RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price!  
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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/23/2008 1:27:37 PM   
daven



Posts: 6762
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Very nice, sounds good. I would try a smaller prop though (11x6 apc would be nice to see) without exhaust. I won't get to run mine for a couple months.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/23/2008 5:30:46 PM   
Kmot



Posts: 7708
Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: online 		I will have to continue to use the muffler as long as I run it in my backyard. I don't want to be an obnoxious neighbor. When the time comes to run it open exhaust I will have to take it to a deserted area. Or possibly, run it till it is up to operating temperature, quickly remove the exhaust and run it briefly for 60 seconds or so to get an rpm figure.

For break-in props I typically use larger than normal props that are cut down to smaller than normal size. I think I read about this in a Higley book 30 years ago or somewhere anyway that is what I use. I have a few already cut down. The reason I used this 11x7.5 initially is beacuse Flyboy Dave suggested it as a benchmark prop.

An anecdote to the video: I connected the glow plug clip and then tried to get my lowest idle. I later learned that I had switched off the glow plug power at the control panel so in effect I had actually attached a glow plug heat sink!

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/23/2008 9:09:59 PM   
daven



Posts: 6762
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		I started tearing mine down this afternoon. That stuff is gunky, a can of brake cleaner got most of it off. Still can't get the crank out or sleeve out. I'll let it soak in acetone for a while, and if that doesn't work, its going in the oven.

Interesting motor. Those straight slot bolts really suck

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/23/2008 10:37:39 PM   
Kmot



Posts: 7708
Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: online 		At least they weren't soft Phillips head!

Okay fella's, I got another 15 minutes on it today. A 10 minute run, full cool down, and then a 5 minute run. Then it started to rain agian.

I used a cut down Zinger 13x6, cut down to 11. I got a peak of 11,250 rpm at WOT, and after the last run was completed I got a steady 2400 idle with glow heat applied. I think this plug is about done for because it won't idle very well without heat.

There is still lots of dark oil coming out the exhaust, so it's definitely wearing in.

It used half of this tank in 10 minutes at best lean power. It used the other half in 5 minutes with it richened up to a 500 rpm drop.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/23/2008 11:34:52 PM   
Kmot



Posts: 7708
Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: online 		Video of the 2nd run. If you watch, listen carefully. I hear something, above the exhaust sound, sort of like 'rattling' or 'crackling'. I have never heard this before in any of my engines. Is this the detonation I have seen referred to at times?

Click here to watch Russian-MAC-10cc-Part-2

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/24/2008 12:54:24 AM   
daven



Posts: 6762
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		That does not sound like detonation to me, sounds like something else vibrating, not the motor?? Maybe your muffler, test stand, or saw horse??

I just got my sleeve out (after burning my pinky on the hot engine case), I see the piston has a relief on the skirt on one side and I'm not sure if that was towards the front, rear, or side?? Do you remember, or did you mark yours?

Running 80/20 fuel will give you a pretty dark exhaust due to all the castor.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/24/2008 1:02:57 AM   
Kmot



Posts: 7708
Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: online 		The cutout goes toward the front of the engine.

I'm glad it's not detonation. I have never heard it in a model airplane engine. Only in full size car engines.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/24/2008 1:42:25 AM   
w8ye



Posts: 17299
Joined: 12/11/2001
From: Taylortown, OH, USA
Status: offline 		It's not exactly smooth running by comparison today's engines.

It sounds like a OS 91FX with a 61 exhaust on it.

What does it sound like with no exhaust

< Message edited by w8ye -- 2/24/2008 2:30:40 AM >

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/24/2008 2:27:39 AM   
BlackB12


 

Posts: 374
Joined: 9/22/2004
From: lancaster, PA, USA
Status: offline 		I got my sleeve out by sticking a popsicle stick in the exhaust port with the piston at BDC, then turned the crank until the piston pinched the stick and popped the sleeve loose. The crank came out after heating the engine, bearings also. It's amazing how smoothly it all went back together once I got all the preservative off. Feels nice and tight. I have a 10cc tuned pipe a club member gave me so I'll try that first before buying a new pipe. IT's off an old OS 61. I just need a header pipe.

Mike

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/24/2008 3:07:32 AM   
daven



Posts: 6762
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Mine was kinda a bear. Heat got the sleeve out, but I still haven't been able to get the rear bearing off the crank. I did get both bearings to freed up from the gunk in them with Brake cleaner, acetone, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Will try to reheat tomorrow to get the rear bear off.

Then a reclean, oil, and reassembly. I did find some aluminum shavings inside, so I'm glad I took it completely apart.

Took some time to get the barrel screw in the right position so that the barrel carb opened and closed completely.

Looking forward to firing this baby up, interesting motor.

KMOT, what size metric thread is this for the spinner nut?

< Message edited by daven -- 2/24/2008 3:08:19 AM >

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/24/2008 3:09:02 AM   
daven



Posts: 6762
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		If you remove the head, you will be able to tell if it is detonating. You will see a very dark surface with moon craters in the aluminum

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/24/2008 3:55:30 AM   
Kmot



Posts: 7708
Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: online 		Dave, I used a battery post puller to get the rear bearing off. The crank thread is 8mm. But I will have to check it with a pitch gauge to let you know what that is.

quote:

What does it sound like with no exhaust

Loud?

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/24/2008 5:26:02 PM   
DarZeelon



Posts: 6968
Joined: 4/9/2003
From: Rosh-Ha'Ayin, ISRAEL
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: daven

...Heat got the sleeve out, but I still haven't been able to get the rear bearing off the crank. I did get both bearings to freed up from the gunk in them with Brake cleaner, acetone, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Will try to reheat tomorrow to get the rear bear off.



Dave N, Tom,


Having the crankshaft come out with the rear bearing on it is, in nearly all cases, a user error.

Heat must be applied to the crankcase, only after the crankshaft is already out.

... After removing the prop-driver from the front of the crankshaft (and of-course the piston, sleeve, Etc.) and with the crankcase still cold, pushing back on the front of the crankshaft will get it out (unless the fit is wrong).

The 'grip' of the rear bearing's inner race on the crankshaft is much weaker than the grip of the cold crankcase on the rear bearing's outer race, so the crankshaft should slide out and leave the bearing inside.

Only then must heat be applied to the crankcase, to cause the bearing to release and fall out, through heat expansion coefficient differential.


The application of heat early on, heating the similar steels of the bearing and the crankshaft... There will not be any relative expansion of the bearing's inner race, compared to the crankshaft... The bearing will not release from the crankshaft due to the heat!
Only the crankcase expands more and the crankshaft + bearing assembly will go out as one piece...


The easiest way to remove the rear bearing from the crankshaft is... ...to reassemble it in the crankcase.
Reheat the crankcase; drop the crankshaft + bearing assembly all the way home; cool the whole assembly in the freezer (this will cause the aluminium crankcase to grip the rear bearing's outer race even more strongly.
It will not change the strength of the inner race's grip on the crankshaft, since both will cool and contract the same amount.

Now, push the crankshaft back and out. The rear bearing will remain in the crankcase.


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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/24/2008 8:56:00 PM   
Kmot



Posts: 7708
Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: online 		LOL, okay Dar.

I used an arbor press on a cold crankcase and the crank came out with the bearing attached.

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