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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/1/2008 5:20 AM   
Canuck1



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Status: offline 		The plans call for removing the forward portion of the aileron, so the aileron has a length from the trailing edge of 3 inches. Then adding 1/2 in balsa to the front. I used the same method as for cutting out the ailerons, and the hot wire made an easy job of it. When this is dry I will cap the ends of the aileron after I cut it down to fit in the aileron bay.

Craig

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< Message edited by Canuck1 -- 2/1/2008 5:22 AM >

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/1/2008 5:28 AM   
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Status: offline 		very nicely done Craig

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/1/2008 5:50 AM   
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Status: offline 		Thanks. Just taking my time so it turns out well. I have marked out the flaps on the fiberglass fuse, and on the wing. I hope to get the flaps cut out on the fuse tonight.

Craig.

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/1/2008 7:02 AM   
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Status: offline 		Got the flaps cut out. Took a lot of work using a zona saw. Now the fun, but dreaded flaps need to be constructed.

Craig

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/2/2008 1:57 AM   
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Status: offline 		Hey Craig:
You may have seen this but its pretty awesome

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7166330178234459087&pr=goog-sl

Dave

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/2/2008 5:34 PM   
Canuck1



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Thats a great clip. That must have been pretty nerve racking landing on those small decks.
A little bit of progress on my Corsair. Have the leading edge balsa glued to the flaps and the balsa in the wing trailing edge just sitting in location. I will glue that after I am satisfied that the fit will be good.

Craig

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/2/2008 11:20 PM   
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Status: offline 		Been working on the flaps. I have the inner and outer marked, and have been positioning the TE piece within the wing. Getting it just right has taken a bit of time. I have it glassed into location with some .75 oz cloth, when this sets uo I will do another layer of .75 oz.

Craig

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/3/2008 1:29 AM   
bigguyplanes


 

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Status: offline 		Great work Craig !
I guess you will want me to find you another 62 now !

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/3/2008 6:01 AM   
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Status: offline 		I have 2 G-62's now One in the Pup, the other will go in the P-47 when I get the B&B mount that I ordered. I will just swap 62's with the P-47. Who knows, another G-62 maybe an option. I may need to build a twin next with 2 G-62"s.

Craig

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/3/2008 6:11 AM   
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Status: offline 		or a big B-17 with 4 of em

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/3/2008 6:36 PM   
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That would be a monster of a plane. Perhaps a little to big.
Back to the Corsair, I was looking at the aileron design and it calls for a lead counter weight. I am not sure if this is required with the quality of servo's these days. Just dont know if it is needed or not. Anyone have an opinion on this?

Craig.


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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/3/2008 7:56 PM   
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Status: offline 		Counter balance is always a good thing, I had it on my first Corsair but not the second, to inlay some lead on the front of the ailerons, just to be safe would be good

Dave

< Message edited by WhoDaMan -- 2/3/2008 7:57 PM >

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/3/2008 8:55 PM   
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I will have a close look at it. I think they were originaly done due to servos, and to prevent flutter, dont realy know.
I have the flaps cut, and the ailerons have been caped at the ends with 1/32 ply, and it is sanded to shape.

Craig

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/4/2008 3:53 AM   
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Status: offline 		excellent job on the radiusing of the aileron TE

BTW I have seen a similar sized Corsair a couple of years back suffer severe aileron flutter, it had good quality / torque servos so counterweight maybe a good choise.

I do recall reading a book on the Corsair mainly to do with the testing and development of it, in the book they discussed problems they had with flutter and they used counterweights and trim tabs to mitigate the problem.

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/4/2008 5:52 AM   
Canuck1



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Status: offline 		Thanks for the info Peter.
Spent most of the day working on the flaps. The balsa inserts for the hinges are epoxied in. The side pieces are on, just need to clean up the ends, glue 1/2in balsa to the leading edge, attach plywood sides and sand to shape. Tons to do.


Craig

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< Message edited by Canuck1 -- 2/4/2008 6:42 AM >

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/4/2008 6:47 AM   
AMA234



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Status: offline 		Craig,
I like how clean your model is looking. You're doing a great job! I just wish that the one I am working on looked that clean. LOL!
In some aspects youre ahead of me as far a progress goes and in other ways I'm ahead of you as some of the construction was already done to this model when I received it.

I have a question for anyone out there.

I am ready to install the elevator joiner wire and came upon an issue. My dilema is that the joiner wire already has the control arm braized to the wire and I cannot move it to help me facilitate installing the wire in the fuse. I don't want to cut out a huge section of the elevator root on the fuse so I have drilled a 3/8 inch hole on each side, nor do I want to shorten the torque arm of the joiner wire. The stab was already in place when I got the model and if the stab trailing edge spar wasn't in the way it would make the installation easier and the wire might go in; but removing the spar is obviously not an option!
Can anyone please tell me what it typically done here?

Thanks,
Les

p.s.
Craig,
Be sure not to PERMENANTLY install your flaps before sealing and priming them like was done on the model I am working on!

< Message edited by ama234 -- 2/4/2008 6:49 AM >

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/4/2008 2:49 PM   
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Glad you are asking that question. I was also wondering how to get that in there as well. Have not done any work on the tail section as of yet, so I might have an easier time to get it in there.
I will finish all my control surfaces before they are installed perminately. I may need to move the rear dowel on the wing forward so it will not interfere with the flap linkage. Do you have any pictures of your flap area that you can post?
I find that I am doing lots of guessing with some parts of the construction, and I wish the pictures were of better quality in the instruction manual.

Craig

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/5/2008 5:13 AM   
AMA234



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Status: offline 		Craig,
Since you're okay with me posting some pics of my progress... here you go.

I had to fix the crooked and short half ribs on the each elevator and the rudder. Basically I took the crooked and short ribs (short meaning that they did not meet the L.E. and/or the T.E. leaving a gap), and replaced them with new balsa stock and sanded them down to meet the L.E. and T.E. taper. Upon hinging them I found out that the ribs were actually too short and did not match the airfoil and ended up adding balsa caps to the ribs, L.E. and T.E. to bring them to the proper height of contour. You can see what I mean if you look at the pics of the rudder. I should have checked this before I sanded down the ribs in the first place after replacing them!!!


The Elevator Joiner Wire I was able to get in place without having to cut any additional material or enlarging the 3.8 dia. holes in the stab root on the fuse. I simply bent one end of the 'U' a little, inserted it through the tail wheel access and was able to shoehorn, and I mean SHOEHORN it in each hole.


As far as the stab goes, I am going to do what check6 suggested and install a 1/2 inch dia. aluminum tube and glass it to the lite ply former that goes behind the tail wheel mounting bulkhead. I haven't done it yet because I am waiting on the Sierra Precision tail wheel assembly from my buddy WhoDaMan. C'mon Davey, I need that thing! LOL. I've never seen them before so I dont know if it will interfere with the ply former. Once I get it installed I will know exactly where to locate the ply former and then I will cut a channel and epoxy the tube in place. I will post pics of that when I get it done.

The flaps aren't anything real exciting unless you're the one doing them I guess! Everyone else will get the satisfaction of getting them rigged correctly as these were already done when I got the plane. I will however have to add some wood caps to close the gaps on the ends. Boy that will be a treat with them being permenantly installed!! They are however very free in movement and travel to 45 degrees.
In the instructions they mentioned 40 but I couldnt find my protractor so I used a combination squares 45 side.
At 45 degrees it measured just shy of 1 3/16 of an inch from flap tip to tip. This was the same on both sides which really suprised me.


Les



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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/5/2008 5:37 AM   
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Great pics Now I dont feel alone with the build. Spent most of the night working on the slitter plates and the female ends. They are good to go just need to glue them into location. I also put some plywood on the end of the centre flap where the ball link goes. I probably should have left it like you have in your last couple of photo's.
You have quite a bit done on yours I am going to have to catch up. LOL It is to bad that the flap leading edges have not been glassed. That is going to be a bit of a pain to finish up. Those cap strips on the rudder look great, it will look good once the fabric is on.
Keep the pics coming, as it is a great help, the pictures in the instructions are not the greatest.

Craig.

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< Message edited by Canuck1 -- 2/5/2008 5:42 AM >

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/5/2008 6:25 AM   
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Status: offline 		Slitter plates are done! and mounted to the sides of the flaps. Did not realize it was about a 4 hour job. As you can see, I have labeled the parts so I would not screw up which flap was which. My work bench is a total disaster, but it will have to wait until tomorrow to clean up the mess. Next step is to sand the edges of the ply to bring them flush with the fibreglass. Then I will sand the leading edge to get the desired shape. I will need to cut out the forward corner mount my ball link and plywood piece.
Keep the pics coming Les, they are a great help

Craig


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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/5/2008 7:59 AM   
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Status: offline 		you should see my benches! As a thought have you guys considered using dubro 4-40 captive ball links to drive the flaps? They are far more secure and robust then those little plastic ball links and they will not come off.

A lot of stress on that little link with those huge flaps out in the breeze.

cheers
PEter

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/5/2008 8:03 AM   
AMA234



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Status: offline 		Peter,
Thats a great idea. Thanks for the input. I will get some new hardware and change it out.

I wish I could have seen this kit before it had been started. It is always harder to go back and remove material and then add material back to make something right than if you had just done it in the first place.

But I have to give credit where credit is due. The person that originally did the work on this plane; although he messed up a lot of things on it, he did do a pretty nice job on the flaps. I only have two complaints on the flaps:
1. is that there is a wedge shaped gap between the inboard and outboard flaps.
2. they are permenantly installed and the wood is not glassed!

Other than that they are very free moving and they both operate to the same degree of geometry. and fit pretty flush with the wing skin.

I spent part of tonight adding yet again more balsa stock to the inboard 1/3rd of the right elevator and shaping it to fare with the elevator root on the fuse and tapering it toward the tip.

When you do get to the stab, be sure to leave enough overhang of the 1/32 inch ply sheeting on the T.E. so that you have an even overhanging lip the full span of the stab. On my model, I had to splice on some tapered strips to even out the lip. THAT was a pain in the butt. Easy, but still a pain. I had to do this for the left and right sides of the stab on top and bottom.

Does this kit typically come with a full size set of plans or just the small printed sheets? Because this model did not come to me with a set of ''plans" and there is NO reference on anything about the vertical or the stab in the skimpy instructions. LOL Though I can figure out what I need to do, it would be nice to have something to reference.

Have you thought about what you are going to cover the control surfaces with yet?

I gotta tell you, I feel like I'm with this one. But after it's done, it will have MY name on it.

Les


Anyone have Byron Corsair in a closet that they aren't going to build and want to get rid of?



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< Message edited by ama234 -- 2/5/2008 8:16 AM >

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/5/2008 3:54 PM   
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Status: offline 		Looks good Les
As for the 2-56 ball links, the ones I purchased are metal and look very strong. This is what has been used in these corsairs, and as far as I know there have been no issues with the linkage. 2-56 rod is not very strong, and you could always slide some brass tubing over it to add more strength. The 4-40 ball links are pretty big, and I think room may be an issue.
I was thinking that ball links could be used on the ailerons as well, so you can hide the linkage for a more scale look. Thoughts? I picked up some quick disconnects to use on the outer flap connection, that are made by sullivan for easy removal.

Craig

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/5/2008 4:34 PM   
AMA234



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ORIGINAL: Canuck1

Looks good Les
As for the 2-56 ball links, the ones I purchased are metal and look very strong. This is what has been used in these corsairs, and as far as I know there have been no issues with the linkage. 2-56 rod is not very strong, and you could always slide some brass tubing over it to add more strength. The 4-40 ball links are pretty big, and I think room may be an issue.
I was thinking that ball links could be used on the ailerons as well, so you can hide the linkage for a more scale look. Thoughts? I picked up some quick disconnects to use on the outer flap connection, that are made by sullivan for easy removal.

Craig


Craig,
Are these what you are referring to? If so, I hadn't seen them before but they certainly do look neat. I may pick up a couple of these.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV39&P=SM

Les

< Message edited by ama234 -- 2/5/2008 4:35 PM >

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RE: Byron Corsair Build - 2/5/2008 6:22 PM   
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Those are the ones that I was refering to. They seem real solid and they just pop on when the spring is compressed. I was even thinking on using these on the attached flap portion. Then they could be removed for maintenance and when setting the adjustment, just need to the size.

I was thinking about the horizontal stab today. What if before I assembled mine, I marked out holes in the plywood end pieces, matched them to the tail airfoil, and drilled the holes out. Then I could insert the front spar, and slide the wings right on, when I glue. This would ensure a good solid leading edge, then epoxy the back spar at the same time.
The spar would not have to be too long, and it would be a matter of cutting away some foam for the spar. Hope this makes sense.

Craig

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