Posts: 2055
Joined: 2/22/2004 From: Tulsa,
OK, USA Status: offline
The engine comes out very easily and the mount will come out too... you just have to say a prayer and hold you tongue just right . I built the cowl with a 1/16" gap to the spinner to keep a very sleek look.
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Originator of the Web Crawlers Association WCA# 0001 AMA # 880471
Posts: 571
Joined: 4/10/2007 From: Lancaster,
WI, USA Status: offline
Good job-The plane looks way better than standard. You might want to cut a small weep hole for oil on the bottom unless I missed it-"I didn't say Saitos leaked"
Posts: 2055
Joined: 2/22/2004 From: Tulsa,
OK, USA Status: offline
I still need to drill for the crank case vent line out the bottom, I will do so once I have finished shape-sanding. I redesigned much of the 4 stars outline to make it sporty-er and I have dubbed it the "Sport-Star 40" as I took some cues from the GP Super Sportster. Once fully built I will start a thread telling and showing exactly what was changed.
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Originator of the Web Crawlers Association WCA# 0001 AMA # 880471
Posts: 92
Joined: 7/17/2004 From: Cape Town, , SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
Great looking cowl. Not quite at that stage yet but not too far away either.
I drilled the wing blocks last night. I held the wing in position with a piece of 3/8" tri stock CA'd to the fuz and underside of wing. Increased the hole size in increments of 1mm from a pilot hole of 1.5mm. Took the wing off after completing the 6mm hole and sanded away the CA remains. I am using brass threaded inserts instead of tapping the mounting block so I drilled the after taking off the wing I drilled the 6mm holes out to 8mm.... and one of the wing blocks split along the grain. I will try and replace the wing blocks tonight without too much surgery, possibly using 6mm birch plywood instead of spruce.
Andrew
< Message edited by carrot -- 2/19/2008 5:00:46 AM >
Posts: 440
Joined: 4/11/2006 From: Carrollton,
VA, USA Status: online
Carrot,
I'd be a little concerned with using threaded inserts for the wing bolts, you may want to consider using a little bit thicker plywood plate and tapping it with a 1/4x20 tap so you can use 1/4x20 plastic bolts to hold the wing on. the one thing to remember is to coat the threads in the plate with thin CA and run the tap through afterwards to clean out the excess glue. I did this with my Kaos and it works just fine.
Posts: 92
Joined: 7/17/2004 From: Cape Town, , SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
Some pictures of the plane to date. Wings are held on with rubber bands while the glue for the Mk III wing mounting blocks dries. Other pictures show the left and right wing saddle to wing join and the sheeted turtle deck.
I think the flash makes the glue marks more prominent than they actually are 'coz on the actual model they are hardly noticable, I know, I know that is no excuse for sanding, and sanding and sanding.
The next step will be to drill and tap the mounting blocks. I found that with the hole being not perpendicular to the mounting surface, when the brass insert was screwed in it would twist out of alighnment and jam. Anybody else experience this? Anyway at this point I have the opportunity to do either. Suggestions are welcome.
Dave, where are the pictures you promised to post of your 4*?
Posts: 57
Joined: 1/4/2007 From: Mukwonago,
WI, USA Status: offline
Thank you for the reminder Andrewmc, tonight I will take some photos. I am also going to re-start my servo tray build.
I had one almost finished (made of basswood) but part of it cracked when I was making the on/off switch cutout. I am now going to use a layer of a piece of left-over red oak plywood.
To keep the weight down, I will just use the outer layer of the oak. The final tray will be about 1/8" thick compared to the 1/2" or so total width of the ply.
Posts: 92
Joined: 7/17/2004 From: Cape Town, , SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
I made my servo tray out of 1/8" birch plywood and mounted it on two hardwood, tri-stock rails. I am also going to put some balsa 1/4" on the underside of the tray to pick up the ends of the servo mounting screws.
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Joined: 1/4/2007 From: Mukwonago,
WI, USA Status: offline
Here you go guys, the photos are of my throttle set-up as the fuel tank plumbing.
The hole through the engine mount is large enough for the solder clevis to clear; the throttle arm is shown at WOT (wide open throttle).
I have a question on the kit itself-where in the world do you mount the APG die cut piece? I can't find this in the manual anywhere. Please include what step/page this is mentioned.
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Joined: 4/10/2007 From: Lancaster,
WI, USA Status: offline
I believe the APG is used for Aileron Position Guide-Read the manual on how to use it. The hole in the mount for the throttle ? did it weaken the mount.