RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build
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RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/14/2008 2:34:50 AM

Gremlin Castle

Posts: 1222
Joined: 2/9/2004
From: Arlington, TX, USA
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Your approach in the pictures will work just fine. The fuselage on this particular model has the roots molded in at the proper angle. Just block it to where the Robart reads 0 and put the firewall in at 90 degrees to the table surface. Set the horizontal stab at zero zero with the wing panels and balance it at the tick marks molded into the root fairings.
It is a very neutral flyer upright or inverted. It is just a touch squirrely on take off as there is a point where the tail wants to lift before the vertical fin and rudder become fully effective. In flight it grooves and is scale aerobatic capable.

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Post #: 51

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/14/2008 6:43:15 PM

Rocketman612

Posts: 2065
Joined: 1/19/2002
From: Enterprise, AL, USA
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Gremlin Castle thanks for the feedback.

derjager also responded with:

"Hi pete,

Have flown the WWR alot recently and am really enjoying it.

Last time I flew was at Joe Nall a few weeks ago, its on the front cover of the video and there is a feature on it as well.

I,m not sure of the incidence but it matches exactly the fairing so I would set it flush with the fairing.

Mine flies really well and does not balloon at full power. I think I said previously that the trim alters with the power setting.

At Joe Nall it was windy so landing was a handful in front of the cameras.

Best wishes

Steve "

I glued the aluminum rails in place with the wing incidence at 1 degree. The wood wing roots lined up with the fiberglass wing roots.
Will post photos later.

Thanks a bunch.
Pete

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Post #: 52

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/18/2008 12:58:00 AM

Rocketman612

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From: Enterprise, AL, USA
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Here are the rest of the photo's.

The formers are dry fitted then the wings were placed per instructions with the root TE on the same 1 1/4 in block as the fuse and the W7 rib supported by a 2 1/4 in block (mine was longer to makeup the difference in the in the root block) Incidence was checked and set at 1 degree. The wings were taped to the fuse. The aluminum extrusions were dry fitted and the formers adjusted and checked for level. The extrusions were sanded on the back cleaned with alcohol then epoxied in place and allowed to dry after checking all level points and wing incidence for a final time.

The aluminum extrusions were drilled and screws placed with blue locktight after hardening the holes with thin CA. The formers were replaced and everything shimmed again and measured. Aeropoxy was used to set everything. I did one side at a time and on the reverse made sure I was getting aeropoxy into the gaps between the former and the fiberglass. The dried result looks rock solid. No extra fiberglass will be used.

Pete

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< Message edited by Rocketman612 -- 6/22/2008 10:56:22 PM >

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Post #: 53

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/18/2008 1:04:05 AM

Rocketman612

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From: Enterprise, AL, USA
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the gap on the left wing joint will be filled in later. I left out the 8-32 socket head screws until the aeropoxy set. Now I'll drill the holes and set them.

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Post #: 54

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/18/2008 1:19:13 AM

DAN REISS

Posts: 216
Joined: 12/15/2002
From: MANHATTAN BEACH, CA, USA
Status: online

Hi, Are the aluminum joiner channels bolted to the spar with flat head machine screws and epoxied or just epoxied? Dan.

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Post #: 55

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/18/2008 4:04:16 AM

Rocketman612

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From: Enterprise, AL, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: DAN REISS

Hi, Are the aluminum joiner channels bolted to the spar with flat head machine screws and epoxied or just epoxied? Dan.

The aluminum extrusion pieces are first epoxied to the formers then drilled and screwed for reinforcement to the formers.

Pete

I edited the above post to better explain the process...

< Message edited by Rocketman612 -- 6/22/2008 10:58:25 PM >

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Post #: 56

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/22/2008 11:46:08 PM

Rocketman612

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From: Enterprise, AL, USA
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The mounting rails are next up. They were dry fitted before the formers were installed so little sanding needed here, Epoxied in place. The holes for the 4-40 1/2 in bolts were drilled and set into the aluminum extrusions. I had used a Sharpie marker on the plates to better see where to drill. The ply mounting plate was measured and drilled with a 3/16 bit. The holes for the blind nuts were enlarged with the Unibit to 7/32. Unfortunately the blind nuts protruded past the surface and needed to be filed down so the aluminum gear rest flush with the ply plate. The fuse needed trimming to make the gear fit flush with the plate and former. The plate was centered and 3/16 holes drilled in the rails. The Unibit was used to enlarge the holes for the blind nuts and they were placed with epoxy.

Pete

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< Message edited by Rocketman612 -- 6/24/2008 2:09:26 PM >

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Post #: 57

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/23/2008 12:06:05 AM

Rocketman612

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Time for flying wires...

At this point your to epoxy the ply plate to the rails then the servo tray to the top of the rails. once this is done your ability to access the inner fuse diminishes.

I've been toying with several options for flying wires. From the real thing to "faux" wires. The number of wires needed and the time to assemble and disassemble at the field eliminated real wires. I read a review on the GP BeeGee here on RCU and adding flying wires was shown http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=351

The results looked good but when I reviewed my WWR photo's the wires are very different. The entry points into the fuse and wing are clean going through the skin with no hardware shown. I decided to use the silver plastic lace material and make one continuous wire from the left gear up through a 5/16 styrene tube in the left wing to another styrene tube through the fuse out to the right wing down another tube through the wing and to the right landing gear anchor point. This gives only 2 wires and 4 clevises to deal with at the field.

Please give some feedback on this approach. The only consideration I see so far is the former for the engine mount. I dry fitted the former and it's real close to where the tube needs to run (see photo). Having the tube a few mm aft may be necessary.

Pete

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"Remember, all im offering is the truth, nothing more..."
Morpheus

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Post #: 58

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/24/2008 1:08:13 AM

Rocketman612

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From: Enterprise, AL, USA
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a few more photo's of the real thing. Both the #121 and #44 planes had 2 wires on top and 3 wires on the wing bottom. the wires on the #121 were offset a little while the #44 wing had them lined up even.

Some have used electrical "Snake Wire" for functional flying wires.

Pete

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Post #: 59

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/24/2008 1:48:39 PM

Babblefish7

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Joined: 6/21/2004
From: Fitchburg, MA, USA
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Hey Pete where did you take the picture of these planes?

Mark

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Post #: 60

RE: Byron Wedell Williams Racer Build - 6/24/2008 2:20:40 PM

Rocketman612