Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
The control surface horns are quite sturdy. They are very solid once screwed down. Normally, I would use a bolt and nut with a large washer on each side of the control surface to achieve an arrangement like this, but these work very well. Just make sure you drill the holes through the control surface nice and square, or you'll spend the next half an hour trying to push the screws in or out to meet the holes in the backing plates
Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
This model has ditched the traditional cabane arrangement (thankfully!) in favour of a centre mounted 'pylon' for the top wing. The holes for this are already cut into the nose deck sheeting and bracing is fitted to the formers underneath. I taped the assembly down to hold it in place while the epoxy set. There is a gap at the front of the pylon that could probably do with filling from the inside, but you can't get to it. Fortunately, the cowl will need to have a slot cut in it to fit around the pylon, so it will cover the gap.
Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Time to start work on making the cowl fit properly. Along with the slot that needs to be cut in the top, I had to remove the bottom of the 'bulges' at the bottom corners of the rear of the cowl, right in front of the landing gear covers. I'm not sure if World Models intended for the builder to have to do this, but if you don't, there's no way you can get the cowl back far enough to clear the spinner at the suggested distance from the firewall. Either way, the dremel makes short work of it.
Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
My aileron servos have finally turned up. As I mentioned in one of the first posts of this review, I ran into a problem getting a standard servo to fit in the wing, so I've gone for 'Mighty Mini HS225BB Hitec' servos. These are doing 3.9kg of torque at 4.8v, so should be more than enough for this model. You're required to epoxy a couple of balsa blocks to the underside of the hatches in the wing to mount the servos to. A couple of the blocks that were supplied with the kit were quite soft, so I replaced them with some harder balsa stock I had already. I'm not that keen about putting servo screws straight into balsa block, so after I had the blocks attached and I'd run the screws in and out, I put some thin CA down the screw holes for strength, then soaked the outside of the blocks in thin CA too. They're much stronger now. Same goes for the screw holes for attaching the hatches. These go into lite ply in the wing, so I gave these holes the CA treatment too.
You'll see I had to use the adjustable length arms to get them poking far enough out of the top of the hatch. Unfortunately, the longest standard horn supplied with these servos just isn't quite long enough. I may see if I can get some longer standard ones and get rid of these adjustable ones (which I'm not that keen on using).
< Message edited by mrbonk -- Mar 20 2002 10:10AM >
Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
The aileron control rods are short/thick enough to avoid any flexing and you're supplied with short lengths of fuel tubing to slip over the links once they're on. No way any of these are coming loose!
One thing I'm not keen about is just leaving these hatches screwed down with 2mm screws. I've got some Prather Radio Box Tape, which I'll be using to seal the edges AND cover the screw heads once I'm finished with the servo adjustments. That way, the screws can't vibrate and come out. Given that the hatch is the only thing holding the servo in position, I think this is an important thing to do.
This is what the entire thing looks like with the hatch on.
Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
After some measurements were made on the clear half-cowl, it was time to take to the real one with the dremel. Fortunately the half-cowl lined up perfectly so all I had to do was start small and just keep making the holes bigger a little at a time until they were right. There's no real 'gotchas' with this.....just take your time and only do a little at a time. Don't just hack away blindly!
Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
You'll need a needle valve extension wire. I just used a piece of an old pushrod I had. The needle on the YS comes with a tapped grub screw hole for exactly this purpose
Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Here it is, with the prop and spinner installed. It looks very neat, even if I *do* say so myself A tip here - the screws that hold the cowl on just go straight through the side of the fuse. You need to put some CA down the holes *after* you've put the screws in and out once, just to coat the threads (for strength) and seal the balsa against oil.
Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
I put the pilot figure and the canopy on next. Same as with the engine cowl, the screws go straight into the fuse.....into balsa in the case of the top 2, so run CA down the holes again. I'm not overly keen on the pilot figure actually.....I have a couple of Eric Cartman toys around the place somewhere here, so I think one of those will end up in there shortly
< Message edited by mrbonk -- Mar 25 2002 9:24AM >
Posts: 600
Joined: 2/18/2002 From: BundabergQueensland, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Time to put the radio gear in. This is pretty standard fare, with a couple of birch (ish) rails for you to mount your servos on. No tricks to that bit. The connectors you're supplied with for the pushrod ends are quite good. The servo end ones are the standard 'post' style ones, where you put the pushrod wire through the hole and secure it with a grub screw. Loctite is your friend here The wire ends of the pushrods weren't that much too long, so I didn't bother trying to cut them off. There's so much room inside this fuse anyway, you don't have to worry about catching them on anything!
Printable Version
All Forums >> Radios, Batteries, Clubhouse and more >> User Product Reviews >> World Models Ultimate 120s 
World Models Ultimate 120s - 
