RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price!  
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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 4:21:55 AM   
Harry Lagman


 

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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Kmot

BTW, and FWIW, there was no crackling sound the first time I ran this engine. I didn't hear it, didn't think about it. The second time there was. I hear it, and thought about it. The only difference being, the prop. I wonder if it is just different prop noise?



Kmot,I think you've nailed it. Correct me if I'm wrong but the first (quiet) prop was made of glass filled nylon (or similar) and the second one was wooden. I have heard wooden props effectively amplify mechanical noise relative to "plastic" type props. I heard an OS Surpass the other day that sounded downright scary with a 13 x 8 wooden prop yet with an MA/APC type 13 x 8 prop, it was very quiet. RPM and thus load were very similar.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 4:58:05 AM   
daven



Posts: 6909
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Finally got everything "de-gunked", took a while.

Couldn't find a 11x6 in the prop drawer, will break in with a 10x8.

Motor turns over very nice, lots of compression, and the bearings appear to be working well. Carb is still a little tight, but should loosen up with use. Kept the standard straight slot bolts to keep it "Russian" looking.

Highly oiled here with MM air tool oil. Going to mount into my test stand, and hope to get out to the field before it warms up and gets crowded. The motor inside is a little rough, it may need some serious break in.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 5:56:34 AM   
Kmot



Posts: 7740
Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Lookin' good Dave!

Hey, check this site out:

http://ruwatches.com/thestore/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=38&osCsid=81e004de58be2367f0800ee7d06372ab

Has a photo with a partial view of the factory instruction manual, plus what the tuned pipe looks like.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 6:08:18 AM   
DarZeelon



Posts: 7101
Joined: 4/9/2003
From: Rosh-Ha'Ayin, ISRAEL
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: DarZeelon

... After removing the prop-driver from the front of the crankshaft (and of-course the piston, sleeve, Etc.) and with the crankcase still cold, pushing back on the front of the crankshaft will get it out (unless the fit is wrong).



quote:

ORIGINAL: Kmot

I used an arbor press on a cold crankcase and the crank came out with the bearing attached.



Tom,


Please note the underlined, bold clause in my quote.

If this was the case, you obviously could not help it, except, maybe, deep-freezing the crankcase before applying that arbor press...


This tolerance issue is not unique to MDS (МДС)... In a MAN engine review for the K&B 6.5, circa 1979-1980, by Harry Higley (or was it Peter Chinn...), it was found that the rear bearing was very loose in the crankcase - so loose, in fact, that it had spun...

That K&B did produce very high performance for its day.


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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 6:18:01 AM   
Kmot



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From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Dar, what font do you use for the Russian letter D?

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 6:30:53 AM   
DarZeelon



Posts: 7101
Joined: 4/9/2003
From: Rosh-Ha'Ayin, ISRAEL
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quote:

ORIGINAL: daven

I had to heat the case to get the CRANK out...



Dave,


Why???

That cannot be!

Did the crankshaft spin freely in its bearings and in the crankcase, or was it held very tightly...

There is no physical contact between the crankcase and the crankshaft in a ball bearing engine.


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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 6:33:48 AM   
DarZeelon



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From: Rosh-Ha'Ayin, ISRAEL
Status: online 		Tom,


I'll send you a PM, regarding the fonts.


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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 6:41:17 AM   
Kmot



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From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Д Found it!

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 6:42:36 AM   
Kmot



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Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Oh, I just saw I had a PM notice. I was busy searching my character map!

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 6:48:19 AM   
Kmot



Posts: 7740
Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I 'think' what is going on, is these engines have sat in this tenacious cosmolene witches brew for 17+ years. That and a tight tolernace anyway, makes the rear bearing stick to the crank and get pulled out with it.

FWIW, I polished the journals on the crankshaft where the bearings ride. The rear bearing, after everything was scrubbed clean and the journal polished, would not just 'slip' onto the crank. It had to be pushed hard to be seated all the way to the rear. The bearing then would not just fall into the front case, the case had to be heated to install it.

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 6:58:53 AM   
Kmot



Posts: 7740
Joined: 6/11/2003
From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: offline 		МДС 10 цц КРУ

heh-heh...

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 7:18:45 AM   
samtech



Posts: 194
Joined: 12/21/2006
From: Elk Grove, CA, USA
Status: offline 		.... I still haven't got the crank out of the bearings or the case yet..... Cosmoline everyware but there is some sort of adhesive between the outer race and the case. Theres just a little that I can get to on the edge of the case where the outer race is pushed in... Anybody else seen this yet? It's very sticky stuff, unmistakable for anything other than adhesive. I've NEVER seen bearings glued in before. Have any of you? DAR???

< Message edited by samtech -- 2/25/2008 7:19:43 AM >

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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 7:31:43 AM   
DarZeelon



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From: Rosh-Ha'Ayin, ISRAEL
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quote:

ORIGINAL: samtech

...I've NEVER seen bearings glued in before. Have any of you? DAR???



Sorry, Sam.

I never did.


When the fit of the bearings is set right, there is no need for any substitution for it...


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RE: Hi Perf Russian 10cc at a bargain price! - 2/25/2008 12:45:34 PM   
daven



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Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Samtech,

Mine was the same way. It was gunked up solid, I tapped the crank from the front lightly with a block of wood and didn't feel comfortable tapping it any harder to remove it. I soaked it over night in acetone, dried it off thoroughly, and then had to put in an oven at 300 degrees for 20 minutes before I could tap it free.

At that point, the bearing was stuck to the rear of the crank. Did the same process over (soaked in acetone, and then heated) to remove the bearing from the crank.

Took a good amount of brake cleaner to get all the gunk out of the bearings, but they are working nicely now. Reseated them with heat, and this thing is ready to run.

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