Druss

I've noticed there are a lot of posts lately on what does this switch or knob do? And a few accidents from those that tried to fly without finding what all the switches and knobs do....

So I thought a post on what everything on the transmitter does was in order.

First here is the [link=http://www.rc711.com/shop/pub/manuals/RC711.com-ESky_4&6Channels_Transmitter_Instruction%20Manual.pdf]manual[/link]. This manual covers all the fm transmitters that Esky currently sells so it pertains to the Lama V3/V4 right up to the Belt CP.

I'm going to try and give a short tutorial here on what everything on the transmitter does. I'm not going to cover the power button though cause if you can't find it then you should give up right now

Sticks: These are the parts that controls the flight of the helicopter, from throttle to directional movement.

Left Stick: Up/Down controls the throttle and pitch, because this is a preprogramed ccpm transmitter the two are linked and there are few options on changing them. The biggest factor is that you cannot use servos that turn in the opposite direction from the stock esky servos. So no hitec servos if using the stock transmitter. Servos that work are Futaba, Tower Hobby SG90... etc.
Left Stick: Left/Right controls the rudder or yaw. This is basically the rotation of the heli, most common is that you control the nose so if you push the stick right the nose turns to the right.

Right Stick: Up/Down controls the elevator. This is the forward and backward movement of the helicopter (and swashplate)
Right Stick: Left/Right controls the aileron. This is the side to side movement of the helicopter (and swashplate)

Trim Tabs: The little tabs to the inside and under the sticks are the trims.
You can use these to make small adjustments to the servo positions in order to correct for good flight. I.E. if your heli is flying slightly to the left and keeps wanting to such that you have to put constant right aileron to compensate for it then move the tab under the right stick to the right until it stops. If the trim is all the way to the right and you're still drifting left then you'll have to go back and fix the mechanical set up. While I'm not going to cover the mechanical set up in this thread I will state that mechanical set up is paramount, with correct mechanical set up the trims should be at, or very close to, center.
Note: the rudder trim must be centered in order for the heli to initialize.

Servo Direction: There are flat switches at the bottom right face of the transmitter.
These change the direction of the individual servos, we have found that there are quite a few stock configurations but your transmitter should come with the tabs in the correct positions. You should always check that the swashplate does the correct movement for the stick inputs (please disconnect the motor from the esc before testing).

GW SW: The is in the top left on the face of the transmitter.
This controls the mode the gyro is in, either head holding (HH) or Rate. Since the stock gyro is rate only it doesn't really matter what position the switch is in. Even if you have a HH model the switch sets the gain value which most have found is too low. The suggestion is that you don't plug the single wire into the receiver and change the gain on the gyro manually.

Idle Up/ 3D Switch: This switch is at the top left of the transmitter and should be labelled "idle".
The switch changes the throttle curve from a straight line in normal mode (linear from 0 to 100 throttle) to a "V" shape, 100% at top stick, 50% at mid stick then 100% at bottom stick. This in combination with the pitch curve allows you to do many 3D maneuvers and fly inverted. DO NOT TOUCH this switch until you're ready to (can hover in all orienations, fast forward flight and figure 8s).

Trainer Switch: This switch is at the top right of the transmitter.
The trainer switch is used when you have a second transmitter connected to the main transmitter and can take control of the heli while the switch is held in the down position (it must me held). Standard practice is to have the more experienced person with the main transmitter and the beginner with the second one, this gives the experienced pilot with the ability to take control when he deems necessary (prevents surprising him too).

Hover Pitch Knob: This knob is at the top left of the transmitter, just in front of the Idle Up switch.
The pitch curve on the heli is linear from -1 to +7 (they can vary a bit). The knob moves the pitch curve (line really) up and down such that increasing the pitch curve will change the range to an example of +1 to +9, notice that the range stays the same (8 deg). As you can see this has the effect of increasing the pitch for a given throttle point, if you think you need more throttle because the pitch of the blades is bogging your motor then decrease the Hover Pitch.
Note: the Hover Pitch knob will affect both normal and idle up modes.

Pitch Trim Knob: This knob is at the top right of the transmitter, right in front of the trainer switch.
This knob changes the curve of the pitch curve but not the start or end points, you can put a curve such that you have less pitch response at low throttle and it increases as you move the throttle stick up (the pitch curve would look like the right side of a bowl). You can also make the pitch more sensitive at low throttle and less so at the top.
Note: the Pitch Trim knob only affects the pitch in normal mode.

As you can see, by using a combination of the Hover Pitch and Pitch Trim knobs you can change both the start and end points as well as the curve of the pitch curve so while you can't pick specific points on a pitch curve you can choose the end points (with the limit that the range is the same) and either put an upward or downward curve to it.

If there is anything that I've missed, please feel free to add your comments.

NOW INCLUDES BELT CP [link=http://www.twf-sz.com/english/download/manual/Beltcp.pdf]MANUAL[/link], this is the good one.

cactus hopper

"If there is anything that I've missed, please feel free to add your comments."

When and if you read the manual start on page #1.

kenhiraihnl

hey druss...excellent summary of the esky transmitter...esky should incorporate your explanation in their manual, and do the right thing by sending you a check for your support of their products...ken

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

So the pitch trim is more like exponential on my planes

Druss

ya, the pitch trim creates a curve like you would get on an exponential for the cyclic controls but on pitch instead.

dicharry

My Feedback: (16)

Druss,
Do you know if the Esky transmitter with the HBK2 (EK 0406A PPM) is negative shift or positive shift?
I'm buying a receiver and need to match the shift and channel.
Matching the channel is no problem, but I'm hoping you might know what shift (+ or - ) the TX is.
Another question I have is what is the designation PPM ?
I would have downloaded the manual, but everytime I use Adobe Acrobat Reader, my Internet Explorer program
shuts down
Thanks Druss...
Don

Druss

Esky is negative shift (some have had success using futaba crystals in them).

PPM is Pulse Position Modulation
PCM is Pulse Code Modulation

Both are on the FM band, PCM can just transmit more information than PPM can.

7thSon

Just purchased a Belt CP. The transmitter has a charging jack, but no transmitter charger? Are you suppose to use the power supply for the battery charger?

EPHeliGuy

My Belt CP Tx (transmitter) also has a charging jack, but the batteries are alkaline (not rechargeable). The charging jack is in case you get a rechargeable battery pack and matching charger.

The power supply is for the LiPo battery charger.

zachmccool

Can this be stickyed?

tahitiwibble

Too true Ken, so true.

raindelay_wa

Very cool post Druss. One question......I am trying to learn what the hell all that babble about hover pitch and trim pitch is all about, but it just seems to be out of reach for me. I would like to think, that my I.Q. is slightely higher than Forrest Gump, but I just can't seem to get it. So, for now, I have heard some people say, just leave both knobs at 0, and other people say, that for new pilots, bout 10 o'clock, and 2 o'clock respectively, are the best settings. What settings would you suggest for people that are struggling to get this down.....Thanks a million for all of your guidance and help.

Druss

I'll try to see if I can make it clearer for you starting with the basics on what a pitch curve is.

I'm sure you know what "pitch" is so we'll go from there. CCPM heli's mix pitch and throttle curves so that when you move the throttle stick the pitch also changes. In normal mode the pitch will increase as you increase throttle. If both the knobs are set at zero and you've set the pitch correctly in idle up mode such that you have 0 pitch at mid stick, then you should have a linear pitch curve (line) from -1 to +7. This means that at bottom stick (0 throttle) you have have -1 pitch on the main blades and at top stick (100 throttle) you have have +7 pitch. This knob is mainly used as a pitch trim (regardless of the name) so that if you can't get 0 degress of pitch at mid stick in idle up you can use this knob to move the pitch curve so that it is exactly 0.

Now the hover pitch knob will move the entire pitch line up and down so I'll give you some examples (not the actual pitch settings). So in normal mode and hover pitch set at 0, you have -1 pitch (bottom stick), +3 pitch (mid stick) and +7 pitch (top stick), if you turn the knob clockwise (to the 3 oclock position) you'll make the pitch settings +1 (bottom), +5 (mid) and +9 (top). If you turn the knob counter clockwise to the 9 oclock position you have -3 (bottom), +1 (mid), +5 (top).

In effect you've changed the pitch of the main blades at the different throttle positions.

Now to the pitch trim knob, this knob adds a curve to what was previously a straight line. This may be done for various reasons but mostly it's so that you can allow the rotor rpms to increase faster than the pitch a low throttle (this allows for better tail control). You can also use the hover trim knob to do this but since it changes the low and high pitch settings you may not like that. For instance, if you increase the hover trim setting you'll probably bog down the motor by adding too much pitch when you don't have enough rpms. So turn the pitch trim knob clockwise and you'll end up with a curve with the start point at -1 (assuming the hover trim knob is set at 0) and the end point at +7 but there is now a curve to the line which would be below the straight pitch line. What this means is that as you increase the throttle (which is linear) the pitch won't increase at the same rate as the curve starts out fairly horizontal, it will increase slowly then faster and faster as the curve of the line starts to get more vertical (see picture below, the dashed line below the straight line).

Now you can combine the two in order to change the entire pitch curve (except to make the range bigger, this is a function of how far out on the servo arm the link is attached, the farther out on the link the larger the range).

Hope that helps

raindelay_wa

Did I ever tell you, that your my hero Druss....That made a lot of sense. I wouldn't say that I am at 100% understanding, but after reading your post, I would say that I went from about 20%, to about 90%. I really appreciate the fact that you take the time and bother to share your knowledge and understanding of this hobby. I am sure that sometimes, its got to be frustrating, maybe it feels like your talking to a brick wall, but day after day, I read the different posts and there you are always freely giving of your knowledge. Just want you to know, people such as I are HONORED to have a teacher such as you..........Thanks.

planepounder

Hey all, I tried to put my Honeybee on my 7C Futaba. The crystals look physically identical, and the Futaba is negitive shift, but nothing happens. My Esky trans. is on ch21, my Futaba on 41 does anybody know if Esky is hi/lo banded like Futaba, if so that would explain it.

ArrowNaughtic

Have you tried getting a Esky Rx crystal? Not sure about Esky's Rx's but the Eflite ones required a single conversion aka "short" crystal in order to work. I had tried to put a xtal in my eflite Rx's but the morons at the LHS I used to go to kept getting the dual conversion crystals. they then got mad when I refused to pay for it after I had told them I ordered a single conversion one.
I finally gave up on going that route and switched to a DX6 and AR6000........ no LHS brainiacs to deal with there.......


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Of all the things I ever lost....................................... I miss my mind the most!

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

Shoot I'm still trying figure out how you can watch tv and record at the same time

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

You know, and I have not bothered to look but does esky have a selection of 72 crystals?

planepounder

Thanks for the reply- The Esky crystal is identical in shape and size as the Futaba. That doesnt mean it is the same tough. You maybe right about single vs. dual conversion. I will go to the Esky website to see if I can figure it out. It would be great to have all the features on a computer radio for the Honeybee, especially exponential.

raindelay_wa

I just watch the tv downstairs and then turn the tv upstairs on to a different channel that I want to watch. Then, I set up my cam corder and point it toward the tv, and hit record. I have heard rumors that there is an easier way, but I don't believe it....

Druss

just added the better belt cp [link=http://www.twf-sz.com/english/download/manual/Beltcp.pdf]manual[/link] direct from the TWF website. This is the longer version which shows all the upgrades and how to assemble them.

RLTW

DRUSS,
Just wanted to throw a few more KUDOS at ya. I just bought a Belt CP, haven't flown it yet though. Spending alot of time on the sim first. Also, I built my own training gear out of 3/16x36 inch dowels. Used perforated, hollow golf balls for the ends. Saved a ton of money and got the same result, maybe better.

Again, Thanx for all your input, it matters greatly to have people like you here to fill in the blanks.

oneocim

Hi Druss, do you know something about the swicth behind the batteries place in the esky Tx for?

JDBlackhawk123

I don't know if anyone replied to your question-so I will (just got a Honey Bee King II this past week-build quality looks real nice for this price range). These switches are used for connecting the USB to computer cable for using flight simulators. The default setiings are #1 off and #2 on. These switch to the opposite in order for the computer to see the transmitter-must be switched back to fly the heli. I just bought the cable from an eBay vendor who explained this on his auction site, I don't remember who it was though. Now I need to know what the front switches (servo reverser) are supposed to be set to-I've left these set as is out of the box-I understand the functions, but without a transmitter manual, I have no idea-the helicopter user manual doesn't mention anything about the transmitter-it looks a little like the budget transmitters sold at Tower hobbies-I guess the transmitter manual must be a separate item somewhere. The aileron and throttle switches are set to normal, the elevator and rudder are switched negative. Also what is the gyro toggle for? Heck, just direct me to the d*** manual! I know I could figure out by experimenting, but if anyone can help me with these, thanks.

JDBlackhawk

JDBlackhawk123

Owww! Sorry Druss for the other post asking for info you've already provided, duh-I just found your link to the the esky manuals-well, good thing my head is bolted onto my neck lately. But thank you for the post. And I did manage to post about the DIP switches inside the transmitter, for the simulator cable. This copter looks like a keeper-I'm not a total newbie, but don't have much flight time with the CCPMs yet, only 2 and 4-channel. You're one of the good ones, I can see that!

JDBlackhawk