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Michael211 -> RE: 90SP + CoolPower 10% fuel ok? (3/7/2008 5:53:33 PM)
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Hey ya'll!
I ran my 1st 16oz of CoolPower 10% Nitro in the 90SP on the test stand this past Wednesday. What a difference it made!
This was my 2nd time to run the engine. The 1st time I ran it I'd borrowed a tank of fuel from a fellow club member... I can't remember the brand, but the specs on that fuel were that it had some 8% Caster oil in it. I was trying to follow the RCV's instructions to the letter and was afraid to run the CoolPower I had (which I've used in my 2 cycle OS Engines for years now).
The 1st run with that other fuel the engine puked and dripped oil all over the place. It was a rather cool day so I had a jacket on and I was covered with oil droplets by the time I'd run some 6 oz or so of that fuel thru the engine. It was puking droplets of oil out the crankcase vent and dripping oil out the front seal really badly as the engine ran.
So this past Wednesday I took it back out to my club field and mounted it on the test stand again and this time ran a tank of CoolPower 10% full synthetic fuel thru the engine and it was a totally different experience! No more puking oil out the crankcase vent tube, and the drip at the front seal was nowhere to be found, and the engine seemed to me to run alot "easier". Also after a 20-25 minute run on the CoolPower the engine was ALOT cooler when I shut it down (err, actually ran the tank dry).
After 1st running it with the fuel with Caster Oil, the engine was extremely hot and untouchable for some 5 or 10 minutes after I shut it down and was smoking pretty badly from the heat.
This time though with the CoolPower (and a much warmer day, in the mid 70's) the engine didn't smoke at all after the run and I was able to immediately put my hand on the cooling fins... they were about as warm as a hot water pipe. Within 2 minutes I could touch the muffler and it was cool to the touch.
I think it might be of some benefit for anybody with these engines to try a few ounces of CoolPower (or some other full synthetic oil based 10% nitro fuel) and see what you think. It seemed to work alot better than the caster oil based fuel on mine!
Also I've read alot of posts about the starter bolt coming out of the engine. I can easily see how that would happen, especially if you try starting it with the throttle very far above idle! On heli's I use a starter wand with a 1-way bearing in the wand that lets the wand spin at whatever speed the engine wants once the engine starts. It makes it ALOT easier to remove the wand from the running engine also!
But on the RCV engine when using their wand to start behind the prop for the 1st time this Wednesday I could definitely feel the wand was in a bind as I tried to remove it once the engine started running. I started the engine at about 1/4 thottle and it was laboring against the starting wand as soon as it fired up. Obviously this sucker is trying to unscrew the bolt from the engine.
RCV engineers seriously need to look to the heli world to see how an engine should be started with a wand. When the engine starts to run on it's own, that wand needs to be able to freewheel at the engine's speed so that it doesn't 1) drag the engine down and 2) unscrew the starter bolt!
My guess is that the only workaround is to be sure to start the RCV with very low throttle setting... perhaps 1/8 throttle or less. I had to physically yank the starter out of the bolt to get it loose after the engine started. This is an issue that I don't like one bit.
Regards!
- Michael
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