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All Forums >> TEAM RCU >> Team RCU - Don Szczur >> RE: Magic VF3 building thread
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RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 3/24/2008 3:37:51 AM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Mount nose ring bracket, tack glue with a few dabs of epoxy. Sand the fiberglass for a good bond. Position nose ring mark, drill, then take engine out slide in nose ring behinc engine nose ring support put engine in, tighten screws. Here are some pictures from the front and the back. Note the holes are offset. If an engine thrust change is made later, it will allow you to rotate the nose ring, drill 2 more holes for re-mounting easily.

Landing gear mounted. Put a couple of straight edges on the wheel part to get the struts pointed back straight during mounting and so they are both symmetric.

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       Post #: 51

RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 3/24/2008 3:49:48 AM   
jrpav1


 

Posts: 190
Joined: 9/11/2003
From: New Milford, CT, USA
Status: offline 		Don,
Looking good. What landing gear are you using?

John Pavlick
Team Black Magic

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       Post #: 52

RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 3/28/2008 2:58:54 AM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		These are Comp Arf- If enough people let a manufacturer or retailer know (Central Hobbies, TNT, etc) you are interested in having them stock gear, cf tubes, wheel pants and other hardware, they would likely find the demand profitable and justify stocking them.

I spoke to a Mike and discovered it really is quite remarkable- there are hundreds of these Magic kits that have been built or are being built in a year's timeframe. That is several hundred sets of landing gear that are being consumed.

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       Post #: 53

RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 4/3/2008 1:54:16 AM   
rcpattern



Posts: 516
Joined: 10/17/2003
From: DHanis, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Great job Don. You are going to love this plane. I now have over 400 flights between the prototype and my VF3. Plane is as rock steady as ever and is easily the best flying plane in high winds that I've ever flown,

Arch

_____________________________

Team Futaba, YS Parts and Service, Central Hobbies, Team Black Magic, Krill Models

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       Post #: 54

RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 4/3/2008 7:59:02 AM   
Jeff Boyd 2



Posts: 358
Joined: 3/18/2005
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Bolly Products make GREAT CF Landing gear and spats . .

http://www.bolly.com.au/models/undercarts.html

Attached are a couple of pics of the "F3A Curved Back" gear, with the "F3A Small" wheel pants (in natural carbon fibre) fitted to my Impact.

They are well made and very light. I have given them a work-out on the odd occasion, and they hold up very well.

The spat weighs 0.49oz., and a leg weighs 1.94ox.

Apparently, they are working on Carbon F3A legs hollow moulded. Interesting.

Cheers, Jeff

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< Message edited by Jeff Boyd 2 -- 4/3/2008 11:47:50 AM >

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       Post #: 55

RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 4/17/2008 2:46:12 AM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Chin cowl cutout and pipe notional mounting. Its a great setup for the servicability standpoint. You can reach all the landing gear screws and muffler mount from the exhaust exit hole.

Holes drilled for the side chin cowl screws I plan to mount the back similar to the front of the canopy- with two wires going into nyrod inserts.

Pictures attached.


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       Post #: 56

RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 4/24/2008 4:18:13 AM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Mounted chin cowl perfect fit a usual. Used two 1/16 wires with nyrod as the inner piece going into two ply squares that are behind the chin cowl. Mount pieces of 1/8 ply at each location on the side and under the front. Make the front piece long enough so it won't ever break loose. I made mine about 2 inches long but curved to fit inside the cowl surface. Drill, then mount the blind nuts. Put the blind nuts tightened to about 2/3 amount then drop a few thick CA then tighten the screws all the way.

Make a stand out of the extra foam pieces. This is handy for inverting the airplane and the foam pieces fit precisely for a nice stand.



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       Post #: 57

RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 4/24/2008 4:26:55 AM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Wings sanded tips. Use a sheet of white paper laid on the wing just inside the tip to help protect the wing sheeting and go get a good parallel sand. When down to the last 1/32 inch then sand through without the paper in place. This process takes time but 80 grit paper and the light balsa makes it less painful. Fuselage is light. Dale, Goob and Terry were impressed with the lightness of the fuselage (even with engine mount and landing gear). I weighed the wings. One is at 10.1 oz the other 10.4. I still need to final sand, put the bevels in and sand the LE and tips round. Will dremel out the heavy tip to balance, then re=sheet the tip with 1/16 or 1/8 very light balsa.

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       Post #: 58

RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 4/26/2008 5:43:25 AM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Rear fuselage and rudder pieces put in place. Back block hollowed and glued in place. Rudder LE and Fin TE glued in place after sanding surfaces straight.

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RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 4/27/2008 3:49:19 AM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Sand, fit and rough sanding of rudder and fin. The back piece filler between the fin and fuselage- added a piece of 1/8 inch light balsa as a spacer then filled the area with 1/16 sheeting, light weight, and then sanded to blend it in. Its lightest to use a small piece of 1/16 balsa to fill any cracks and gaps. Basically sand the pieces at an angle (like a wedge) then a drop of foam-safe CA and press them in place. They shave well with a knife and a few passes with the sanding block and they are flush with adjacent surfaces. A good light technique.



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RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 4/28/2008 9:19:51 AM   
Don Szczur



Posts: 986
Joined: 1/6/2002
From: Chantilly, VA, USA
Status: offline 		One last check of the setups before final finishing. I found the fuselage sides, as accurate as they are (at the balsa junctions), its much more accurate than incidence meters. Basically you can get down to 1 /64 inch accuracy. Airframe is together- its starting to look like a plane. Elevator cutouts. Mark 3 1/4 inches from the TE at the elevator edge (vs tip). Per plans. Cut using band saw using the foam chuck as a guide for good straight cuts that are perpendicular. 1/4 inch TE of stab and 3/8 inch LE of elevator.



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RE: Magic VF3 building thread - 5/5/2008 4:32:41 AM    <