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Gary thank you, that's what I needed and what I kinda expected. It was set up like the B25 strafer versions, as in lay out of the guns in the nose. And the pods are clear enough to make them.
Again my thanks for taking the time to look her up. I'll see about rounding up a copy of the book.
Now back to the subject. Wow paint match is great. Rustolium you say. Water based or enamel? On mine I went to the local Lowes and had them match up some flat house paint, water based latex. Matched well but was easily scuffed up.
I've been using Lowes a lot for paint matching on these CMP birds, I've had the P38, and still have the big Corsair and P47, all have Lowes paint on them. And the folks at Lowes don't look at me as funny as they used to when I come in dragging part of an airplane with me.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: LearnedInUk
hope this helps..
LearnedInUK, nice job on isolating that picture. Someday I will figure out how to do that. Thanks. Hope your enjoying my modifications. She is looking less and less like a Nitro bird.
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BB, my pleasure on the picture. Wish it was better in quality for you. Your right on the nose guns. Thought I saw that configuration some where else.
The paint match is even closer that it looks in the pictures because of the florescent lighting. Walmart, Lowe's, and Home Depot (HD has a whole display on an isle for the camo flat colors from Rust-o-lium) all have the rattle can Rust-o-lium camo colors. The green is almost a perfect match to the Nitro green camo and is totally flat. Other colors I am using strait from the can are Flat White, Flat Black, Grey Primer, Chrome, camo Light Tan, camo Brown, and they have a satin Clear that I will used after all the panel lines - distressing - paint chipping - dirt - streaking - and foot prints, are on the ship. I'll do some of the detailing with chock colors. Then after the clear to seal it all in, I'll use some scotch bright to dull it a bit. Hope it works.
Worked on the wing cover 'hatches' and have a series of pictures for that. I made some templates to post as well. Even if a guy doesn't do all this other stuff, that is an easy way to handle the plastic covers that will make them stronger.
< Message edited by ram3500-RCU -- 2/29/2008 2:20:38 PM >
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Again, if you do no other modifications to this plane, this is a nice fix for the fragile plastic wing covers, and is easy to do. I'll scan and post templates to do this later today.
Here is the process I used to make the covers into hatches. I roughed up the inside of the plastic cover and used Gorilla glue to attach it to the frame. This stuff sticks to anything. Be sure to use wax paper, or you will have a mess on your wing, and be calling Nitro for replacement covers (not a good scenario ). 6" stretch wrap and a minimum of tape was used again to hold the cover in place while the glue sets. This is easily removed and won't pull the paint. Some tape is needed to hold the wax paper in position so it doesn't get between the plastic cover and the frame. The tape on the inside, in the picture of the hatch upside down, is backing up some more Gorilla glue I put in some voids.
As far as the fastening, the dowels were easy and were drilled in with the front former in place, I just need to work out the rear fastener. I want to do something not so visually obvious. I thought of going through the hole for the exhaust, but I want to attach it to the boom and not the wing, as in the front.
The whole thing added less than 2oz.
< Message edited by ram3500-RCU -- 2/29/2008 5:22:05 PM >
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To do it with no external signs, a couple of rare earth magnets would hold it no problem. Magnets imbedded in the boom side wood, and two tiny flat washers on the cover side. I use this on a lot of my hinged canopies, and it works like a charm. The tiny 1/4 versions are dang strong when they grab something.
Oh and very ingenius on the cover conversion. I had never even considered that. Mine had used 4 hair pin clips to hold the covers on.
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Here is a template sheet with some brief instructions. I'm here for any questions you may have.
GG, on the magnets, I use them extensively on small electric stuff, and for smaller access hatches all the time. They do a nice job. In this case, and maybe I'm over thinking this, but I was looking to augment the existing wing bolts and use this hatch to also clamp the wing in place. I did have to cut into the OEM mounts to make room for the tires when retracted, and leaving the booms removable, I'm looking to add to the fastening system. I'm going to spray some foam inside the covers when done to add to their strength. It will help and add no weight.
Sorry, but I just noticed that I didn't locate the front dowels on the templates. If you need this info, just email or PM me. Clamp the front former on the boom with the wing in place and drill through both it and the boom for perfect aliment. Hit the center of the former in the boom. I used 5/32" dowel because I had it within arms length. 1/4" would be fine. I glued the dowels in from the back side with some thick CA, once the framework was done and before I glued the plastic on.
Took me about 45 min. for each side including cutting the pieces. One of the easier improvements for this plane.
If someone tries this template, please let me know how this works for you. If it is OK, I'll go ahead with posting some of the other ones I have for the other mods I've made to the booms. I have templates for formers, gear doors, and some other supporting structures, like the gear mounting plates.
< Message edited by ram3500-RCU -- 2/29/2008 5:49:37 PM >
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Over thinking it? LOL. Ok then a spring loaded latch on the rear would be the way to go. Back the former on the boom with liteply, the one right behind the TE of the wing, to make it stronger. Mount a latch in the cover. Probably need to add a piece of liteply under the cover to tie the tops of the formers you added to it together and give you more strength. Engage the pins in the front, align and press down the cover to help secure wing. Locate position of latch and cut out hole in the former.
You could use a push button type actuated latch instead of a slider. Would be easier to hide on the supercharger portion of the cover then. Or if you use a slider type latch, the knob could be made to be almost invisible, just the slot for it to move would be.
Latch is easy enough to build, especially with your obvious skills. Piece of heavy control rod, ball point pen spring, couple of washers, balsa block and a little silver soldering.
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"The Missing Man Formation" Looking heavenward you cannot help but shed a tear...mornful...lonesome...a hole that screams out almost as loudly as the roar of the engines that pass over head.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Glacier Girl
Over thinking it? LOL. Ok then a spring loaded latch on the rear would be the way to go. Back the former on the boom with liteply, the one right behind the TE of the wing, to make it stronger. Mount a latch in the cover. Probably need to add a piece of liteply under the cover to tie the tops of the formers you added to it together and give you more strength. Engage the pins in the front, align and press down the cover to help secure wing. Locate position of latch and cut out hole in the former.
You could use a push button type actuated latch instead of a slider. Would be easier to hide on the supercharger portion of the cover then. Or if you use a slider type latch, the knob could be made to be almost invisible, just the slot for it to move would be.
Latch is easy enough to build, especially with your obvious skills. Piece of heavy control rod, ball point pen spring, couple of washers, balsa block and a little silver soldering.
Good idea that I didn't think of. I actually have a couple spring loaded latches that work sorta like speed screws on full scale. I'm going to look into it. Thanks.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: LearnedInUk
quote:
Hope your enjoying my modifications
Enjoying is a gross understatement. I am like a little kid on Christmas when i get an email stating there is an update.
Put me on your list for some templates. Can't wait to try it.
I'm glad you're enjoying this. I sure am. I'd like to see how hard it is for the template page I posted to be reproduced in the correct size. I don't know how accurate printers will be. I think sizing them up or down a little will be fine, but I'd be interested in knowing how it goes if someone gets a chance to print it out and play with it a little. If it works well, I can send the whole package in an email for you. I just need to organize them so they will all fit on normal size pages. Please let me know. Thanks.
Getting some color on her is really getting me revved up. While the base white is curing on the booms and wings (got the ailerons and flaps installed with pinned hinges prior to painting), I will start on the cockpit and other detail, but I still need that nose gear installed to verify how much room I have to work with.
Still waiting for it and the LHS called Robart today and was told it hadn't shipped yet, this, after they told us it had last week. The 747 and its special valve was then canceled and a 640 ordered (air up-air-down, normal valve), which my hobby shop can get from one of their normal distributers. I WILL have this one in a couple days. I can't wait to see this bird up on its wheels in a scale nose high stance with gear doors dangling underneath.
< Message edited by ram3500-RCU -- 2/29/2008 9:19:21 PM >
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I'm satisfied with the fit on the starboard wing hatch. I went ahead with the same process on the port one and the glue is setting up. Still need to install the rear fasteners.
You can see the wing sections and tail sitting in the background. Paint is curing on them. I just roughed in the white and will do the Grey and Green tips and the black all at once went dry. Really looking forward to seeing them with those black stripes.
Anyone tried printing the template yet to see how close they come to the 5 1/16" bench mark?
< Message edited by ram3500-RCU -- 3/1/2008 1:08:22 AM >
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft >> RE: Nitroplanes 90" P-38 (1/7 scale) with 3 piece wing and more 
RE: Nitroplanes 90" P-38 (1/7 scale) with 3 piec... - 
). 6" stretch wrap and a minimum of tape was used again to hold the cover in place while the glue sets. This is easily removed and won't pull the 
