RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price!

RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price!
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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 4/2/2008 2:34:53 AM

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If you chose the right APC prop for the application it will always perform better than an unmodified MAS flexible paint stick.

If you fly combat or crash a lot a rubber duckie is the prop to use.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 4/2/2008 3:47:44 AM

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From: Blackfoot , ID, USA
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Hey guys I finally received my engine today. Upon initial inspection it was like all the others posted in here purdy much froze up. Thanks to your posts I had a fairly good idea of what I needed to do. After a complete tear down I was pleased with what I saw for the most part . The Piston was free and moved easy up to the pinch point, but the finish is what caught my eye; the chrome was a very fine finish. So breaking in the engine should not require much plus it won't be removing much material in the process.

Its nothing like some of the chinese engines I have run across for finish in the cyl.

The carb was stuck but a little carb cleaner and it freed right up. I replaced the spring with a lighter one and deburred things. It now works great, nice and smooth.

The bearings were packed full of that crap and both froze. I happened to have a new rear bearing with a polimer cage, so that took care of that one. The front bearing I cleaned and cleaned untill it was nice and smooth and all that crap was gone. BTW it is a tiny guy, but I doubt it has any effect on the longevity of the engine.

I did see a couple things I didn't like. When the crank was made there was almost no radius cut in it where it steps up to the larger bearing dia. also the fuel/air passage hole was quite large and the crank is thin in that area.
The glow plug is junk in my book, spot welded idle bar is not going in any of my engines.

I replaced all of the slotted screws with socket head caps screws, like Kmot I had to machine them down to clear the counter bores in the head. I added 2 more head shims when I went back together for a total of 3 I may need to add the fourth one for my fuel we'll just see.

I made a header pipe from 6061 alum bar stock I'm starting out at 4.5 inches long I hope thats long enough. I stepped the manifold end up to .800 dia for a nice tight fit in the factory manifold.

When I make the finished pipe the header will be similar to a top fuse header, plus I'm going to use Kmots brilliant idea of the snap ring and spring. It shouldn't leak or back out with that setup.

One more thing my needle was froze I was afraid it was going to twist off before it came out, somewhere somehow water had gotten into it or moisture of some kind, it was rusted solid. The needle was easy to polish back up but cleaning the rust from the tube was a little different. The needle itself is pitted a little and may or may not function correctly, I'll know more tomorrow after I get it running .

FYI I bought a bag of the correct socket head screws for this engine at Fastinall My LHS didn't have squat as usual *L* So if anyone is interested in getting a set premachined for their engine PM me

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 4/2/2008 3:48:58 AM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: BTerry

Power increases with the CUBE of the increase of RPM (RPM^3).

I know this is the case for vehicle power vs velocity, but is it true for static rpm? Ah, I see that it is according to Pe's calculator.

Thanks for correcting me on that.

Mark

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/2/2008 4:32:49 AM

Kmot

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The Russian glow plug never failed in my three runs including 17K+. I don't know why it gets such a bad rap.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/2/2008 4:37:31 AM

w8ye

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The original plugs in my MDS engines would last about 10 min max

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/2/2008 4:39:32 AM

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Did yours have the spot welded idle bar, like some others have reported? I think that's why they bad mouthed it before using it.

Ed Cregger

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/2/2008 6:12:45 AM

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From: San Bernardino County, CA, USA
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.....I got a 45 yard toss with one of those glow plugs awhile back.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/2/2008 6:46:19 AM

Kmot

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger

Did yours have the spot welded idle bar, like some others have reported? I think that's why they bad mouthed it before using it.

Ed Cregger

Yes I think so. Look at the photo:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7298426

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/2/2008 3:03:39 PM

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Sorry I didnt give any explaination about the plug , It has a spot welded bar which I don't trust , I have seen the aftermath of what happens when one comes off during running, Instant Paper weight with oil .

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/2/2008 3:29:26 PM

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Yep, there it is.

Ed Cregger

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/3/2008 12:04:23 AM

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I fire up the Mac today ,Here is what my setup was tower plug, 3 head shims 15% castor syn fuel, 11x7 APC
Open header I got a reading of 12,650 fairly constant. I varied the RPM's for 2 full tanks which is only 4 OZ.each
I added the pipe and was getting a whopping 11,400 so I started cutting the header down a 1/4 inch at a time to try to bring it in. after I had cut off 1 1/2 inches the RPM's finally come up to 12,000. I have set up several pipes in the past but I have never seen one that wouldn't improve adding the pipe from a open header right off am I forgetting something here? or do I just need to shorten it more?

And just for Dave I tried a 11x7 Zinger prop cause I know he will tell me to *S* the results was less than desirable about 900 less than the APC. But spool up was nice.

As a rule I mark the head of the piston before removing it ,but I didn't on this one !
I was expecting a chamfer on one side of the large end of the rod and didn't really pay any attention to which way the piston faced untill I seen it has one skirt with a cut out in the bottom of it. Looking it over I decided that this went to the front of the engine to clear the front ports, Was I correct in this asumption?

I forgot to add this the engine is leaking alot of fuel from the front bearing ,which is not sealed but as a rule I have found what causes this is to much clearance between the housing and shaft also it would spit fuel out of the carb at certain RPM's, like it was building up crankcase pressure. I know it was going thru fuel like gangbusters ,but I had it leaned out both on the bottom and top ends.

Kmot I apologize for saying your RPM's was low heck id settle for those figures about now *LOL*

< Message edited by Cyberwolf -- 4/3/2008 6:59:13 PM >

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/3/2008 12:56:49 AM

XJet

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After conducting a post-mortem on my MAC/MDS I've decided that the center-section is in good enough condition to salvage so I'm going to make a new crankshaft and front-end plus a drum or disk-induction rear end.

It's pretty obvious that on these engines there's a trade-off between the crankshaft gas-passage diameter and maintaining enough material to stop the crank from breaking.

By using a rear-induction I'll be able to use a solid crankshaft which will be more than strong enough (since it won't have a gaping gash and hole up the middle) for the job.

The new crankshaft will have a slightly longer crankpin to engage a drum or disk on the back which will time the intake charge.

Don't expect to see anything in the near future -- this goes in a box with a raft of other "when I get around to it" projects sitting by the lathe. However, it'll be interesting to see how it performs with a stronger crank and less restrictive intake system.

If anyone else breaks a crank then let me know and maybe I'll make three or four of these replacement front and rear parts for the engine -- once you've set the tooling up it's not much harder to make a few than it is to make one.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/3/2008 4:28:38 AM

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I got my Russian Beast today in the post- Looks decent. The carb and needle assembly look used but overall I was impressed with the appearance. I would post pics but it looks like everyone else did already.

I dunno what did everyone decide on for a header? I already have a Rossi-60 quiet pipe that will work perfectly....I had thought I might put the MAC in my Whiplash but I got the K&B 7.5cc in there- maybe I will drop it in my Oakdale Phenom for kicks...

I can admit that I am just excited to have an engine for that price to screw around with. Until I can get one of those OPS- FIRE 60's off flea-bay at least-

Oh yeah, if I end up with a $99 VMAR arf or something does anyone have connections for a swan type header?

Cheerio-

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 4/4/2008 3:50:56 AM

eurof2

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From: Scappoose, OR, USA
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Has anybody else been able to fly with one of these? I wonder how long one of these will last as long as it is not abused? Hopefully the one broken crank that was reported will be the last.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/4/2008 4:59:02 PM

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From: Ramona, CA, USA
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So what kind of header you folks using?

(I am not bumping the thread, just asking a question)

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain pr... - 4/4/2008 9:03:45 PM