dittch
Posts: 171
Joined: 8/1/2006 From: Lafayette, IN, USA Status: offline
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this opinion is coming from someone who doesn't race, just a basher. the chassis needs some firming, but you can fix that with a piece of 7/16" or bigger aluminum rod, a drill, and a tap. Drill and tap both ends to accept a screw. I think I used an 8-32 tap/screw. Drill holes in each shock tower and put it between them. With the cooling head of the engine in the way, it will be more towards the passenger side. It essentially serves as an upper chassis. I have done this and had no problems. I mounted an iron bumper onto my ST to make it a destruction machine. I have hit everything from produce to an old TV (last weekend). It stands firm with my $5.00 chassis brace. I always had problems with the chassis bending, but putting that brace on ended it. I had the brace on long before I put the bumper on. One problem I had was with the differential shimming. I would shim them with the 0.1 or 0.2mm shims but they would wear out and I would have to re-shim. It was obvious when they wore because the gears would skip. I finally found a fix for these cheap shims. I ordered 8X14mm stainless shims (0.2mm thick) from mcmastercarr.com (part number A370-919). I replaced the cheap XTM shims with these (about 3-5 in each diff, varies and can be higher). No problems since. I also installed a 1/5 scale steering servo. To make it fit I had to relocate the receiver box...on top of the servo. Made custom mounts for it using ABS plastic from mcmastercarr of course. I needed more steering torque with the 1.5 pound iron bumper, but even without it the steering servo wasn't impressive. Steering is now amazing, and the tower servo was only $30. It is a true basher Oh, and as far as 1/8 scale car engines go, the .247 is a nice powerplant. I have an Hobao Mach 28 in mine now and the performance is essentially the same. In this case, bigger wasn't better, but I got the engine rediculously cheap on ebay so had to try
< Message edited by dittch -- 1/24/2008 4:17:21 AM >
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