, check the sides with your square. Once it is square you can glue in your bottom sheeting. I have built 3 of these kits and believe me, you cant check square enough.

Also note, use this jig and keep checking for square as you are installing the rear turtle deck. If you are having trouble envisioning the jig let me know and I will take a picture.

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       Post #: 33

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/14/2008 2:33:45 AM   
AFSalmon



Posts: 3739
Joined: 5/24/2002
From: Beavercreek, OH,
Status: offline 		Crash, thanks for sharing the tips on sanding the leading edge. You took the words right out of my fingers. That is EXACTLY the same procedure I use for shaping leading edges. And ditto on the steps for doing the fuse sides. If you build a big Carden or similar giant scale plane the procedure is the same. This is why I put the top view on the plans and point this out in the instructions. I add weights like bricks on top of the fuse to hold it flat against the board while applying the bottom sheeting and final asembly steps. Remember the entire fuse box assembly will flex and move until all pieces are glued in place. So pay attention and keep things firmly in place.

Oh, the first Hybrid we did we used the pitts muffler. ALthough the installation was a tad simpler and the cost less we found the header and canister option to produce much better power on the DA.

_____________________________

Mike (Salmon) Pilkenton, Chief Slab Designer
Ohio Model Planes, Team OMP Captain

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       Post #: 34

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/14/2008 4:09:16 AM   
alpapilot


 

Posts: 135
Joined: 1/8/2005
From: Newnan, GA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: AFSalmon

Oh, the first Hybrid we did we used the pitts muffler. ALthough the installation was a tad simpler and the cost less we found the header and canister option to produce much better power on the DA.


Thanks for the advice on the build Crash and Salmon. I built the jig and surprisingly, everything squared up nicely so no worries.

As far as the pitts, that is what I got and I really don't feel like spending about $200 for the canister. I used the pitts in, of all things, a Pitts Python. It seemed to have pretty good power and the plane was almost 18 lbs. I am trying to build light and keep the hybrid around 16 - 16.5 lbs.

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       Post #: 35

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/14/2008 4:43:52 AM   
Crash90



Posts: 2315
Joined: 10/5/2002
From: Cressona, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Sure Mike. I just noticed for the first time that we are in the OMP support forum. I guess I should not be posting answers here. Sorry.

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       Post #: 36

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/14/2008 2:46:38 PM   
AFSalmon



Posts: 3739
Joined: 5/24/2002
From: Beavercreek, OH,
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Crash90

I guess I should not be posting answers here. Sorry.


Huh, I'm confused? I was complimenting you on your tips and advice. I apologize if you misread my post. Please keep the great advice and comments coming for all. By the way I'll be fixing the CAD drawings for the laser cutter on those ribs thanks to the insight from you and Outssider!

_____________________________

Mike (Salmon) Pilkenton, Chief Slab Designer
Ohio Model Planes, Team OMP Captain

(in reply to Crash90)
       Post #: 37

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/14/2008 3:11:10 PM   
Crash90



Posts: 2315
Joined: 10/5/2002
From: Cressona, PA, USA
Status: offline 		No. No. thanks for the compliment. It was appreciated. I just happened to notice we were in the OMP forum and thought oh crap. I shouldn't be posting here.
I ordered my header from DA today. Can't wait till it gets here. I am waiting to sheet the bottom of the cowl area till I get the cut-outs done for the cannister. I'll post some pics when it's in.

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       Post #: 38

RE: hybrid wing problem - 1/14/2008 5:29:44 PM   
outssider


 

Posts: 1107
Joined: 1/18/2002
Status: offline 		I kind of figured that me and crash kind of hijacked this thread.....


OK crash.... after i sand the excess off the leading edge i will try your technique....just realized i got to sand/form the te too!!



***Mike**** .....I am curious when you make this fix to the ribs, are you going to make r1 wider at the te too so that the wing tapers all the way to r10 or are you just fixing r2 and sr1 so the wing is the same thickness at the te from r1 through r3 then starts to narrow.
If you fool with r1 i am afraid in may mess up the jigs because originally when i put everything together on the board the only rib that didn't line up was r2...

(in reply to Crash90)
       Post #: 39