Balsa USA Stearman - 1/3
- Kit
Seller:lennyh Details:
$1,000.00
| 6/24/2008
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[/quote] I wanted to put a smoke system on this model and therfore expected the weight to be in the 20lbs + - . I thought that would be heavier that the 50 would handle and anticipated using the 85. After looking at the 85 at our LHS next to the 50 and seeing how much larger it is I am now having second thoughts. [/quote]
Doug,
Don't do smoke on this one (to tight inside) and work on lightening as much as you can, If you can get it at 17-18 lbs out her, a DA-50 will Fly it. That's just my .02 cents, this a great IMAC type Plane.
Posts: 110
Joined: 6/20/2006 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: zzw26n
I wanted to put a smoke system on this model and therfore expected the weight to be in the 20lbs + - . I thought that would be heavier that the 50 would handle and anticipated using the 85. After looking at the 85 at our LHS next to the 50 and seeing how much larger it is I am now having second thoughts.
Doug,
Don't do smoke on this one (to tight inside) and work on lightening as much as you can, If you can get it at 17-18 lbs out her, a DA-50 will Fly it. That's just my .02 cents, this a great IMAC type Plane.
Ward, I think you are correct. I will continue to build it a light as possible and see how it turns out on the scale.
I spent some time this week framing up the cockpit hatch. Albert your suggestion to pin it to the fuse and build it up worked great, thanks. I also cut out the servo mounts and sheeted the horizontal stabs and instrument panel. I was going to leave out the instrument panel for weight savings, but decided it was needed for strength when I join the cockpit frame to the front hatch. I plan to run two 7" tubes through the former into the front hatch and the instrument pannel foam to make a strong joint.
I also made one cutout on the fuse side and fitted a wing pannel throught to the stress plate. I will then butt join 1/16" sheeting between the wing cutout and the stress plate as the plans call for to strengthen the fuse side.
Posts: 38
Joined: 1/4/2007 From: Lake MAry,
FL, USA Status: offline
Doug, Nice work. I have pieces of a 300s left over from a tree incident. I really enjoyed the plane before then. I flew mine with a 3W70 and it was 21# with very little equipment. Single battery and receiver. It did well at that weight but I think a da50 would be very small and a DA85 would be very large. Good luck with the build. Mark
Posts: 110
Joined: 6/20/2006 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
Thanks Ward, and Mark for the recommendations.
A change of plans with the siding around the wing root. I ditched the 3/32" sheets included with the kit to fill out the wing pockets, with exception of one at the root tip. I decided to cut 6mm strips of 3/32 and cap the root opening to strengthen the side and provide a place to terminate my covering. I then used 1/4 square stock to brace from under the rootcap back to the inner stress plate. This provided a very stiff and strong side. Much sanding and fitting and repeat... With a taper on the wing to the root, making the pocket cutouts was a challenge in keeping the gap to a minimum.
Seems like I have been working for hours and not getting anywhere. While waiting for the fuse to dry, I attached the LE, TE and caps to the horizontal stabs. I will need to cut out the ailerons, elevator and rudder soon, any tips on what works best for this job?
Posts: 38
Joined: 1/4/2007 From: Lake MAry,
FL, USA Status: offline
Doug, Many different ways to do this. If I had a band saw I would have used that but I didn't. I tried the razor blade idea by cutting from both sides and that didn't work very well. I then went to Lowes and bought a hand saw. The saw looks a lot like a miter box saw but does not have the reinforced backboone. It was a stiff saw, small teeth and tall. I layed the parts in their shucks and this worked very well. I cut close to my line and sanded the rest with a bar sander. Mark
Posts: 110
Joined: 6/20/2006 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Mark786
Doug, Many different ways to do this. If I had a band saw I would have used that but I didn't. I tried the razor blade idea by cutting from both sides and that didn't work very well. I then went to Lowes and bought a hand saw. The saw looks a lot like a miter box saw but does not have the reinforced backboone. It was a stiff saw, small teeth and tall. I layed the parts in their shucks and this worked very well. I cut close to my line and sanded the rest with a bar sander. Mark
Mark, we think alike. I too used a blade on both sides and then finished the cut with a straight fine tooted hand saw. I had good results on the one elevator half I cut out. I have a scroll saw now and may try that on the other half to see if that works any better.
I finished up the top hatch, joining it with the cockpit for a one piece top deck like on the big birds. I cut slots in the top of the formers for the hatch tabs and glued in some hard stock on the inside fuse for attachment using six 4-40 screws. Then I added the remainder of the aft fuse side stringers to flush out the fuse and sanded everything for a perfect line.
Posts: 110
Joined: 6/20/2006 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
In an attempt to save some weight in the tail, I elected to leave out the S-1 (horizontal stab mounts) and router out the saddle to fit the fuse. I made a template and then set up my Dremel router to remove the mid saddle. Before setting the horizontal stab, I made sure it had zero incidence and cut a piece of glass cloth to fit in the routed out saddle.
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RE: 30% 300S mod to mid wing? - 
